m12aak

https://www.supraforums.com/threads/how-to-use-rhd-power-folding-mirrors-on-a-lhd-vehicle.895634/ This guide shows how the mirror comes apart; I'd split them and remove the gasket before paint. I've not done it myself, but it looks pretty straightforward . Can't help re. the glass or the bonnet latch unfortunately!

Keron (Extreme Performance) had a few OEM sets available a few weeks ago. I'd get in touch with him and see if he's got any left, if you haven't already.

PM sent

They look like they could be Volk Racing GT-N's?

I've never used one myself, but given that new OEM ones are £150+ it's worth a punt in my eyes. Have you got a link for it? I've done a quick search and can't find anything.

Here you go: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1997,supra,3.0l+l6+turbocharged,1317563,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+condenser,6708 Looks like they're back in stock again too

I'm on Michelin Pilot Sport 4's also in OE 17 inch sizes and they're brilliant, but it would be 4S if we got them in smaller sizes like the US do. Bridgestone have a new tyre out that is offered in a wide range of 18 inch sizes that is on par with a Michelin Pilot Sport 4S, called the Potenza Sport. I think i'm going to get a set of those for the TT6 when I get around to fitting my TE's. I watch the Tyre Reviews channel and they seem to be a great option for those who want a UUHP tyre in 17/18 inch sizes, so that might be worth considering. Below is a great video where all of the top UHP and UUHP tyres are tested against one another.

Great work so far, I'd personally go full OE aero (skirts, spats, roof and hatch wings) or a RIDOX wide body with the full carbon under panels. In any instance it'll be the best condition she's probably been in since import! Also I'd make sure to replace all of the old hoses, lines, radiator etc. (in addition to a full service – which I'm sure is on the cards anyway); the last thing you want is for a silly problem like that rearing it's head in the future. As Peter said, keep the updates coming!

FYI RockAuto have just had some more condensers in, I've ordered a couple.

Yeah definitely, otherwise you'd regret you didn't when it's all done and the rest of the car is brand new!

Nice one, yeah I've seen good reviews about raptor too, I'm sure it'll be great as you've had the chance to strip all the old stuff and apply it to a clean slate . Have you cavity waxed it yet? I've recently done the sills of the TT6 with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50; obviously I have no clue how good it'll actually be, but it's very well reviewed too.

Can't go wrong with The Streets! Great amount of progress already, she'll be incredible once finished. Which underseal did you use?

No worries mate, can't really help with the other stuff unfortunately. You thought about getting new OE lights for your TT6 and putting the TT6 lights on the GZ? 2 for 1 upgrade in my eyes, that's what I am going to do to replace my pre-facelift set on the NA.

Unfortunately, I don't think any of the vvti facelift JDM cars ever came with cruise (I may be wrong though). I believe the 97/98 US spec ones did (but i'm sure that'll be very expensive, if you can find one). IMO, your best bet is to get an IS200/IS300 wheel with cruise control (the pre-facelift switch is much bulkier and won't fit in the 3 spoke) and get an OEM facelift Toyota 3 spoke and combine them instead, or vice versa, get a Toyota airbag and combine it with the IS wheel. Late model ST2xx Celica's, RAV4's and a few other JDM Toyotas between 1997 and 2000 (ish) all use the Supra 3 spoke. I managed to find one last year advertised as a Celica wheel, and it had perforated leather at 9 & 3. I plan on combining them and keeping the spare to send away to get refurbished/modified to look like the Carbon optional wheel (in the distant future). The only issue is that I have no idea if my car has the wiring for cruise control in the first place (not checked yet), but I digress.

100%, when my NA should be on full defrost, a fair amount of air still comes out of the driver's vents, presumably due to the deteriorated foam, so it is something that i'd do if my HVAC is ever out of the car (let's hope that will be by choice, not necessity!). You've got an Incredible eye for detail, when you get her finished it will be as if it rolled off the production line, if not better!

The condenser Rider is mentioning here is the OEM condenser and is essentially the only item you should really fit (no idea if there are other aftermarket options). Some US websites probably have a few left from this recent low quantity restock, but as Rider said, they aren't as cheap as they once were. I think I'm going to buy a couple when the next restock comes (if it does, fingers crossed) through RockAuto.

That steering wheel is ultimate goals, even better than the TRD imo, that looks incredible!

Yeah, true, I haven't really thought about it like that. Let's hope the "influx" of RHD Supra's to the US will keep the demand for them going!

I'm hoping this lack of stock is just COVID catching up with production/shipping; I'm tempted to buy a couple just for the future but I'd rather hold out until the prices drop back down to a more reasonable amount (I have no reason to believe either of mine are bad yet). I saw RockAuto had one and it worked out to be £162 shipped to the UK, but that soon was sold.

A few of the OG Japanese brands (Voltex, SARD etc.) have A80 specific mounting adapters for their GT wings to fit the OE holes (see links below), and I think the grams one uses the OE holes too. RHD Japan Nengun

Very interesting indeed! Although I wonder if this engine (if built) would find it's way into cars in the UK, considering the poor sales performance of the RC F/GS F. I am not in a position to afford one of those cars, but I am surprised that they sold so poorly, I would have considered one if I was in the market for a car of that class etc. How Many Left says there are only 60 GS F's registered, with a further two SORN . I recall Clarkson featuring one on the Grand Tour and praising it, would have thought it'd boost sales!

PM sent

As @TRD-1 mentioned, I think there's something wrong with your interior temp sensor, as the face flashing is a fault with the room temperature circuit, which is behind the little grille to the top right of your 12v socket as @Ric said. The service manual says it should be 1.6-1.8k of resistance at 25c. The defrost/heater one isn't an issue as that's the solar sensor, but your fresh air light flashing indicates that you did (and maybe still do) have low A/C refrigerant. I'd look at the interior temp sensor first though.

To echo what the other two are saying, I reckon it's also vacuum related. The wiring/connection to my vacuum sensor is a bit iffy at times, when i'd accidentally knocked it before it did have similar symptoms, i.e. it was hunting on idle, very low idle, and it died once (but I just tightened the connection before I drove off, so idk if it'd stall out at a junction etc.), so you might just want to check that's connected properly.

Get some soapy water in a spray bottle and spray it on the circlip join, if you see bubbles (might need to blip the engine it whilst it's idling to build a bit of boost) it's leaking.