Tricky-Ricky

True, that just about free air, no fuel, so wouldn't be running, something wrong with the lambda or controller.

As above, are you using a wide-band lambda setup to obtain that reading, as if its a constant there is something wrong with the wide band.

This! there are enough diseases/pests etc that are wiping out bee populations without exterminating then, they are very useful and important to the bio environment, try looking up what would happen should bees become extinct.

If your going to change the stock PCV system, the best option is to block the plenum side, as the low throttle/load side of the PCV system tends to generate the most oil vapor, and link both cam covers together, and/or run two separate pipes to a baffled catch can, and then run the outlet back to the turbo intake, that way you get benefits of the std system without the excess oil vapor in the intake.

Sounds to me like its the way the EMU injector adjustment/compensation for the larger injectors has been done, and or faulty EMU but I doubt it, who is mapping it? and just how much experience do they have?

LOL! laundry bills must get expensive too.

Yeah cant believe the way the prices have gone up in the last few years,i used to pay less than £500 for Triumph pre unit Bonneville's and BSA A10s, back in the 80s/90s, and only paid £1K for a Harley Sportster, and then peanuts for parts, and when I moved to Norfolk I found the guys across the road restores British bikes for a living, and he make a dam good living out of it, and once I found how much the go for these days, plus the parts that I paid so little for have gone up 1,000 fold, was going to buy myself a project until I found how much an incomplete pile of bits was going to cost........

No such thing as a base map, also any map from another single equipped car would be only an approximation, and could contain settings or omissions that would allow det to occur, your far better off getting it mapped to the complete setup by somebody who knows the EMU.

After reading those comments, then yes a complete bell end, and a good example of karma.....however my earlier comments still stand.

True! and hypocrisy often rules, I wonder just how many here would admit to doing those sorts of speed on a public road/motorway when they thought nobody was about and thought the conditions conducive..... in fact I can remember seeing the footage of several members doing similar.

Yes as said the Bosch sensor needs direct contact with the block, no need for a different sized bolt/stud, as long as it locates and is tight it will be fine, fitted the same to my Supra, using KS-4 knock detector.

Its normal for slight oil pooling in the lowest part of the intake, due to the way the std PCV system works.

The EMU is basically set up as independent from the std ECU, other than the global injector compensation, in general I have never needed to tweak the EMU for idle (unless you count the lag settings which can be a bit of a pain) and the same goes for low load/RPM, in fact with the Supra on a single turbo you shouldn't need to touch the maps (other than timing) until you start to make boost, as the std ECU does a very good job of things. I think your saying that if the std ECU was not reset when the EMU was installed and then rest would it make the std ECU not correctly relearn the idle/lambda feedback? the answerer would be no, as its would just be normal feedback as the injectors are already compensated for with the EMU so the std ECU thinks its got std injectors, that why you really shouldn't even try to use the EMU for closed loop adjustment, as the std ECU will just fight it all the way to keep its version of stoic, The only scenario that I can think of is if the injector change setup is incorrect, and the std ECU is trying to bring things back to stoic, and hasn't got enough adjustment, so despite trimming the injectors to reduce fuel it cant get things back. Hope I have explained what I mean and not further confused things. LOL!

They look pretty normal to me, a bit rich at idle and low load, which is the black around the peripheral, but the electrodes are a pretty reasonable colour,which indicates to me that the problem is low down in the RPM/load range.(two look slightly lean, but I would lay money that they are the back two, so normal)

Sorry I miss read your " need to learn" bit, no as I said resetting the std ECU just makes it erase the short term fuel, and timing trim, and relearn idle, so it wont effect the EMU, however I guess it could have had a hiccup and developed a problem. its an odd one, but I still suspect that despite replacing both the ECU coolant temp sensor, and lambda sensor there may be a problem with the wiring perhaps.

If you know how to log on the EMU just make sure you have the std map sensor selected in the log sources and post up the results here.

Are any adjustments made to the EMU map at idle/low load, other than the global injector adjustment? and what is the lag set to?

Disconnecting the lambda sensor wont change anything, the ECU will still run things a bit rich by default, as it still thinks the sensor is dead, If IAT sensor is dead it wont change anything other than loosing temp related fuel trim, as its not a large adjustment, unlike the ECU coolant temp and lambda.

EMU can run a wide-band or narrow-band feedback, but not control wide-band, however its kind of pointless unless your using the self learn/target AFR setting, which doesn't work that well anyway. I was always under the impression that the std ECU, like most can only learn short term fuel trim of idle and cruse, along with knock map for fuel grade, never had any problems erasing these when using EMU, besides its pretty much un necessary to change much map wise unless you are single. Sounds like the std lambda is goosed to me.

The ECU coolant temps sensor outputs a varying resistance according to temperature, if it doesn't change then its faulty, rather like the lambda sensor stuck at 0.3v.

I would first look at the ECU coolant temp sensor, if this has failed the ECU will run things rich by default resulting in a rich mixture, and this will be more apparent during closed loop IE idle and cruising, however if the lambda voltage is not fluctuating that could also be the problem and have the same result. Its unlikely to be the FPR as the rich mixture would likely carry on through the load range.

Just remove butterfly, saw off the stubs, and get the resulting holes welded up.

If that oil has only been in the engine for 200 k and you have that amount of metal I would say you definitely have a bearing on its way out, its unlikely that a new plane bearing turbo would shed that much metal, if it did its faulty, personally I would be investigating further, but its your engine.

Saying 700BHP on a stock bottom end is peanuts, and just assuming everything will be fine is rather blinkered, you had head work done yet didn't bother with the bottom end seems a bit daft to me, have you noticed lower oil pressure recently? The giveaway here is finding sludge in the oil after just a short time of not running, what oil where you using? Leaving it will just result in more expense, and likely a new engine when a rod goes through the block.

If the mechanic had the sump pan off and found metal in the oil, did he not think to check the bottom end bearings for play? it would be easy to pull the big end or mains caps and see what state the bearings are in?