Tricky-Ricky

No skilled! I haven't unintentionally stripped a thread, broke a bolt or had anything come undone in all that time.

I haven't used a torque wrench in the last thirty years for anything but rod or head bolts, my torque wrench is built in.

I made a lock tool with a piece of steel flat bar drilled for the bolts in the pulley, and cut out for the nut, braced on the ground like the breaker bar trick, and a breaker bar with a six foot scaffold bar, came undone no problem, same method to tighten.

Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator? if faulty it could be simply allowing fuel to return directly to the tank and not building any pressure. Maybe hook up a guage to test.

I'm sue I would, for the reasons I mention below. So it transpires that I was right;) and you do seem to have an attitude and feel you do know better, its sad that you have to resort to running down any contributions that I have made, yes if I think someone has things wrong or incorrect IMO I will say so, and in your case this is often. I hate it when people quote misinformation and always try and give advice to the best of my abilities, which some people seem to appreciate. From my experience you seem to have a problem with anyone who doubts or disagrees with you, anyway I don't need to go into a small novel to state my case, suffice to say that you will go on to post you comment's even if they are incorrect, and I will endeavor to correct them if necessary, and If can be bothered with the resulting bitching. Anyway feel free to continue with your character defamation, I also have a wife and if I needed this kind of discourse I would say the wrong thing to her. Apologies to Samurai 20V, I wont post on this thread again, but if you need any further help please PM me.

Ditto! its because to me you have the attitude of someone who always believes he knows better. You initially made a statement that a 10W40 oil would get past the rings, and then changed that to the valve stem seals, To which I replied that this was down to worn stem seals, and bad oil drainage from the follower wells, and that oil grade would have little impact, along with the fact that the oil Toyota specified was a 10W30, I still had the Toyota sticker on my cam cover, Now further to this in order for oil to build up enough to actually drain down the seals to any degree, that would introduce enough oil to impede starting, the level would have to be such that it reached the seal hight in the follower well, and if this did occur it would only effect those cylinders where the valve was open, and also due to the angle of the valves the oil would likely only reach the edge of the piston and drain down the rings. The reason worn valve stem seals show up most/smoke on start up is due to the amount of vacuum in the inlet and exhaust when running, and so pulls any oil from the follower wells through the worn seals, but this will usually only last for a short time until things warm up and seal better, unless the seals are very bad, in which case it will keep smoking. I would also disagree that just because the engine may be 15 years old or more that it need a thicker hot viscosity oil if it was in good condition, maybe if it had done extended mileage and there was evidence to suggest that it had bearing and bore wear, but otherwise all using higher viscosity oil will do is to add oil drag to the engine, and increase oil pressure/ or at least increase the work the oil pressure relief valve has to do to keep the pressure down, the std pump makes very good pressure anyway as it was designed to run 10W30 oil.

I am not sure why your so concerned with the short pipework idea, as if your thinking heat soak/contamination it will have little effect due to boundary layer effect, IE the moving airflow picks up very little heat due to the air speed and the very slow moving air at the boundary of the pipe surface that will in effect insulate, a lot of people get hung up over trying to insulate IC pipework from picking up heat, but it has very little effect once the engine is under load.

Worn valve stem seals cause this, should have no problems with good seals regardless of oil grade, a 5W40 would be more prone to this than a 10W40 simply because the cold viscosity is thinner, going past stem seals would also point to blocked drains as well as bad seals.

EMU has trouble with the resolution when going big on injectors, and its not good at lag, I think its not recommended to go larger than 850cc on injectors, as for map trace presuming you have the connection correct, and you have the throttle trace selected then I'm really not sure.

Go past what seals? I have never seen or had any problems with using a 10W40 the std recommended is 10W30, This chart will give an idea of just what temps oil will cope with.

When I have fitted body kits I usually secure them with Sikaflex 221 adhesive, and then blend in with fiberglass and/or body filler.

I wouldn't say that particularly bad, I was expecting it to take far longer by what you said previously, also if the ECU coolant temp sensor was faulty the AFRs would be showing rich and not lean. As for oil grade I wouldn't exspect to notice any difference between a 5W and 10W unless your seeing temps of -15-20, I would agree that a W60 would be way to thick, in fact I wouldn't be using a W50, 10W40 should be fine.

So water core only, tank yet to be built, seems rather big for a CC, kind of defeats the object, you could cool 6-800bhp with an air to air IC of that size, add the rad and you have taken quite a bit of space not to mention the extra weight. I stand by my original post then, smaller scale re positioned CC and rad.

I am having trouble trying to visualise it, unless that is the inner? as there seems to be nowhere for the airflow around the core if that's what it is, looks nothing like any other CC I have seen.

Only just seen this, and excuse me for asking daft questions but I cant see an inlet/outlet for the airflow? ii can see the water inlet/outlet but.... Also surly the design is not going to function as a air/water as there is no way for air to flow through it, no sure why its directly in front of the engine, as this would mean removing for access to belts/tensioners etc, it would also pic up radiant heat from the engine, and would also block airflow through the rad. Would you not be far better off downsizing it and fitting it in the original IC position, and fitting its remote rad on the opposite side, that way you could make the best of both air an water cooling but at the expense of longer pipe runs, I would have thought a filler cap design/position is pretty low down on the list, in the scale of things.

Fully charged battery, all plugs removed, pull the injector fuse, wedge throttle fully open, crank each cylinder the same number of times (at least 5) I think factory figures are anything over 140psi but I would expect more, can be done cold or hot, you may see slightly better figures hot, if any are low put in a teaspoon of oil in that cylinder and try the test again.

There are plenty of threads on the Skyline forum about BRs killing engines, basically because of the way the BR works it randomly sends grounding pulses to the coils/dizzy etc which results in firing both before and after the original correct firing time, so it can result in fuel igniting in the manifold or turbos, which wont do them any good, or worse causing pre ignition/knock, I wouldn't touch one if you paid me.

Good way to kill the std twins, they are really not worth it, known to cause engine failure.

I would say its an alignment problem, front or rear toe being out one way or other will cause that sort of effect.

I would guess they have an mechanical idle air bypass controlled by a needle vale, bit like a carb set up.

I think its because a lot of the aftermarket engines are used in period muscle car and hot rod builds, however they can easily be fitted with electronic ignition and fuel injectors.

I think your going to need a stand alone, as with most piggybacks you can't tweak things like IAT or idle air, so the existing ECU is going to throw faults if they are missing.

I was scratching my head wondering just what this had to do with a supra:p:D

Std or Mines ECU doe's not tune itself, it will learn short term fuelling and timing retard, along with idle, the rest is lambda controlled and hard map once out of closed loop, fuel and timing trim is accomplished pretty quickly as its designed to adjust to the fuel grade used, so if you put in lower octane it will trim timing advance until there is no knock.

I have run tinted fronts, but they where not as dark as those, never had any unwanted attention.