SupraTRD_MK4

Nice. Well done Dave

Very stunning Karl. Really a world of a difference before and after

Hey there mate. I use this site to reference part numbers. They are not showing the part you are looking for. http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/jp/1993/supra/jza80-alpqz/4_291130_010_/powertrain-chassis/4708_brake-tube-clamp/2

Nice. It seems even more in depth explained than previous post I have read. Well done and keep it up mate

That coil pack cover, it be the oem plastic one mate? If so will you ship internationally?

yoh. fantastic turn around. Eyt now sell that car and restore another for us supra minded people. Well done and thanks for that bit on the restore on the scuttle panel. My dumb local agents say discontinued on it. I managed to find a used one for 25% of the agents price but with shipping half the price of new. Now I still need to find the rubber seal for it

up to you. all look good. a guy in UAE had his shop colour match one of his best panels and mixed the paint then redone all his panels over. Looks oem and brand new and still retains the stock look. Some door carbon fibre but I guess if it sees too much sun it can fade or all will fade regardless but the clear on the carbon fibre peels after decades lol then it looks krap. Last thing anyone should ever do is paint them anything besides silver, white or black but hey each to his own. Go check out the forum build threads and you will see many have done different things to suit their taste. I had found mine were all covered with a material, maybe over the years it looked sketchy so I pulled it all off as I prefer the plastic on some parts of the car.

lol get me a courier price on that out of interest?

Very beautiful there. Love every bit of the detail. Keep it up mate.

Lovely work there. That turbo pulls like a train. Very nice man. Think if I go single, I will need one Borg Warner turbo like that as well.

Harry is your engine vvti or non vvti? Std ecu or not?

Nice to know and thanks for updating the post mate. Will be helpful for alot of us who retain the std twin turbo setup

Nice work mate. Looks the bees knees. Lucky you didnt put it just in and decided to conduct the above work but I guess you would have heard the pulley before something catastrophic occurred. Could I ask you a favor pls? Could you measure the bolt dimensions for the auxiliary belt tensioner, the one from whiftbitz that you fitted. I am missing both bolt and pulley and will get the pulley from them however the bolt cannot be purchased separately from Toyota as it gives a complete number for the tensioner.

Eina that be bad in that case. GWS mate

I thought of that. But wont it still be usable?

That seems a decent price for a car like that. Might be missing alot but seems straight enough.

Hello there Tom As requested here is a photo of it marked. Thanks [ATTACH=CONFIG]228540[/ATTACH]

Swap you for an incomplete non runner JZA80? I always wanted this car since I was young. Not because of Initial D but because I liked the car in the N2 formula atlantic racing and the body design is superb in my eyes. Hope she goes to a great home man. Why did you opt for a mild duration cam for track use? I was expecting to see atleast 290 deg or 304 deg with 10.5 or 11mm lift duration mate?

Hey Jazz thanks alot mate. I believe mine had them but I guess the previous owner's choice of body shop were not so clued up. I have one side a little bit of the part trimmed straight off. The other side has been cut off even more. They even cut off some of the mounting points for the fenders to the sides along side where the bonnet seals or I would say above the wheel of the body. Thanks for the photos. Really helped me. I will try and make the part myself and fibreglass it into the FRP fenders and see if I can win with that. Thanks yet again

Does that not hold the wheel down in place and not the jack as I have seen the jack simply has a strap that keeps it down?

Damn. Yeah paid a beefy price for them on my merc as well from agents. Could get aftermarket for half the price but don't trust it with something on the main drive line. That sounds decent. You could sell it for that and say negotiable.

Hey there mate. Don't mean to be rude but I seen one on the net for less than $10 and its been there for 3 months now if not more. Unless you can show close up views of the actual rubber surface and there is no cracks in them or deformation and the bolt holes dont have play, then you should be able to obtain the same if not more. I would gauge the price on new and compare that to the condition of what you have and see from there.

Hey there mate. I did my sister's ford figo the other day with no assistance. Don't think its the same but I did change brake calipers on my GT Toyota once. I simply used the bottle and tube filled to the extent that the tube is submerged in the brake fluid within the bottle like everyone else suggested and which you conducted. Just ensure fluid level is on full mark in the reservoir, then close the reservoir with cap. Open the bleed valve on caliper then pump the brake three times all the way to the floor. I had old fluid come out with moisture and dirt then I closed the bleed valve and replenished the fluid in reservoir. I did this for both sides and it worked fine after I tested it before starting the car. In your case since its hitting the floor, I would use my hand to push it back and forth quickly as possible to try and obtain brake pedal resistance whilst someone is monitoring the caliper being bled to ensure the bottle is about to over flow or not. You should win this way with your new calipers. I am yet to refit my JDM calipers to my car and I am sure I am going to suffer as my brakes aren't on for one & two my lines were not sealed off.

You have pm mate

Jazz I have marked the section in red. This is where the head light would attach to the fender. If you could take a photo from the top view behind the head light there for me or from an angle behind it so in front of the air filter housing pls