Tricky-Ricky

Knock would be my choice, you can always add a cheap IAT sensor and gauge if you need it, the EMU doesn't do IAT enrichment, and you have a coolant temp gauge. You will need to remove fuel at the top end if staying std turbos, as the std ECU will run things very rich.

I have installed and mapped several EMUs, and now i have had a quick look at the EMU manual i see what you mean http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/Ultimate_Install.pdf And the install is not the same! Anyway you will need to connect "C" as its used for the injector outputs and the crank angle signal, so you wont get correct ignition signals without, and you will also not be able to use the injector adjustment....but hey what do i know.

Well to start with that link is for the emanage blue, and your talking about the ultimate, also not at all sure what you mean by connector "C" the EMU has three multi pin connectors labelled 12P 14P and 18P.

Your far better off running the 10W40 than the 10W50, as you have seen the pressure has come up to about where it should be, the heavier oil will tend to stress the oil pump at high RPM and also i suspect the reason for the lower pressure at WOT is down to the oil being over pressure is keeping the oil pressure relief valve open.

If you do a wet and dry compression test, it will give you an idea if the problem lies with the valves or rings, but a leak down test will give a better insight, trouble is, as already mentioned 12.5 AFR is way to lean for a WOT run, and has probably damaged the ring lands due to det.

Took them a while to jump on the bandwagon.

Cant see removing the PD making any difference as its in the feed to the injectors, the FPR being at the end of the fuel rail makes the pressure by restriction, provided the pump was always up to the job there should be no problem, as for set pressure you should of had a recommended running pressure on the injector spec sheet, otherwise try std and work from there, more pressure will increase AFRs.

Hopefully turbo, but with that amount of smoke the first thing i would be doing is compression and leak down test, good luck..

Its going to cost you the same for insurance, as they would both be classed as performance upgrades, whether you go the BPU route or a remap route, which has been explained is much more difficult to achieve, and BPU will get you more power anyway.

Just to say a big thanks to Annabella for helping me out with a windows disc, so the laptop is up and running, but i do have a wireless problem error 561, got the driver i need to replace but don't have the permission to replace it, anyone know how to change permissions? i have tried but it wont let me, even though the permitted names should be OK?

First off if you have a HKS Vpro fitted and mapped, then the first thing you need to do is remove the the Apexi SAFC 2 as its a liability and useless in comparison to the Vpro. I have never seen that gauge before so i have no idea, if you want to run a wideband lambda gauge, you will need one of the following, anything else IE narrowband is useless. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products.php https://www.amazon.co.uk/Innovate-3844-MTX-L-Digital-Wideband/dp/B004MDT8MW https://h-tune.co.uk/aem-6-in-1-uego-wideband-o2-gauge-honda-mitsubishi-subaru-nissan/?utm_medium=catalog&gclid=CKvqma-2y84CFdZAGwodVsoBcQ https://www.telematica-uk.com/product/PLX-0106/C6AFRG4/DM-6-52mm-+-SM-AFR-GEN4-Combo?gclid=COGCgL22y84CFbgK0wod4YMEAg

As i said, the windows media creation tool wont allow me to download the image file, when i run it to download it just gives me this message "This service cannot be started, ether because its disabled, or because it has no device associated with it" ? And i couldn't find a torrent that was free of malware.

All the Toshiba site brings up for the serial number is windows 8.1 64bit, but the sticker says windows 8 ? this laptop was supplied by our insurance company as a replacement for one that was damaged, so no purchase receipt, and the box, and if it had any info has long since gone, to add to this we have since changed our home insurance provider, that's why its such a pain in all respects.

That's my problem, i cant use the media creation tool to download another copy, for some reason it wont let me, apparently the satellite has the key embedded in the bios, so in theory if i try and load windows from a disc or USB and the bios will restore the licence, but that's why i am not sure if it needs to be a Toshiba version in order to restore the operating system? Thanks for your offer, and it would be very much appreciated, the other problem is that all the sticker on the back says is "windows 8" so i guess its just that, the Toshiba website seems to indicate that its a 64bit but i am not sure if its a home edition, i would presume its is.

Ongoing form my wife's laptop demise, due to the problems i had with the windows 10 cough "upgrade", i ended up removing it, trouble is that i think doing this causes yet more problems, anyway the upshot was that it corrupted the HDD/operating system, now the problem is that the wife didn't create a recovery/system image disc, So after formatting the HDD, which was the only option, i am now left with the prospect of having to pay Toshiba £50 just for a USB or CD to get Window 8 back onto it, as due to the product key being embedded in the bios, i cant just download windows 8 and install, the media creation tool wont let me so i was wondering if anyone has had a similar problem, and knew of a cheaper way around it?

Not quite sure what your worried about, if its just the touching/abrasion of the power cable, just use some rubber/foam sleeve, the braided oil pipes will not pick up heat due to the fact that the oil is moving, and its already at 90-100c anyway, and if your seeing under bonnet temps of more than the oil temp you need to address this anyway.

I have had sky for a long time, probably would have gone virgin....if it was available in my area, however, i have recently gon sky Q which is a little more expensive but does give me far more scope for recordings and multi room and now is UHD.

After a real fight i managed to stop enough services to be able to cut the disc usage, so i could access the revert to windows 8 option, so its now back on that and seems to be working ..........for now, so many thanks for all the input and help guys, at least i have learnt a little more about fixing yet another computer problem, definitely prefer fixing cars...at least they don't fight you all the way...well mostly.

Well this has been a real pain, removed the HDD and ran some checks on another PC, no errors etc, so put it back and spent the best part of the day waiting for it to respond to each commend, it turns out that the disc read/write activity is running at 100%, so i had a look and managed to disable the Avast updater, which helped, but its still running really slow and locks up, but i really cant see just what the culprit is that using so much disc activity, not really sure just what to stop/end using cmd commands?

That's the trouble, i cant run anything, and all i have managed to open has taken half hour or more and then goes nowhere, its not very hot, in fact mine runs very hot and i am waiting for that to die. Anyway i was hoping to avoid pulling the hard drive, but its looking like that's the only option, if i pull alls the needed data and wipe the drive and download a win 8 image to the HDD will the laptop see it and boot?

Thought i would take advantage of the free upgrade anyway did my win 7 laptop and had no problems, did the wife's win 8 and initially no problems, now 10 days later her laptop is very slow refuses to open files/applications, or takes forever, screen goes blank, finally managed to get it to boot in safe mode, but its still the same, so i can run any recovery/repair applications, did wonder if it was a possessor issue, but now think its just windows, trouble is a cant even do anything about getting it to revert to win 8, so has anyone got any ideas before i throw it?

I think as it encroaches on your boundary, you can raise it as a health issue with the council, but AFAIK asbestos is only considered an issue if its being modified/cut/removed etc.

If oil pressure is dropping under hard acceleration, it could be that there is either not enough oil in the sump, or that it needs a baffled sump due to the oil mass moving away from the the oil pick up and its sucking air, or even partially blocked with some debris/sealer, or its loose on the fitting and sucking air occasionally.