m12aak

The Bilsteins are definitely stiffer than the OE KYB's etc., but likely some of variance in stiffness also comes from replacing 20+y/o tired shocks with new ones. I use the Bilstein equipped car 'daily' (still WFH most days now ), and although stiffer, I have never felt that they're too stiff. Even if you aren't a fan of them once installed, I'm sure they'll sell quickly if you wanted to revert back to stock (I may even be interested in a nearly new set!)

I would recommend getting a set of Bilstein B6's (I'm not sure how much they differ from the OE Bilstein's Rider mentioned) to pair with your lowering springs. I have a set with Eibach lowering springs and they're great. I'm not sure who sells them the cheapest (my set was used) but I think they'll set you back around £130 a shock. I'd recommend getting a new set of dust boots at the same time too (top mounts probably aren't necessary as the dust boot is the rubber isolator for the top mounts).

Thanks for the information!

Definitely no half measures being employed here! I don't even want to know how much it cost you, fair play indeed!

Because I'm a saddo I still have my card lol, the number on my url is 4827 but the no. on the card is 49208, but as Style said just make one up if they ask for one

I've just checked the service manuals I have saved and none of them mention the disassembly of the VVTi pulley unfortunately. If you can't find anything/no-one can help probably going for a 10 or so n/m and use of some blue medium strength thread locker will hopefully suffice. Do the bolts hold it all together? I've never disassembled one myself.

pm'd

I like the kit combo, could easily imagine seeing it in an old episode of Hot Version, it flows nicely and silver was a great choice!

I believe Keron @ Extreme Performance does them, but I'm not sure if he needs the car in order to do it or if he's happy to do it off photos/videos instead. I'd get in touch with him and see what he says.

Welcome! Always nice to hear of another person who has managed to purchase one (especially when it's their dream car!). Feel free to create a build thread to document the journey, I'd love to see it progress, as I'm sure everyone else on here would too. Best of luck with the build!

The wood sounds like a good idea to me as you can make the height to suit, and you could put a paving slab or similar underneath so it's not right on the gravel. I don't have any of the metal ramps (or made the wood ones either!), but the weedy appearance of the ramps have always put me off them.

My TT6 came with new ones installed by Keron, the invoice he supplied with the car listed them as £740 for the pair (not sure if that's his current price though as this was nearly 2 years ago, but I would imagine they're pretty much the same cost).

Hi, I'm not sure about the exhaust (I haven't changed either of the ones that came on mine and they are both unbranded), but I'm sure someone can chime in to help on that, but HKS is always highly rated. For the timing belt etc. I'd go to Keron as he's cheaper (and more helpful) than the local Toyota dealer. If you don't have any record of the water pump and crank pulley being changed in the car's lifetime/recently, I'd do this at the same time along with the timing belt idler, tensioner and accessory drive belt. Naturally, if the water pump is being done, I'd advise changing the coolant, thermostat and radiator hoses (including the one at the back of the head!) too.

Goodness , I'd be s***ing myself if it cut out on the motorway! Fingers crossed it gets sorted tomorrow.

That's just reminded me, I ordered some D21065/9730AC back in August and it hasn't turned up yet! Good thing you posted a follow up, thanks

Here are the pedals from my NA5, the accelerator (apart from the solid stopper instead of the kickdown switch) looks the same to me? The brake pedal seems to be a bit further away in the photo you attached as mine mounts more centrally than the other. The slight distance increase might make it harder to heel and toe downshift, but that's the only thing that I can spot at the moment. I unfortunately don't have a photo of the pedals in the TT6, but that also feels the exact same when heel and toeing, so I'm inclined to say it's the same setup on both.

PM sent re. HT leads (cap not reqd.)

Looks oily to me; underneath the distributor is a silver heat shield, have a look and it'll be easy to confirm if you've got a leak or not. It would also be leaking down under that, so over a bit of the water pump etc, leading down to the alternator. My general rule of thumb re. dirt is that if it's dry and dusty, it's just general grime, if its damp/sticky it's oil! Fortunately not a lot of oil leaks out of there, so you can drive the car in the meantime, just keep an eye on it/clean it off the alternator while you get the parts in (if it is the distributor seal).

Nice! Was the old one covered in oil? If so, make sure you check and if necessary, replace the distributor o-ring so this new alternator isn't sent to an early grave. It's a very easy thing to do, when I did it I followed this tutorial: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/performance-and-maintenance/174881-distributor-o-ring-replacement-write-up.html and the Service Manual when adjusting the timing with a timing light.

I have a spare OE u-nut, the bolt is M6x1.0 and the threaded part is approx. 13.5mm (this won't really matter though as you'd match the bolts to the corresponding u-nut you get. The u-nut height is 9.5mm (from top of u to bottom of the 'nut'), the length of the u-nut (longest side) is 27.5mm, and the gap of the 'u' is ~2.5mm.

I'd buy the wheel/airbag together from eBay/marketplace (iirc they're ~£40) and then go to your local Toyota/Lexus dealer or a trader like Keron for the sub-harness, I believe he keeps them in stock.

If you're struggling to find a Supra wheel just for the MOT, you can buy an XE10 IS200/IS300 airbag wheel and this sub-harness: 09082-00760 for the wiring, and it should fit/work perfectly too.

iirc it was £160, he's only 10 mins away from where I live so I just picked it up. I believe he also has cheaper ones but I bought a 100 amp TT auto one just because (it works fine on my NA manual that came with a lesser amperage alternator)

Do you have any warning lights on the dash? When mine failed, I had the low oil, battery and cat temp lights come on (along with the main central light obviously). Think alternators failing are getting more common with age, and fluids leaking on them (mine likely died as it looked like the distributor had been leaking oil on it for years). Even if you don't have all the lights on mentioned above, it probably is the alternator, considering the lack of charge. I got a new one from Keron a couple years ago, I believe it's something he keeps on the shelf. On early cars I believe the weep hole on the water pump has no rubber tube to route it past the alternator too, which can also send them to an early grave, so just double check that you aren't leaking any coolant while you're in there.

Not sure if you’ve found one yet or if this is the right one, but I just saw one in the ‘MKIV Supras and parts for sale’ group. Can’t share it directly for some reason though (I don’t know if I’m being thick or you just can’t in general). If you just search ‘hks dli’ it comes up.