Tricky-Ricky

Yes unfortunately being a politician seems to appeal to self important show offs, who are too fond of the sound of their own voice......and we have to pay them to spout bullshite and run lucrative scams.

I despair at the attitudes displayed since the vote....can you imagine the position we would be in should something like WW2" ever happen again, the "younger robbed generation" would want paying top wages to help defend their country and freedom! Hang on. actually should a similar mustachioed corporal want to lead a united Europe they would probably be the first to volunteer!

LOL!new motto of the we didn't win brigade, Democracy rules.......but only when it suits us.

Amen to that! If only!

Yes but it could always be a case of frying pan--fire:innocent: I think the days are gone where we could except or even find someone with real integrity.

I pay less than £10 for 5lt concentrate blue from any motor factor...does exactly the same.

I think the only thing against Toyota red is the price They all have anti corrosive additive's, and pretty much all manufactures will claim their stuff is best.

Have a read here, http://blog.chiltondiy.com/2013/06/which-antifreeze-is-right-for-your-vehicle/ There are three main types of coolant, one doesn't mix, not sure on the Toyota stuff, I just drained it out and flushed the system anyway, as I am inclined to remove any sediment and refilled with std blue type which can be had for £10 for 5lt and can be diluted down to 75/25% but I tend to use 50/50% so considerably cheaper than the red for life with is just a long life version and eventually goes brown and leaves deposits.

I think the present government are scared stiff of leaving the EU because they will no longer have the big brother EU to blame all their shite policy and pricing on, after all it takes a small army of people to read and work out the mountain of constraining rules and regs of the EU directives we have to abide by, probably save a fortune in wages for the said army.

Apparently his metric spanners are kept in quarantine, and all his measuring is done in imperial.

Sorry fella, it was late, lol, It depends on which way the thermostat completes the circuit it could be NO or NC com is usually the feed, so looking at that the live from the supply should go to COM, however like I said I always thought that the switching should be on the neutral side rather than the live.

You should be using a relay in between the thermo switch and the power supply (battery) and the fan motor, I will see if I can knock up a quick diagram. Here you go this is how I would go about wiring it,

In the map fella, don't go for a bee r, the way it cuts ignition is not ideal.

No current contract, and yes they do tie you into an 18 month contract, they may not require you to continue on your current contract if changing, it wasn't a problem for me as I have had sky for the last 17 years, so unlikely to go elsewhere, as I cant get Virgin in my area, and don't like BT.

Just go multi room or sky Q and you can watch whatever you want, I have just gone Q and you basically get multi room plus UHD (not transmitted until August) and watch on tablets for £12 more than the std subscription.

I have heard it said that its used to smooth the auto gear change, however as I have never owned an auto I cant really comment, with my manual one of the first things I did was to pull the trac control relay, after experiencing the std traction control when trying to pull onto a busy roundabout, and being momentarily stranded in front of a truck, I followed this up with removing the butterfly and welding up the resulting holes, and throwing the TC ECU in the bin.

It wont hurt, and you need to do nothing, the TC butterfly gets removed as at rest its slightly off horizontal, and can be a small restriction, although generally not enough to worry about, so it mainly cosmetic.

As Chris says, could be that your wide band needs calibrating or is faulty, however, they have disconnected the std ECUs lambda because the std ECU is trying to negate the fuelling adjustments that have been input to the EMU, because its an N/A the std ECU is set to be in closed loop with lambda feedback for a lot longer/higher load/RPM that the equivalent turbo ECU would, which is I suspect the main problem, unfortunately I am not familiar with using the EMU on an N/A. It would depend a lot on the turbo you have and when it starts making boost, as obviously as soon as its making positive boost the fuelling and timing will need adjusting, and its this that's causing the problems, but I suspect that whoever is tuning it is not very familiar with boosted N/As and has tried to adjust things too much too soon, but in theory disabling the lambda feedback will help, but first they will need to let the std ECU adjust the fuelling so it will run slightly rich, which is the ECUs default for not detecting a lambda sensor, and then start to make adjustments to compensate, which is probably why its not gone weak.

Hope its a great day, have some fond memories of Biggin Hill, as I used to live just down the road at Leaves Green, which is literally at the end of the runway, spent many a childhood day sat at the end of the runway watching various planes, especially practice runs for the many air shows that used to be staged there.

I agree, definitely looks like engine oil to me, however how it got there I have no idea, surly a dip of the finger will confirm, and failing that the taste test.

Trouble is nobody is going to know for sure just why its running as it is, its all just an educated guess, as you say its could be down to a bad WG or boost controller and its not running anything like that boost, or even because the turbine design is just not making that much air flow, but in any case if your not driving it on boost, its really just a moot point as its all going to be changed very soon, you just need to hope the previous owner didn't rag it big time and you have already got det damage to rings/ring lands.

What turbo is it? sounds like its putting out similar airflow to the std twins to be run by the std ECU, I am guessing its a small turbo as the injectors will be on the small side to say the least. The transitional RPM/load will see the reading flitting about a lot, should be a lot better once you fit a decent ECU, as I doubt the ignition timing is ideal for a single.

LOL! my loud exhaust just got louder.

Ahh! new entertainment.