SupraTRD_MK4

Can you pm me for the kick panels driver and passenger side pls mate. Been after the one side only but will take both due to colour difference. They marked at £60

Thats it. Well done mate.

Beautiful indeed

Very nice. Wll done to you man. When I can afford it one day God willing, I also want to keep mine twin turbo and do what you have done to yours. Great improvement with the power from what it was at 1.1 bar of boost. Nice man really nice. Need a video of it when you driving for our entertainment pls:D

jackso11. Lemme know what you want for the old one once you remove it please?

Nice to know. Well done mate

RSB is the same guy. He mentioned the same issue with the light in the ad as well. Nice

Did you people manage to come right with this? Fitted my new door panels and have had my window close very loudly always when I closed the door. I even adjusted the door like an idiot thinking it was that. Yeah I need new rubbers but the window had too much wobble/play in it. I did loosen 2 bolts holding the window to the rubber and moved it up and tightened it. That helped. Guess last thing for me to try to fix it entirely is do that adjustment at the bottom.

fb has 400 pounds. Check the UK page

Thanks Rider

Hello good people I am looking for the driver side inner door handle mounting plate pls. I am also looking for the passenger side door big black plate and the small silver one that looks like an L. It mounts to this plate and holds the 2 door cables to it as well as attaches the door arm rest of the door panel to it. Anyone have these spare items please let me know. They are three metal plates as can be found below. 67646-14020 67412-14060 69615-14020 Those are the three items. I have found the screw I was looking for in the above section. It list two of them that hold the door panel at the front using the plastic clip.90159-40229 for the screw and 90950-01746-22 plastic clip.

Okay so I got new door panels for my car which I am replacing my customized ones with. They are lighter and look better oem then these customized ones. I need the part number for the screw in front. They are two only which have the washer spaced on them for the plastic cover to fit over. If anyone has any photos of their door panels and all the screws it would be nice to see. I am also after a driver side door handle lever mounting plate, the steel plate with the 3 plastic grommets that hold the inner door handle lever to it. I have seen the other post and see there is a screw holding the door handle bezzel as well as a screw inside somewhere behind that once removed. I will see when I fit that. I have fitted the left panel but as mentioned need 1 of those special screws with washer. I also don't have the big black plate and small silver one that enable the door arm rest to mount to for both sides. Anyone have these lying around for me? Please help someone:search:

You can loosen the catches/lock mechanisms a tad bit down. It should help a bit but as Mike mentioned try that. I have fitted mine the other day and it was basically squashing the rubber on my lights upon closing.

Thought it was a joke. Sorry to hear mate. Glad you have both great cars under your ownership.

All great work done to this car. Wish I could do the same in my process of rebuilding my car

Great sarcasm mate. On a serious note is the motor rebuilt on the bottom end? Do you know why it failed?

Tyson no I did not get it. I did not see it either as the man does not live in my hood of town. I don't have time to go out and see a car to prove unfortunately. I don't think its on the registry either. One thing for sure is the owner is meticulous when it comes to his cars. Even has an SLK55 AMG that's in pristine condition. Our Rand had weaken a lot over the past few months which had him decide to sell it. Now I don't know what has happened with the car or his decision to sell up. I know he did mention he will hold on till the prices increase ever more or the Rand depreciates which I pray it doesn't, atleast until my car is complete that is lol.

You can still buy them online. Not sure bout Toyota but Japan does have them. Afraid they are almost $15 to $20 each

I would have mentioned to get the correct diff output flange, or get a custom made coupler that will allow the propshaft to mate to the diff flange

Stunning. Those indicators you bought, make sure they have the harnesses else you my have to get them as well. There is a pdf on the net on how to go about installing them on a preface lift model car

Nice. They look fantastic. GWS

Dont mean any harm to anyone here but Jap auctions JDM full air inlet setup sold for roughly $400. It was the scoop box and filter and the rubber hose from the turbo that joins to it I think. Crazy price

Thanks Shane. I considered that or getting something alternative to use. Hello Rider. Is that link in the site TCB themselves? I have ordered the plug from there but did not get a tracking number or anything. I am looking for alternatives or if someone has a spare plug lying around. The colour as you mentioned matters not to me mate. Thanks

blimme sounds like a horror movie. Lucky me my rear panels are broken and I did find replacements so I was able to fit my struts with ease. Sadly my boot lid where the bolts mount, the nuts are rusted on the inside. I did chase the threads but two are fubbered so will have to fit dry wall inserts after drilling them and tapping.

Hello there mate. Yes good points mentioned there. If you keeping the car then don't think engine numbers will be of concern to you after you do the licensing paper work. For a future buyer, perhaps it may cause an issue. I say if its your daily car then get the shelf unit. If its not, rather rebuild your own motor. As far as welch plugs, freeze plugs, core plugs being replaced, I have no idea but my guess is if they don't look painted and are gold looking or shiny silver, they they were replaced. One only needs to replace them if the cooling system was never maintained well as this would cause huge amounts of corrosion over time resulting in failure and loss of coolant. The off the shelf item, are the builders reputable people? That can out weigh the choice of rebuilding your own motor. My guess is they will issue you block and head as the rest are not really prone to wear. Std exhaust system could have obtained cracks over the years or become distorted but otherwise I wouldn't bother much bout the intake and exhaust side. The parts the motor doesn't come with, you can remove off yours and fit it over on to the new engine. P.S I don't know who rebuilds motors by you area in Ireland so I am merely speculating. If you can find a reputable engineer, I say strip the motor yourself, order the parts that you know need replacing. Await engineer's response on pistons and cylinder wall as well as crank and rod journal observations. These parts you can only order after they have inspected whilst the rest you can order in the mean time to replace. With regards to the cylinder head, you can order new guides and valves and get the specs for the engineer to ream and machine where necessary for the right oil clearance. Hoping the cam journals are ok, a polish will do fine. Usually you don't need new valve seats and engineering work will cost a bit as they remove the old one and fit the new one but I heard they are not as easy done than said. Then they have to cut the new seats and cut the valve face angles to match. There are other stuff you may consider doing like porting and polishing as well as some combustion area cleaning and polishing work that a skilled and knowledgeable engineer can do for you whilst the head is being redone for you. There are other points I may have left out but yeah those are a few. If the budget isn't too bad, might want to get an uprated Titan oil pump unless its not really much besides the ported oil feed hole and smoothing of the flow area.