Tricky-Ricky

That's the one, sold it to a Dutch guy and I think it got sold on to a German guy who was drag racing it, he did get in touch once after I put out a "where is it now"thread but not heard anything since, wish I hadn't sold it.

Just thought I would check in a have a look ...things have changed here, couldn't log in at first, and I am not sure my old content is still linked, anyway how are you all doing? Me I'm running a mundane diesel these days since I retired, can't afford to run a Supra these days, you will all be doing electric transplants no doubt with the price of fuel, Christ I wish I hadn't sold mine looking at the current prices, best thrill I can get is riding a bike in the summer, anyway will pop in from time to time just see how the Supra's are progressing, take care.

I know but it does make some difference especially if its not too great at maintaining viscosity at hight temps which is what the question pertains to.

This is related to my bike but anyone with experience of using a thicker oil may be able to help, as above which is the best for maintaining hot pressure and can deal with perhaps a little fuel contamination?

Sold to Greg...many thanks mate, mods please move of close.

OK mate will PM you.

As above in pretty good condition, may have the odd mark or a few dog eared pages, it was one of a batch that was professionally printed by a member years ago. Pics to follow. Advertising here, before they go on Ebay. £50 +P&P would guess £10-15 due to weight. Can take PayPal but as a gift.

At least you now know you can do a handbrake turn...:p:innocent:

Pretty confident you will find its the turbo seals, take it for a spin and give it some gas then close the throttle and look in the mirror or get someone to follw and you will see lots of smoke.

The are definitely glass, and you can use a paint polishing compound on glass i have got out mild scratches from my windscreens before now.

I certainly wouldn't use that crank without a grind, even a polish is going to remove a couple of thou which could put the bearing clearance beyond tolerance especially with the abuse the motor has already had due to oil contamination.

Amen!

No worry's fella, i wish you all the best and hope it doesn't end up costing you an arm and a leg to get it sorted, you also might want to edit this part of your reply to Chris further up as you can see what it imply s, hence my comment.

43 cars needing 43 engine replacements....somebody saw you coming my friend, On the subject of sludge, i find it very hard to believe that any Japanese import would be suffering from this as servicing is very easy and second nature to the almost anal Japanese, you can find a dedicated oil change/service garage as easy as you can find fuel in Japan, and as i said before modern oils are very very resistant to forming sludge, i still call the "black death" diagnosis as a money making exercise, but then your never going to know for sure now. Should have taken it to Chris or Lee P at least then you would know for sure what was the cause and it would get fixed properly, but good luck anyway.

Very true, and apply s double to bike engines, the advent of orange Hermetite in the late 70s its cause the demise of so many classic bike engines.

Standard practice to at least turn any engine over without firing until the pressure gauge shows positive pressure, or the oil light goes out, if fitting or had the oil pump worked on.

I haven't heard of "black death" as a maniacal term for sludge build up and i have been working on and off on all kinds of engines for the last 50 years, and TBH i haven't seen a case of serious sludge build up where it leads to an engines demise since the early 80s, with modern oils it should be a thing of the past, since you have had the engine worked on before and sludge build up has never been mentioned previously i would still call bull-crap to that diagnosis!

I am inclined to agree with Ric here, did you not ask him just what he means by his term "black death" i have certainly never heard of the term, sound bullcrap to me, from what i have gathered from all your previous descriptions of the problems i would say its a big or little end knock, probably big end, and as its not seized all its going to need is a crank regrind and new bearings, wont hurt to strip it fully and check and give the oil galleries a clean, but as your not going for big power there is no real need to start replacing other parts just for the sake of it

So oil mist is being trapped by the tank breather but not accumulating in the tank, there is always going to be some oil mist present, how do you know there is actually pressure present? personally i always advocate running a feed from the catch can back to the turbo intake similar to the std setup as this will make best use of the vacuum effect from the turbo intake which is useful for crankcase negative evacuation, and helps promote both ring seal and oil seal, most engines breath rather heavily IE create a lot of oil mist at idle and low load and that's usually why you see oil mist, its normal for a catch can to be needing emptying about once every couple of month's with normal use depending on how much engine heat its exposed to.

Not i figure i would worry about, and certainly not a cause of the blow by your describing, as i have already asked what are the symptoms, are you just seeing a bit of oil or emulsion in the tank or does it pressurize the outlet/vent? Ring seal on a turbo engine increases with the boost pressure so unless there is damage to the rings its unlikely to be the source, i have tested crankcase pressure on my supra and found that even as high boost with twins there was no pressurization with the std PCV system or modified and using a catch can.

What do you call breathing heavy, and from where, it doesn't always mean that its piston blow by, could be from a faulty non return valve in the PCV system, how have you got the breathing configured? std or catch can etc?

If the intake is blanked off with no leaks then its not that that causing the problem, with the cam covers going to the catch can and then to turbo intake is also not going to cause any problems, and if all was OK before then i suspect its just coincidence and perhaps the FPR is playing up is the vacuum source OK, or the pump has decided to play up, other than exes air or not enough fuel i can think of nothing else.

Don't think the N/A PCV has a positive shut off under positive pressure, but in any case i would say its down to the way you have the catch can system installed and the plenum is sucking in unmeasured air, can you post a diagram or pic of how its installed.

Not sure what part of Lincolnshire your in fella, but if you like i will ask my neighbors son if he has the time and is willing to deal with a 2JZ motor, if so i'll give you his number he runs a garage in Kings Lynn and he is very good i have directed members of the 350Z forum in his direction before now, he is what i would call a proper old school mechanic.

What is it with today's modern mechanics, they don't seem to be able to fault find without a diagnostic machine and an assortment of special tools, its an engine FFS and not a complicated one at that.