m12aak

Here you go mate, should be these: I've noticed that Toyota like to give you clues on other part diags, so the throttle body (fuel injection) diag tells you exactly which ones from the coolant diagram you need! Ignore the highlighted 'A' ones, unless you want to get clips too (probably not necessary IMO, I think every spring clip I've taken off my car has been perfectly fine and work properly!)

My Toad alarm on the NA failed in late 2020 too (it was fitted in 2003); it basically wouldn't respond to the keyfobs anymore and if it did it was very temperamental about if it wanted to disengage the immobiliser or not. I paid a company to fit a Cobra one to match the one in the other car (and it has been perfect since, knock on wood!) Your symptoms do sound slightly different to mine as mine always started when the light went off, but they're probably right, as long as everything else is all good (keyfob battery, fuses etc.) Maybe you could jump the starter motor and get it going that way (if the immobiliser will let you)? I probably wouldn't go beyond that though, better to be safe than sorry IMO. Alternatively, you could have someone come out to the car and sort it (that's what I did, while I was WFH). I used https://www.autodefence.co.uk, and it was £420 fitted for a Cobra 4138 and a tilt sensor and I had/have nothing bad to say about the whole experience, so I'd recommend it personally (granted, it costs more to have them come to you). Anyways, hope you get it sorted soon, I despise alarm issues!

The later model MK6 Celica/RAV4 airbag steering wheel is the same as the facelift Supra one, and the MK7 Celica/MR2 airbag wheels also fit but aren't quite period correct (if you care about that). The MK6 Celica/RAV4 wheels are getting rare to find now, but it's not impossible, finding someone breaking one for parts is probably the best bet. All you need to fit those later wheels is this harness: 09082-00760, if your car is pre-facelift/not a full facelift VVTi. I believe Keron keeps them on the shelf or could order you one in for cheaper than the dealer if you're after one. I think if you went to the dealer and asked for a new OE airbag wheel they'd charge you four figures minimum lol. Ask Keron to see if he has any too, if you're fine with an OE pre-face 4 spoke he may have one lying about.

Thanks! Although I wouldn't really consider it to be a collection, that's the extent of it lol, but I appreciate it . It's a shame Elephant won't consider the car, but yeah as others have said a more specialist insurer should sort you out and hopefully won't charge an arm and a leg. Ah I see, at least you have something to base if off at a comparison site level when you go looking for other quotes. I didn't know about the FCA making that compulsory, meaning the overall prices have gone up, cheeky bast*rds! Thanks for the info!

I'm insured through Elephant Multicar (the N/A and a Mazda Premacy), it's £610 for the N/A (catback, TT brakes F+R, Bilsteins/Eibachs, Aftermarket Alloys). I'm 22 with 4 years no claims. Have you tried Elephant/Admiral direct at all? They were the only ones to give me a reasonable quote back in my first year with the car at the age of 19 (it was still £3k though), although I have no experience of what they do when the car's NA-T etc. Every renewal I've had has decreased a fair amount, but then again I'm only lightly modified. I'm not insured on the TT6 at the moment as it's still bone stock (no desire to drive it yet, happy to just have it) so I just pay for my dad to be insured on it and drive it around for a fraction of the price. Iirc when I got the TT6 I ran some quotes at the time at (20 with 2 yrs no claims) and it was £3k lol, so I just left it and have since. The price of his insurance didn't change this year with an agreed value hike up to £47,500 (up from £31,000 last year) through Lancaster, so I doubt the value will be much of a factor as to why yours is much higher. If you've gained an extra year of claim free driving (and become a year older of course!) I hope there's no reason why you shouldn't be able to get a cheaper quote of at least a couple hundred quid. Is the £2,100 the renewal price from your current insurer? If so, I know some like to increase the price in the hope they can catch you out when it auto-renews.

PM sent

Apologies, wasn't aware of that! Just checked and the service manual I referenced earlier is for a USDM so that explains it.

Perhaps it might be an issue with the Fuel Pressure VSV? (this is not from my knowledge whatsoever, just what the GTE troubleshooting TSRM says!) Page EG-595 on the one I have saved.

It's 58804-14080, as tayr said, it looks to be discontinued in the facelift colour/finish. The pre-facelift is available and could be refinished maybe?

No worries mate , as above, that looks lovely. Brakes wise, I don't think you can go wrong with some OEM/OE spec discs (like Blueprint etc.) and some pads to suit whatever you're after, to begin with. Keron would also be able to advise/sort that for you too.

That would be amazing if you could, thanks! No worries at all if you can't find them though

Thanks, I can imagine yours must be nigh on spotless now, that's definitely the definitive method to clean it. I managed to buy a full (used) HVAC system with a used matrix still in it, so I plan to do what you've done (thanks in advance for documenting the process in your build thread!), by dismantling and cleaning it all, replacing the foam and swapping it for the one in the car... rinse and repeat until both are as good and new as they can be.

