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Everything posted by m12aak
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Nice! I know the stock has been spotty at best over the past few months, let us know once it arrives!
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Just measured my Denso replacement one (4770-589), dimensions are: W: 670mm H: 389mm 16mm Just had a look on Jegs as they 'stock' them in the US, their estimated ship date is 08/09/22: https://www.jegs.com/i/Denso/313/477-0589/10002/-1. I got mine from RockAuto in the US.
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Hi, I have a set from my NA manual which have been in my garage since 2019, they are crusty but were working perfectly fine before I took them off (upgraded to full UK spec), if they're any use? They're only taking up space so happy for you to have them for the postage if you're interested. One slider (the one pulled out in the photos) was sticky but I just managed to pull it out with some leverage on a spanner, so a re-grease should set that right. The rest are all moving freely as-is. As they've been sitting about for a while there'll always be the slight degree of uncertainty, so no worries if you'd rather wait for a better set. Cheers
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Nice progress, I'm hoping it'll all fall into line for you sooner rather than later to get it over the line. Good oil choice, I chose the same in 5w-40 for the TT. It took around 5L too (still using the smaller OE Supra oil filter), the NA wants closer to 5.5 with the bigger V8 filter.
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I use Bilt Hamber's Autofoam in a pressure prayer (like this) as you only need approx. 80ml for 2 litres, which'll cover the whole car. I then rinse it off (which removes the bulk of grime), and then I use a generic foam lance (the MTM PF22.2 is apparently the dogs proverbials, so I'm upgrading to that when I can next warrant to), but with normal car soap (CarChem 1900:1 supersuds in my case) and then just wash using the usual 2 bucket method, so there is already soap/lubrication on the car when I start the contact wash.
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PM sent re. misc. brackets and SMIC bushes/rubbers, thanks.
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Sorry I didn't interpret servo as the booster, just thought you meant the master cylinder (my bad). There doesn't appear to be a seal kit for the brake booster unfortunately: https://toyota.epc-data.com/supra/jza80/94022/chassis/4703/. I know new ones are like £500+ so it may be worth changing the (considerably cheaper) seals/cylinders in the master first to rule that out? There may well be an aftermarket seal kit though or another booster/servo which will fit, I have never looked tbh.
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The EPC shows a cylinder kit available: https://toyota.epc-data.com/supra/jza80/94022/chassis/4702/04493/ Just bear in mind there are differences between a car that originally comes with 'UK brakes/17's' (4pot/2pot calipers) as I believe the cylinder size is larger for those cars.
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I haven't removed stock twins myself but I have this how-to saved for when I do: https://www.diyauto.com/manufacturers/toyota/generations/supra-a80/diys/stock-twin-turbo-removal-by-94canuck. Bear in mind it may not be 100% applicable to a jspec car as they're working on a US car but from the looks of it much is the same, so use of this guide with the turbocharger Toyota service manual should make it pretty straightforward!
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Keron keeps facelift ones on the shelf, iirc they were about £520 ish. I think prefacelift ones are far more expensive but are also available from the dealer (not tried myself!)
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Hi, I had a brief look at the Toyota parts diagram and nothing listed there looked like what you were describing. When I googled 'M8 thread exhaust mount' this came up and looks like it may be exactly what you need?
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No problem, however, as evinX said, it seems there is another issue at play here in addition to the sticky dashpot. I have no idea what the long term effects are when you don't run one, but I'd personally persevere and try and sort the one you have (Toyota would have included it for a reason), as the part number is 22202-46060, but it appears to be discontinued. To be honest from how the dashpot appears to work I would be very surprised if yours could not be saved, as I said all I needed to do to get mine back and working properly was clean it and ensure the piston moved freely (it may be easier to do this off the car). also, have you run through the diagnostic procedures listed within the Toyota workshop manuals? Maybe the ICV isn't working within spec? Also make sure all vacuum lines are routed as OE. It looks like your one that should come from the charcoal canister and then through a check valve into the top of the throttle body (iirc) is capped off. I have no clue if that would cause a high idle, but to rule that out I'd look at reconnecting it.
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I'm not too sure, if there aren't many takers then it probably isn't worth having a club stand (do you have to pay extra to have one?) I'm planning on going anyway, irrespective of the club having a stand or not, and would certainly be up for being on the stand if we have one (obviously!)
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I'm interested too please
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Yeah as @Samurai 20V said. I had a similar issue, it was the dashpot as it was old and dirty. Some WD-40/penetrating oil to clean it out fixed it, I just cleaned the 'piston' and left the cap/filter alone. I have a spare to hand so I took a photo of it just in case you weren't sure what it was (when I first heard the word I didn't have a clue lol)
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You'd think there would be (the condenser core itself may be) but iirc no part numbers from Supra condensers match up with any other model because of the different line routing (happy to be corrected though!)
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Someone rear ended me earlier this month (luckily at low speeds, it was a blessing in disguise as mine was also on it's way out too, albeit not quite like yours Darren!) I bet most cars' ones are in need of a replacement. Funnily enough I just picked a new rear bar/polystyrene insert up from Keron a few hours ago! I'm not sure if mileage/age makes much of a difference but that's after 142k miles and 26 years (18 in the UK) of being daily driven for presumably its whole life really. Good thing you've decided to get her in for the work, god knows what a couple more years' would've done!
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Hi all, The alignment bolts in my NA have seized in and overall the rear suspension could do with a going over. I'm after a Supra rear subframe (with or without arms/hubs) to make my life easier when it comes time to replace the alignment bolts and diff bush, as I can build it off the car and swap straight over. Happy to travel anywhere in the UK to collect. Many thanks!
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Help with finding the correct height for the front emblem
m12aak replied to auzzam's topic in Supra Chat
Interesting, I had no idea they were even metal to begin with! You learn something new every day. Thanks for the information. -
Help with finding the correct height for the front emblem
m12aak replied to auzzam's topic in Supra Chat
I always thought the opposite, 040 Supras were always black (greyish) badges, and the silver/gold was an option. The bumper/badge on the NA appears to be completely original, as the badge measurements tally up with the 80x62mm you mentioned, and the holes are there to locate it (I had no idea mine had snapped off, definitely time for some new badges!) When I replace the badge I'll measure up the distances to the mounting holes. The TT6 (unfortunately not stored with me so I can't measure now and 100% confirm), looks to have an OE silver badge, as shown as an option in the 96' brochure. The rear badges on both cars are black. I have never liked the silver badge anyway, the plan is to buy some gold ones from Venom Automotive for the TT6, as OE gold are hen's teeth. I agree, a few mm difference probably isn't a big deal. -
Here you go, they’re discontinued. I tried ordering some from the US last year as they were shown as ‘in stock’ but they cancelled my order and said they were not made any more. Whifbitz/SRD sell billet brackets now iirc.
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Help with finding the correct height for the front emblem
m12aak replied to auzzam's topic in Supra Chat
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It depends on your car as the EPC says 04/1995 as the switchover date: You can see the differences in this thread here: Obviously check on your car if it is a late pre-facelift as they may have used up the leftover pre 04/1995 bits in later cars. I know some of this has been said above but I just wanted to chime in with the date for the switchover just in case some were in doubt as I think pre-facelift cars as a whole went to 05/1996