m12aak

Iirc you were also looking for Confetti's right? I spotted a set on FB marketplace for £1k out of a Celica GT4 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/857613745163561

That's a fair point. My turbos are currently on 76k and show no signs of failure yet, and at stock power, I doubt they will with regular servicing. I do want to buy a spare set and have them rebuilt with metal turbine wheels, just for peace of mind, and so I can go through and replace all the VSV's and hoses at the same time – but that's only preventative. I believe the JDM Supra and Aristo turbos are both CT20's, but there are distinct differences so they're not a straight swap, where you'll need to use some of the Supra bits if they're Aristo items that you have. I've done a quick google and this thread mentions the wastegate actuator is different so that may be something you can use to confirm which ones you have? I remember speaking to Keron about turbo rebuilds and I'm pretty sure he mentioned Midland Turbo, but I'd get in touch with him to confirm.

Yeah I'd see if the switch operates the locks as Ric said, it could be the case that the new (used) module you put in also went bad. The one in my NA gets temperamental in the winter if I don't drive it for a few days, but after a drive or two and in weather above freezing I have no issues. Using the switch on the door to operate the locks instead of the fob always confirms that it's the module that's the issue, rather than my fob.

Welcome! Any photos? I believe in order to post a wanted ad, you'll need to go into the store tab and sign/pay up to be a member. My personal first port of call for bits is Keron at Extreme Performance (he's a trader on here), so I'd also get in touch with him to see if he has a roof spoiler.

Actually, I thought the Carbing rear brace also bolts into the 4 holes that the OE bracing uses? Maybe you've been sent the wrong one by accident? I don't know why this didn't occur to me when I saw your post yesterday!

I've just had a look and Keron's right but I think it's just the top plate that's different between LHD and RHD. In this US forum post, someone talks about how a (LHD) Denso 471-1205 fit their JDM Supra perfectly, but all they needed to do was swap over the RHD top plate, so I think you'll be fine as long as you still have your old plate.

There's play my shifter when in gear (I believe all the bushes are original and have 76k miles on them), but I've never had an issue with missing 5th or any other gear. Part of your linkage may be loose (check all the bolts are tight on the tripod etc.) and then go from there. As work has recently been done hopefully it's a simple fix, but from my experience it is not a normal problem.

From the sounds of it your engine will likely be fine then as it probably was only a change in materials used in the fuel system between 1995-96 as the engine ran to 1999, but it also depends how different a 1996+ P38's fuel delivery system is from your Classic in terms of materials. I must confess that I haven't read through your build thread, so apologies if the system is different from stock and is not a concern!

30k minimum IMO, but push for as high as they'll go. There is another red GZ (albeit with lower miles) up for £35k on PistonHeads. Given your full underside refresh I'd personally say that yours is worth very similar money, if not more.

That's rough. I know the feeling (got my NA at 18, insurance was £3000 the first year ). It's dropped to £600 now I'm 22 (21 when I got my last policy). Anyways, the only thing I can think of is for him to enter an annual policy and pay monthly, but they need the first couple months up front (I think), so it's probably only worth it if he got it now and paid for a few months or so during the rest of summer/autumn, and then cancelled it at a later date. I believe there is no issue with having two insurance policies on one car too, so I'd leave your current policy alone. Elephant have always given me decent prices on the NA, so I'd try a quote with them direct for your son (if you haven't already), and obviously add yourself/your spouse onto his quote etc. to bump the price down a bit. Fingers crossed you can find something reasonable, good luck!

What have you got that dissolves it? I don't need to do the job myself anytime soon (hopefully!), but I'm just curious because isn't that stuff like tiger seal? I had to remove some old tiger seal on some OE side skirts before I fit them and it took me hours!

https://www.driftworks.com/hkb-boss-toyota-13346.html I'd just get one of these, I didn't realise you could get a HKB one for so cheap tbf

Yeah I agree with you Swampy – I've just looked through the wiring part diags and it's only shown as being part of the main loom. Hopefully someone will have an old Aristo or maybe GE VVTi harness (assuming the protector's the same) laying about that they can sell you the protector from. I'd stick a post in the wanted ads and see.

Hi!

I've got an NA5 and a TT6. Ok cool – yeah sounds good, I'd be up for a meet or something like that.

I have a couple and I'm from Leicester, but I don't personally know of a lot around here (I know there are quite a few though). @keron knows most, if not all of them so he can probably provide an idea of how many are about.

I don't have one, but if I was in the market, I'd buy a Works Bell Rapfix II. They're not cheap but I've heard they're top quality, and they also offer the GTC which tilts up for access.

Indeed. Fortunately I took the plastic protector off and caught a very rusty fuel line before it sprung a leak. My brake line on the other hand looked to be in great condition considering the age/mileage. I've not checked the TT6 at all (it is on the list of things to do/check), so I believe that is also on the original pipes front to rear for brakes and fuel. It is in a much nicer condition underneath though, so I'd be surprised if anything needed to be changed.

Ah okay, cool. Thanks for the reply.

Looking good! Why was the RHS vent replaced for the display? Most I've seen replace the clock instead. Just curious, that's all.

I've used TCB also and had a great experience, but I use Keron 99% of the time as he's local and is always happy to help me out/answer any questions I have etc. (not to say others aren't too!) I WhatsApp/call him rather than email, but he's always got back to me and sorted any bits I needed. I have also used my local dealer (Farmer and Carlisle Leicester) for a couple of items in the past and had no issues with them either (also not via email though).

Try Keron for the OEM pads too, he's probably got some in stock and for cheaper than your local dealer.

Those are the alignment specs I use also. Iirc that's the 'Lance' alignment spec that a lot of people stateside use. I don't push my car particularly hard but it does feel decent and tyre wear is even. I don't think having any load on the suspension would make it any easier as the load is there just so the bushings are close to their general range of movement when it's tightened, and so the rubber isn't being twisted at normal ride height (please correct me if I am wrong!) So, my understanding is that the amount of torque to adjust them would be the same, regardless of load. I've got no idea if this matters with poly bushes though; as aren't the outer parts of the metal sleeves greased upon installation, so it wouldn't matter?

Quite often they won't come with the clips and nuts etc., if it shows the clips as a separate part number or it isn't a full assembly you'll have to buy them separate. The part diagrams that show multiple parts in a big box or connect multiple parts together (see the water pump diagram for an example) include all the items under the one part number. If I'm ever unsure I like to search the part number in google and see if there are any photos of the items as I know Amayama etc. don't have many. Obviously don't feel obligated to order all of the nuts/bolts OEM, as it can soon add up when they're just bog standard zinc plated items in normal sizes anyway, so they can be bought locally for cheaper. Suspension bolts etc. are a different kettle of fish IMO, I'd be buying OEM bolts for items such as that (if yours are in need of replacement).

Fair enough, I've just looked at that thread and they broke the stalk to get the spring off, so I wouldn't go any further either! I'm sure any decent bodyshop will be able to work around it and get a great finish now the glass and gasket are off anyway.