m12aak

Yeah, don't know if a CD astra saloon is something to boast about Think it must have been a MK3 as I think this was from 1993, but it was a nice surprise for sure.

I saw a clip of this on twitter a couple days ago too, ended up binging a couple of episodes, hilarious how things have changed (and haven't), I can believe how much power an 'i' badge gave you!

No worries, Toyota and BMW are the same thing nowadays anyway . I bought some exactly like that but I ordered enough for both cars, about £15 for 60 which is a great price, hopefully they stand the test of time! I plan on getting new liners and retainers for my TT6 soon (while they’re still available), so I have a spare set of everything for the future. Worst case, I’ll send the old hardware away to be re zinc-plated

Great idea! Much nicer than £2 a shot. I'll get some ordered to swap out my old hardware. Cheers

No problem – the measurements are: Point to washer – 17mm (this doesn't really matter, as long as it is long enough to go through the bumper and liner and through the retainer) Thread diameter – 4.9mm Washer diameter – 15.75mm When you do get some new screws, please update the thread and let me know where you got them from , I'd be interested in replacing mine.

There's a guy on the facebook group for this forum who has a whole wheel for sale for €170: https://www.facebook.com/commerce/listing/3921144587975008/?ref=share_attachment

Yeah I think it is that one, can't remember the part number but go with whatever the part diag says as there's likely to be slightly different ones. I'd try Keron and see if he has some laying about used/new.

The photos were for Phil to show him what it should be like, but you are right - I do need to get some new bolts!

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Here you go:

No worries, glad to hear it was something simple and easy to access, much better than chasing a broken wire. Good luck with rewinding the cable; yeah - the weather has been a bit bipolar recently, fortunately it's now sunny and clear (albeit still chilly) in Leicester.

Hi, please see the photos below, the retainer goes around the liner and it is also the thread for the bolt/screw, so just having the retainers should be fine, providing there is enough liner left for it to clamp onto. You'll have to excuse the condition of the bumper, all the years of rusty hardware haven't been kind to the paint (it's on the long list of things to sort!)

Ah okay that's a bit of a shame, I guess it must have been caught by something in the past and ripped out, I'll take some photos tomorrow. If the car is a long term keeper, I'd consider just getting new liners (while you still can!). I suspect if you had the retainers it'd still be find even with the c-shaped holes as it'd be sandwiched between the bolt and the bumper edge, but I'll confirm this tomorrow with the photos

Also, if it's the arch liners that are damaged so it won't fit properly, I'm pretty sure they're available new too (about £40 each on Amayama from Japan (exc. shipping etc.) so probably £60ish here from Toyota?)

Yeah iirc there are retaining clips there that the bolt screws into, I'd ask Keron if he has any, and if not get some from Toyota, probably be a few quid if that. If you'd like I can take a photo of how it attaches on my car tomorrow morning?

I've always just used some WD-40 on the spline once the bolt is off and *gentle* persuasion to remove the wiper arms, but iirc i didn't need any WD-40 when I took mine off. The fascia/scuttle is attached by 4/5 Phillips screws on the 'grate/mesh' area, two plastic clips which just pull out at either side (near the bonnet hinges) and then 12 (I think) clips under the rubber seal that runs along on top of the bulkhead (that seals against the bonnet when it's closed). The clips under the rubber are actually though the rubber (so the head is in the rubber seal itself) and I found them to be very hard to remove without breaking some along the way.

No problem! I'm not sure if it's the same on a Supra, but my dad's Mazda had the same issue (fuse fine, motor fine, passenger window wouldn't work) and it ended up being the switch, as the passenger lockout button in the drivers side switch was bad. You could try unplugging the switch and using your multi tester to check that the wires are unbroken from the switch to the motors and go from there. If I had to guess, my money would be on something being wrong with the switch, rather than the wiring.

Yeah, that 30A DOOR fuse in the driver's kick panel should be the correct one, although if only the passenger side window doesn't work it's likely to be an issue with the window switch(es) themselves, or something other than that fuse. If the DOOR fuse is broken, things like the power door locks also wouldn't work. Good luck! Here are the fuse locations (if you need them): https://fuse-box.info/toyota/toyota-supra-a80-1995-1998-fuses

Great video mate, I've not personally had this issue yet, but now I know what it could be if it does happen! You've also reminded me that I've not checked the torque of any of my suspension bits/subframes for over a year now, might as well add it to list of jobs to tackle this BH weekend!

This is a great video, really interesting to see how the prices changed over time over the pond and it is very well presented/structured.

Ah okay, that makes more sense. Thought 32.5% of the purchase price seemed a bit steep!

Not sure if anyone else realised the auction was over the weekend (it just popped into my head this morning that it was last week), but this ended up going for £47,250 according to the site (presumably this doesn't include the extra fees + VAT, which'll take it to £62,606.25 by my calculation). https://www.silverstoneauctions.com/sa073-lot-426-1993-toyota-supra-twin-turbo-manual

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What a joke , fingers crossed nothing happens to the price of the facelift lights

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