Jump to content
The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Tricky-Ricky

Club Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    9179

  • Joined

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Tricky-Ricky

  1. Tricky-Ricky
    I presume you have checked the oil pick up tube in the sump is not loose and sucking in air?
  2. Tricky-Ricky
    I think i would be looking at changing the oil pump/pressure relief valve, i know it sounds unnecessary, but from experience of how the pump can behave i think its s possibility that it has problems/wear, i have had a badly worn pump maintain a very healthy pressure, while leaking like a sieve and pressurising the front main seal and causing multiple faliure, however i would at least start with replacing the pressure relief valve BB and spring and see if that helps, as its the cheapest option.
  3. Tricky-Ricky
    Iconic but not much ooomph for the money at only just under 350BHP, should of chucked in an R35 twin turbo lump.
  4. Tricky-Ricky
    I'm disappointed too, Anyway knock sensors do fail and also wear with age, so can generate spurious signals, also with a modified and/or worn engine, some things can generate noise and a frequency that is the same as the knock sensors listen for.
  5. Tricky-Ricky
    I think you need to go and do some reading up on the subject and not take notice of what others who know nothing say.
  6. Tricky-Ricky
    Thanks, but it was fuel starvation due to a blockage in the carb, it started fine just wouldn't stay running for long. But yes two stroke plugs can foul easy due to the amount of oil in the mix.
  7. Tricky-Ricky
    Sorry, its because the only two strokes that i know of that don't require an oil premix are some of the Japanese bikes that have a separate oil tank and mix oil in operation.
  8. Tricky-Ricky
    LOL! Thanks guys....stripped and cleaned the carb for the fourth time, and in now seems to be working, so i obviously managed to dislodge whatever miniscule piece of crap that was blocking something, so fingers crossed i don't end up doing it again, it has been faultless for the last three years, so i guess i cant complain too much.....back to my favourite job...grass cutting:rolleyes:
  9. Tricky-Ricky
    This one is driving me nuts, it started cutting out so did all the usual, checked the fuel delivery from tank etc, then rebuilt and cleaned the carb, twice! the second time it dropped the idle, but ut still does the same thing...runs for about a minute and dies, so to me that says fuel starvation, the primer/pump bulb stay full of fuel and not running dry, the fuel lines are not blocked, and the diaphragms in the carb look fine, anyone had these sort of symptoms and managed to cure it?
  10. Tricky-Ricky
    Well your divisions are set to 121 Ms so its going to exaggerate any variations, but in answer to your original question, yes i have seen similar on ignition and other traces with the EMU logging, whether its spurious or interference i don't know, but i never saw a misfire while this reading showed. It also looks like you have the same interference on the RPM trace as well, are you using the EMU as fuel cut defender? as the airflow trace is hitting this area, and you have got the output set lower, does the JZS161 Aristo run both MAP and MAF?
  11. Tricky-Ricky
    Mostly due to the time scaling on the trace, by the looks of it.
  12. Tricky-Ricky
    What can i say....
  13. Tricky-Ricky
    So is there nothing to help isolate the chassis from potentially damaging harmonic frequency's generated at certain RPMs on an F1 car? no isolation pads/bushes etc?
  14. Tricky-Ricky
    Love the analogy Chris:d the only cars i know of that use none or minimal damping are drag, even F1 cars have damped engine mounts.
  15. Tricky-Ricky
    Yes anything that uses solid or just hard rubber will transmit engine vibration to the chassis/body, if you want to reduce engine twist and still retain some comfort, i would source a mountain bike adjustable shock and fabricate mounts, that way you will be able to limit movement and still be repetitively free of bad vibes. As you can see by the video, most, including the Weapon R dampers just use hard rubber and just transmit vibration.
  16. Tricky-Ricky
    I used to use a trade cut and wax, its a mild abrasive polish mixed with wax, best of both.
  17. Tricky-Ricky
    If you get much interest, i also have a full set, did put them up for sale a year or two ago, but had no interest.
  18. Tricky-Ricky
    I would go ahead and put the account into joint names, and if its questioned, then all that needs to be said is that as he is going into care, his wife needs more control of their assets, as he normally pays bills etc, so now he needs to have that pressure removed, after all it is their money no matter who the account holder is, she would normally be entitled to half if they divorced, or...... sorry!
  19. Tricky-Ricky
    Oil wise the choice is yours really, pretty much all modern oils exceed the spec of the original, so it will fine, one thing to avoid is going too thick, as this will over work the oil pressure relief valve and make the pump work harder, and if the pump is work it will cause more leakage to the FMS, i always used a 10W40 semi synth. Not sure about the rough sound, but the delay in making oil pressure could be just the oil grade, or a bad or partially blocked filter.
  20. Tricky-Ricky
    Hows this? I have allays thought that intake and throttle size, only becomes a restriction when N/A, as soon as there is a positive pressure IE Boosted, the intake pipe/throttle body size is only a restriction when the boost/flow exceeds a certain amount. IE pressurised can flow far more then non pressurised in the same pipe size/dia, before the size becomes a restriction.
  21. Tricky-Ricky
    Nice job, i bet your glad its almost finished, always nice to have some water in your garden, mine was a blank canvas when we moved in, but very glad it was flat.
  22. Tricky-Ricky
    Not quite sure how to re explain it to you, if you add oil to a cylinder it will (unless damage is server) increase the compression reading, however you can still have a badly seating valve that's dropping compression, even if the added oil increases the reading, therefore the adding of oil does not rule out using a leak down test in order to correctly diagnose whether the problem lies with the valve seal or not.
  23. Tricky-Ricky
    I do know all the reasons fella, but i think you missed my point.
  24. Tricky-Ricky
    I would disagree, i often do a cold compression test followed by a hot test, it gives a better idea of ring/bore condition, even cold those figures are low for a good TT engine, a wet test will always result in a slightly better reading, and is not a definitive sign of badly sealing valves.
  25. Tricky-Ricky
    The figures are a little low and the difference between cylinders is over the limit...just, for the mileage I would say the car has had a harsh life, however, I would run a leak down test, as this will give a better idea of where the low compression is caused IE ring seal or valve seal, could be either.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. You might also be interested in our Guidelines, Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.