Tricky-Ricky

More increased torque a lot earlier in the rev/load range, it definitely noticeable, but needs mapping for to get the best from it.

I think you will find that the one at the back is the rear turbo WG actuator, you need to keep both, as for performance in TTC you will loose the very low down boost from the first turbo, but get more of a sense of a bigger turbo when they both spool, IE bigger boost hit, but you really need some form of boost control to avoid spikes, and at minimum a decent piggyback like EMU to deal with the fuelling and timing spikes, you will need more fuel when both turbos spool and more in general due to airflow increase earlier in the RPM/load range, plus the need to advance and retard the ign timing in response to the late and increased boost/load.

I think most fuel pumps are designed to handle a range of voltages, like most circuits on a car, as despite the charging regulation, the voltages range from as low a 10v to 15v, I know certain parts of the system have there own built in voltage regulation, but in general its more current draw that will have most impact, especially on something like a fuel pump that has to vary its current draw in line with fuel demand.

I think if your going to be driving a bigger pump (more load) than the pump ECU/wiring is intended for it would be worth junking the ECU an rewire, too much load on either could result in overheat which is not ideal, that would apply to the supply both to and from the relay, however it does depend on what the pump current draw is.

The main thing to wire open is the exhaust flap actuator, the rest can be removed, all the VSVs and the spider web from the top of the pipework, I think I even removed the read valve in the rear pipework, just don't remove the turbo actuators.

IMO it would be a bit daft and inaccurate for a WB lambda sensor to re calibrate every time the car is started...think about it the sensor can only recalibrate properly in free air, so its OK if you have left the car overnight, but if its been run in the last couple of hours its going to still have exhaust gas in the pipework, so surly its not going to calibrate correctly, so unless it can read the presence of atmospheric air, it wouldn't calibrate? I think I prefer the Innovate method IE wait 24hs and then calibrate/or on long overrun where fueling is off on most cars.

LOL! a better mousetrap!!

Here is a pic of the plenum side ( low throttle/idle part) of the PCV system, the short pipe in the foreground, you can also see the link pipe that goes from one cam cover to the other, there is the also another breather pipe that then goes to the turbo intake pipe, this is the full throttle/high load side of the PCV system. They are basically intended as emissions control, but you can safely block off the plenum, and run both to a catch can or a filter, or if you still want to make use of the PCV crankcase evacuation to negate pressure, you can link/T both pipes to a catch can and then to the turbo intake.

You could have a point there about changing port access, dint think I would need to port forward as the NAS normally just appears on the network, its a little confusing as the NAS operates on both local network and via html, which explains why I could see it and file content on local network with the router and PC but on things that need to use html like my TVs and Ps3 it was visible but no file content. Thanks for everyones input, but as I said it now seems to work, and right now I am loath to mess any further just in case, but once I have done a little more research and feel confident to delve a little deeper....but for now I'll leave it be........but I may be back with another cry for help soon.

No 100% but could be poplar or prunus of some species, did it self seed and grow very quickly, and you cant see a tree similar nearby? Edit: if it has silvery coloured undersides to the leaf, it could also be sallow, which is a member of the willow family.

No! the NAS is connected via LAN to the router, in fact all the major things like both TVs two NAS, PS3 and a desktop are all connected by LAN, its just mine and the wifes laptops that use wireless.

No upnp changes, and it wasn't an update, you can add various web based packages/add on's to the functionality, like cloud access etc, the only thing I can think of is that logging into one of these has inadvertently changed a minor setting, but I have now uninstalled pretty much everything. Well all of a sudden it seems to be working yet I have changed nothing that haven't changed before, IE back to the setting that its normally used on both NAS and router. I am now wondering if it was down to the media server that it uses, Twonky, however if I use the the web link on the NAS it will ask for a password but reject any that I give it despite it being right, but as most know the free version which I would think its running (cant change that) is no longer supported, at least to the public, I downloaded a trial onto my laptop and wonder if logging into this has helped...probably not but at least its working for now.

No duplicat IPs , just cant figure just what has changed, the fact that its accessible via the home network but not via web streaming, but then shouldn't it be able to stream via home network to the TV? And the other very odd thing is the fact that when it was powered down and disconnected, it worked on reconnection, and then stopped, what could cause that? Also been through the router config but cant find anything that looks amiss, I can also ping the NAS without problem.

Tried that at least what I can, Update, I have just had to go out so turned the NAS off, and when I came in I unplugged it from the power supply, and the LAN then plugged back in again, turned on and initially all worked for about 3 minuets....and now back to square one, most odd?

This is driving me nuts, I have a Zyxel 320s NAS bought earlier this year, and its been perfectly fine until now, last night I decided to install two new packages that basically allow cloud storage and access, don't remember touching anything else, now I suddenly cant access any of the shared content via both my TVs, PS3 and computers via the web based interface, however I can access it via the computer network with no problem. Now I have gone through all the settings and cant see any reason for this, I have also uninstalled the packages and disabled any others that I thought might have any impact, but I am now out of ideas, so any help or suggestions very welcome, other than what I have done before I have no idea, and am not particularly knowledgeable when its comes to NAS setup.

I hate unprofessional and rude trades people, the misses booked a local heating engineer to service our 3 year old external oil fired boiler, nothing special just the usual nozzle replace, clean and combustion check, I will be doing it once the five year warranty runs out. Anyway today its raining and not very nice, however the misses sees the van arrive but looks like he cant see the house number, so the wife nips out to verify, ( I think he was already looking for an excuse to leave before he started) Right from the start he was looking for a reason not to do the job to the extent that he was making obstacles and being just downright unprofessional and rude to extent where the wife called me and I said his attitude sucked, at which point he fooked off! He basically dint want to do the job that he booked in the rain, now after going around the side of the house to look at the boiler he took the hose reel off the wall and chucked it on the ground, then proceeded to tell the wife that his gazebo would "crush the plants", and "you will be suing me because your boiler electrics get wet" fair point but but why not either just ring and cancel the job politely because of the rain, or just turn up and say sorry to let you down etc etc, but instead he is a complete knob end!

The single turbo could be done, however you would likely be only running something like 2psi on a turbo that's capable of making 600BHP at the flywheel, as despite being MAP based it still measures mass airflow by pressure, so with the extra airflow you will need to run very low boost, you could run a piggyback and decent adjustable FPR turned up a little to squeeze some more flow from the injectors, but as they will be 15 years old I am not sure how reliable they would be when pushed, so I would either go BPU or proper single install.

If the TT throttle body will fit, that has a pulley to open the throttle so the cable can run from behind.

I am presuming you mean a front facing plenum? which takes a std throttle body, but the cable is too short.... why not just get another longer cable, I believe an Celica ST205 is longer and will fit. IMO you would just be making yourself work by trying to fit the larger throttle body.

When you look at the basics its not great, by individual cylinder tables are you looking for a full table or just tweaks? even EMU has tweaks for timing and fuelling on an individual cylinder basis, which is really handy on an engine that runs a risk of inner or last cylinder running hot or weak etc.

At last! thank you! I was getting very sick of the bickering, spoils interesting and entertaining threads.

If your really stuck fella, and can make it to Kings Lynn, I can take a look at it for you, I have a fair bit of experience with wiring and ice, I also have Supra manuals.

That's exactly what I was saying .....just way more concisely put.

So you want to run a std type lambda on what ECU? I would presume you have a stand alone or piggyback at a minimum? for a single turbo, in which case why not run a wide-band set up? and run a simulated signal to the piggyback, failing that try just lambda and look for the appropriate threaded universal sensor.