m12aak

Welcome! What modifications do you have to make the 247bhp? That's a healthy number for an N/A.

Yeah pretty quiet at the Tesco, bit busy getting here but that’s just the normal traffic

Yeah I arrived around 5:00 that’d be why, just getting fuel now

Just checked in at the Premier Inn, going to pop out now for fuel. What are people doing for dinner, is there a WhatsApp group chat?

Christ, that's a rotten bit of luck. At least you still have a full set of wheels so SRD can work their magic. Hopefully Driftworks will pull some strings (and throw their weight around if needed) to get another lip on the wheel ASAP.

Hi, is this still with Lancaster? Just wondering as the TT6 is also with them, so at least I now know they've accepted £50k for a UK TT6 and I can push for £40-45k etc. Apologies in advance if you've mentioned this already! EDIT: Sorry should have noticed you said 'renewal' Thanks for sharing the info, this will be helpful!

No worries, yeah the negative one will definitely need changing, they're the same size as the positive. You could probably use another positive clamp for that (not sure why there's no part number though, that is weird).

I'm not 100% sure about the process of fitting new clamps (but what you've said sounds right; cut off/desolder old, re-crimp/solder new). I believe the clamps may be available from Toyota if you wanted to go that route too. My TT6 which is a small clamp facelift like yours has a Yuasa 3000 YBX3053 and that works fine, even if left for a couple weeks off a tender. Bear in mind also that the battery hold down has two 'ears' that only fit the smaller battery (mine does anyway). My NA which has the larger terminals does not have this issue, so a pre-facelift hold down would also be needed (this is probably still available from Toyota too), if the battery dimensions are also going to be larger. I personally wouldn't mess about with the terminals unless something was wrong with them, but I can understand why you'd want to change them.

NOOOOOOOOOO MONICAAAAAAAAAA

Yeah I just googled '2jz-ge coolant flow diagram' and it was on a post from this forum. I've got some manuals saved but the ones I have are split into different systems (e.g. coolant, engine mechanical etc.), unlike this one which appears to be an extract from larger, thicker manual. I believe none of my manuals have this diagram for some reason.

No worries, you're right, ignore me! Don't know why I didn't just search for a coolant flow diagram in the first place:

That pipework looks fine to me, same as mine. I believe the connection between the two sides is hollow and that's why it's hot after there as it's just bypassing the matrix. I can't remember which side is in/out 100% but I think it's the other way round? When I did my water pump on the NA I thought my matrix re-clogged itself as it was cold, but I only had a massive air lock in there, as it fixed itself a few days after while I was parked nose down on a steep street (logically this doesn't make sense but it happened!) I now realise that when I re-bled the system after doing the water pump, I didn't have the heater on . When I initially flushed it a year earlier, loads of brown clay like sediment came out that the speedflush mentioned in Scooter's thread shifted. I suspect there's just a big airlock in there, but attempting a low pressure flush on each side wouldn't be a bad idea. I've got one of the lisle funnels that attach to the radiator and raise the highest point in the system. It's great and has always worked well for me, as it managed to bleed the matrix out after the initial flush, so that might be worth purchasing.

Hi, the part number is 93567-55016, but I wouldn't go to Toyota for 5 screws, they'd probably charge you a pound a screw! The measurements are: 10.7mm head size 18.4mm total length 15.3mm thread length 4.8mm thread/screw diameter (approx. mine is chewed up for some reason) It seems all of these types of screws fasten by being self tapped into a 'blank' plastic insert, so if you get some flanged No.10x5/8in self tappers (like this) they'll work the same as the OE screws whilst being 1/20th of the price. Hope this helps!

I think you've got a VVTi hose (that's what the part diagram I use says at least). I'd definitely return it for 17345-46040/17345-46050 if 40 is not available. I've not come across this difference before personally, but I suspect the difference between 40 and 50 is probably nothing, as 50 started for the facelift cars with the non-VVTi engines where no engine changes appear to have been made from the pre-facelift. 17345-46040 is 100% the number for your UK spec RHD car. The 90 being a post VVTi no. likely explains the difference.

Yeah I don't ever remember seeing anything in the TSRM either (I assume that's what you're referring to – not to say calling it BGB is wrong, I just haven't come across that before!) The line difference is likely to be the slight length difference between an old stretched belt and a new tight one. As long as it doesn't squeal/slip and the idler bearing itself is still quiet and smooth it should be perfectly fine. I never really gave it much thought when changing mine other than just checking the bearing was good.

That's a fair question, I have also wondered this but never looked into it. I'd imagine it has something to do with being a visual aid if the tensioner's still within spec or not, and being on the middle line is good?

Yes, the caliper and discs will work perfectly, but the metal dust shield behind will need trimming/bending out of the way to fit the larger items.

Oh right, I could have sworn that when I last checked on Amayama (last June I think? - I realise now that was a long time ago ) they were still available. Pretty sure they were about £30/40 per side, which is why I kept em. I've checked again and you're right, nowhere has them now, and Amayama shows them as being discontinued. Apologies if I was wrong and have provided a false hope. Fingers crossed they're just on backorder (some sites just say 'temporarily out of stock') so it's definitely worth checking. Have you posted a wanted ad on here and the FB group yet?

If Keron doesn't have any @mc92, the last time I checked (albeit last year), they were still available from Toyota for a reasonable price. My TT6 had them fitted from the dealer so I was checking how much they were worth before I decided to keep them for the NA. I've not fitted them yet but they definitely caught a decent amount of loose road filth when they were on the TT6.

I'd never seen a set before this either, I guess they've been hanging about because they only made them in 16's!

Agreed, I'd replace the crank pulley, timing belt, aux belt and WP all while you have access for the sake of a few hundred pounds. The condition of the pulleys on the PS and A/C look fine to me and probably wouldn't be an issue. It's up to you but if you're going through a mini restoration, a new A/C compressor, reconditioned/new PS pump and rebuilt Alternator may also be a smart idea, so you know everything is new/good when it's finished.

I saw this too (didn't think to share it here). I really enjoy watching their channel as it is a proper nerdy in-depth look into things, whereas most of the reviews nowadays go over the similar things I've heard before.

The Denso 4770589 (same as OEM) condenser can still be bought from the US through RockAuto (stock is somewhat spotty so set up a stock reminder). I bought a couple a few months ago and it worked out to approx £175 each with all the customs and postage paid. I haven't got around to fitting them yet but the part number is the same, so I have no concerns re. fitment, and a few others have bought the same and seemingly have had no issues. I also bought a couple seal kits from RockAuto at the same time (they're £5 per set).

I also received the link and booking from Mollies for the Saturday night, so I'm all booked for both days now too!

I'm in! I've booked the Premier Inn and just fired off an email to the hotel in Bristol to book that too.