Tricky-Ricky

These do the regulators Chris, http://www.godive.net/go-shoot/charging-kit.html

If you think about it the PFC and the std 2JZ ECU will be sporting pretty much the same tech so that's not a worry, as most std ECUs don't seem to fail easily. However if your intending to run serious power I would be far happier with a more modern ECU, I suspect even an EMU will be running better electronics/spec than a std ECU or PFC.

Det is detonation, or some call it pre ignition, a condition when the compressed mixture in the cylinder ignites before the plug is fired, due to hot spots etc, not at all good for an engine and can cause quite extensive damage if un checked, that why its an important part of ECU control and careful mapping. Very true, and not always a good thing, just a further note on PFC, while a good and easy to configure ECU, its considered pretty old tech these days, especially in comparison with the likes of Syvecs etc.

I hope its not always 14.7 you should be seeing 11.2-11.8 under load/boost.

Option 3, but it should go back into the turbo intake, as this will make use of the normal high load PCV side of the system and not only eliminate any oily/fuel smelling odor, but help with ring seal at high loads, for some reason people seem to forget that if you add a proper sealed and baffled catch can, any oil vapor will drop out so its quite safe to plumb back into the turbo intake, and not get oil back into the intake, which was the whole point of fitting a catch can. However I would still be investigating the cause of the fuel smell, as normally you shouldn't be getting that from a catch can unless there is serious over fuelling.

I have never had any smell of fuel, no matter where I situated the catch can, I would either be looking into the cause, or it could possibly be as a result of removing the carbon canister and not relocating the fuel tank vent.

I am afraid depending on what exactly failed, any ECU whether its a piggyback std or stand alone, has the potential to cause catastrophic engine damage, if it was to say let one cylinder run lean during high load/boost. Edit: However the same thing could result from a partially blocked injector or faulty fuel pump or FPR, there are just too many things that could go wrong with an engine or its control that could cause failure, but its really not worth the what if, we would all be riding push bikes.

Yes they do change the signal that the std ECU sees, some manage it better than others, its basically achieved by intercepting the voltage or resistance that sensor's, like MAF or MAP and temp put out, and make changes before it gets to the ECU, BUT not all, some are modified after the ECU, IE timing and injector signals are adjusted after the ECU, I have used the likes of Emanage Blue and ultimate on several cars with no problems, and decent gains, but like anything its all about setup and mapping.

You would first need to establish if you actually have factory fuel pressure at the moment, as anything that changes it from when it was mapped will also change the fuelling slightly.

First off is the Link reporting any odd sensor readings IE not normal? I would double check the following, in no particular order, ECU coolant temp sensor (yes I know but it could also be faulty) Lambda sensor MAP sensor Fuel pressure Injectors or their seals for signs of leaking Air temp sensor wont cause that amount of richness as its quite a minor adjustment, and finally if the oil is smelling strongly of fuel don't push the engine and change it as soon as you find the fault, my favorite would be a stuck injector, or the injector seal is leaking.

Without the full spec its almost impossible to tell you if your map is OK, and even then it would only be a guess, you need to take it to a competent mapper.

Personally I think you could do better on price if you where to go to somewhere like Richer Sounds, if your going to the trouble of fitting wall and ceiling speakers then make sure you go for an Atmos amp/receiver, as for the TV I would always go for Samsung, you can pic up some good deals in the 4K range, I am just going for the UE55JS900 which has a one connect box, great for wall mounting, but comes in 65" and 75" if you want big.

LOL! wont be long before we all communicate with emoticons, bit like a re-emergents of Egyptian hieroglyphics's.

Like everything else....its easy if you know what your doing, anyone who has the slightest bit of common sense and a reasonable aptitude for anything mechanical can manage an N/AT conversion, and a lot more besides, IMO its all to do with the way your brain works, you either have an aptitude or you don't, and those that don't should stay well away.

They have been working on raising a race of wimps with no common sense for some time now...sad times. And are you serious about conkers ?

Exactly! which Is why I asked the question, a 10w40 oil should be still w40 at up to 120C or higher if synthetic, so wont go thin unless contaminated with fuel, agreed! the pump or the pressure release valve would be the culprit, or simply worn bearings will reduce oil pressure, the 2JZ oil pump is pretty tough, mine was knacked yet still kept good pressure with no problem.

No sure just how the oil was too thin when driving hard? and how the pump would have to work harder, thicker oil would put the pump under more stress, it is possible that due to rod loadings the oil was forced from the bearing surface, causing it to spin, but the viscosity shouldn't be the deciding factor, it will be more likely due to the component make up and shear factors, or even a tight or misshaped bearing or even the material, or just plain bad luck.

It is, I think you may be misinterpreting it.

The 5 in 5W30 just means it will be better at lower starting temps IE better flow, using it instead of 10W30 wont have any impact at higher starting temps at all.

This! And are you allowing the engine to run on after a boosted run so the turbo can cool a little? as this combined with bad flow through the turbo from too small a restriction wont help, is the turbo also water cooled? it wont be the oil grade, a good fully synthetic 10W40 should be up to it as long as your not seeing very high oil temps, I presume you have a cooler fitted?

What Frank means is there a separate level control on the amp for each separate speaker and sub? I would turn off the THX on the sub at least and set the cut off and volume at mid point and adjust from there on the amps menu, sounds to me like the volume is to high along with too high a cut off point, that's a goo recipe for boom.

What have you got the volume and crossover set at? if its in a corner that will make it much more boomy, and you can always revers the phase which sometimes helps, the lack of, you have got your main speakers set to small in the amp menu I take it? And it could just be a mismatch of speakers to the amp, some just don't like each other and done perform well, try adjusting the equalizer on the amp.

People always say oh it will gain a couple of BHP as the engine doesn't have to drive the fan, but what people forget that in order to drive the electric fans, and they can draw 40-50 amp on start up it takes engine power to drive the alternator, there is also the general under bonnet cooling effect that a nice big engine driven fan provides.

I always end up recalibrating by ear, rather than using the Audyssey calibration, it seems to have trouble with any room that not dead square, also flooring and furnishings will have a big impact on the sound, where abouts is your sub positioned? this can have a big effect also, along with its setup? All the guides etc always tell you to run everything at 0 tone etc but I never have, because of all rooms are different, you will undoubtedly end up having to boost certain frequency's in order to avoid holes in the sound, I always end up turning up the center speaker as a lot of the time I struggle to hear dialog if listening at reasonable levels where I don't upset the neighbors.

I think you need to be more specific...before this degrades into something even more off topic.