Thanks, yeah that makes sense, let's hope it holds on until I can replace it!

The water from the hosepipe wasn't really an issue as I just lifted the feed hose above the matrix and used gravity to remove it until the outlet was pure coolant. Also ~500ml of hosepipe water in a system full of good coolant probably won't be an issue, if you couldn't get it out.

I lifted the transfer pump off the bottom of the bucket so it wasn't sucking in the sediment, but yeah it was pumping through the dirty water with the speedflush in. The water did get progressively darker/muddier so I think it was working.

Bit of a thread revival, my matrix became basically useless over the past few months unless the car was fully warm (even then it was producing a measly amount of heat), so I carried out another flush as above. This time I decided to replace the return hose from the matrix as recommended by Keron as it was holding some of the sediment that would've found its way back to the matrix eventually. This was the result after reverse flushing from the hosepipe the matrix the first time, I can't believe how much rubbish there still is in the system! It was completely clear when I last did a flush only a few thousand miles ago. For the second round I used a 12v fuel transfer pump from Amazon and some near boiling water with the Holts Speedflush, which seemed to work very well. I just left it for 10/15 mins and it seemed to clear nearly all of the sediment. I was afraid it would have too high a flow and not be good for the matrix, but it was surprisingly weak, which was reassuring. After a final hosepipe flush and refill using Toyota pre-mixed red, the heater is now almost as good as the other Supra ; still it will mean I won't need to completely deice the windscreen myself every morning! I suspect I will need to do another flush as there's bound to be more rubbish in the system (the original radiator must still be acting as a trap for it), which I will wait to do when I fit the TT radiator from the other Supra, as that'll be getting a Koyorad when I replace the A/C Compressor, Condenser and Dryer on both cars. I still have no definitive answer as to how it got so full of sh*te, everything on the car cooling wise was OEM when I got it and the original rad seems to be totally fine, so I've just chalked it up to the coolant probably never being changed before me! I understand this isn't particularly interesting, but if you do take one thing from this, PLEASE CHANGE YOUR COOLANT REGULARLY!!!!!!!!!!!! lol

Yeah I agree with Annabella, facelift looks best IMO. Still, it's not hard to swap them over should you fancy a change, and they'll look lovely either way.

Merry Christmas

Sounds like a great plan, and yes it sounds like it'll turn out very cool, excited to see it when it's done!

Perhaps some copper grease/high temp anti seize would be best here? Castrol make one rated up to 1100c, called Molub-Alloy Paste TA (if you are buying this there are multiple variances with vastly different temperature ranges, TA is the one you want!). The cheapest I've found it is on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222914290098 Although, it is a tad weird that it is sticking like that, can water drain onto it in any way to make it seize, or perhaps it wasn't quite manufactured right? Either way if WD-40 fixed it in the past, high temp anti-sieze will probably sort it.

Great choice, I also have my heart set on Swisstrax when I get around to having a proper garage for the cars. I'm sure you've probably looked into how best to install it, but if you haven't Matt from Obsessed Garage in the US has a few great videos with useful tips/tricks, this is one of them:

The best/more cost effective solution is to buy the Denso equivalent part (as they make them for Toyota anyway!) I bought a pair of them new from RockAuto in the US, they worked out to £95 total, and you can pay VAT up front so there are no hidden fees (if you are going to buy from them use FedEx, they're the best). The Denso part number is 2341055. For some reason the part catalogue on RockAuto itself recommends a different one with a 4 pin connector (must be a US spec Supra thing), but the correct one for the JDM NA's with the single pin is 2341055. I'd also check to see if Keron (Extreme Performance) has any before you order (I can't remember if it's something he keeps on the shelf), as it looks like RockAuto only has one in stock at the moment. I'd recommend installing two new ones at the same time.

Hi, yes I believe it is for the right hand side OEM O2 sensor. By RHS I mean closest to the front, just re-read this and thought it sounded confusing!

My speedo is off by about 6mph at motorway speeds (75/76 is 70mph gps). As the tacho is front and centre I always just drive off revs, so 3200rpm indicated in 5th is 70mph gps. By 'reset' what do you mean exactly? Has the converter been recalibrated? I think getting another converter & having it properly calibrated should sort that out. It seems odd that at 30 it's 6mph off and not 12mph off at 60 (mine seems to scale with the speed), makes me think the converter is malfunctioning or some sort of scaling is wrong. Both of mine came with the converters already fitted and I haven't needed to touch them (long may that be the case!), so I have no idea how they're plumbed in or what converters have been used. They both use the OE kmh dials too.

Lovely to meet you mate, really appreciate the great hospitality! Hopefully speak to you/see you again in the near future! I gave Keron a bell as soon as we got back but he'd left early so I'll drop it off to him next week. A few bits are surplus to requirements, so I'll give them a clean/take some photos over the next week or so and create a separate sales thread for people to come and collect any bits they want for free/just pay postage. Thanks again!