j_jza80 Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 The mods can, but us mere mortals don't have the power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Would a mod be able to change the thread title to "Jacks 6266 TT6 Build"? I've tried to change it myself but it hasn't appeared to actually change anything! Sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 Sorted. Ahh thank you so much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 The mods can, but us mere mortals don't have the power Title editing still works for me........... now kneel at my power mere mortal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 So these arrived today Michelin Pilot Super Sports in 295/35/19. Hopefully these should help put some traction down with the new single! On another topic (rear subframe bushings) the only brand I can find is Super Pro, however their rear subframe bushing kit only includes TWO actual bushings, but looking at images online there's actually 6 bushings to be replaced - this has left me very confused about how many bushings I actually need for the rear subframe! Could anyone shed some light on this for me? I'm almost 100% certain I need 6, but if Super Pro sell a 'rear subframe bushing kit' for £210 that only includes 2 bushings, is that enough? PLEEEEASE someone help I've been trying to get my head round this all day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Do your subframe rebuild properly and get new oem bushes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 Do your subframe rebuild properly and get new oem bushes? Is that a question? Could you elaborate on what you mean by 'properly'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Is that a question? Could you elaborate on what you mean by 'properly'? As in oem bushes are superior to polybush ones, so if you are putting some time and money towards it go oem edit: especially as the rest of the bushes on the car will be oem as well (unless you have previously polybushed the rest?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 As in oem bushes are superior to polybush ones, so if you are putting some time and money towards it go oem edit: especially as the rest of the bushes on the car will be oem as well (unless you have previously polybushed the rest?) Why are they superior? I need as close to solid mount as possible to prevent the subframe from cracking and to stop drivetrain parts from shaking around, causing axle tramp. I don't have the money to polybush the whole car, which is why I've focused specifically on the ones which may stop my car from wheel hopping, and as the diff is mounted onto the subframe, I figured this is my best shot at fixing the axle tramp (I wait to be corrected as I really do need this issue sorted before the conversion is complete) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 (edited) Not sure I follow your logic. You want to prevent your subframe cracking, so you want as near to a solid mount as possible? You need your mounts/bushes/suspension components to have some flex in them in order to disperse the energy that is being transmitted through your driveline/diff, rather than having it transmitted straight to your chassis/diff that you get with solid mounts or hard mounts, otherwise you risk warping/cracking. If we are assuming that your wheel hop is indeed created from a bush not doing it's job properly, then it is more than likely worn beyond the factory limits and the bush is allowing more movement then designed. Replacing said bush with an oem bush that is within spec will be the way to address this. If you have the majority of your suspension and bushes currently oem, then I recommend sticking with oem replacements. Oem parts are designed to work with each other. Yes using a polybush won't be the end of the world, but in my opinion unless you do the entire thing in polybush there is no point, as you start to upset the balance of the design of the car by throwing in foreign parts. Also, if you look into the design of polybush sets that are available for the supra, they are primarily made only of edit: polyurethane, whilst oem bushes are a mixture of rubber + metal nevermind just had a look and they both have inner metal sections, dunno why I thought polybushes didn't, difference is then between polybush material vs oem rubber. There is a difference for a reason, and imo I'd take toyota's design over 'performance parts', unless we are talking about a car that isn't a roadcar Edited February 9, 2016 by Mike2JZ (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 OEM are also superior because Chris Wilson says so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AlexTC Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 :O That is an amazing project you got there! u do know how to get the most out of it! Def want to see it one day in action! Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 Not sure I follow your logic. You want to prevent your subframe cracking, so you want as near to a solid mount as possible? You need your mounts/bushes/suspension components to have some flex in them in order to disperse the energy that is being transmitted through your driveline/diff, rather than having it transmitted straight to your chassis/diff that you get with solid mounts or hard mounts, otherwise you risk warping/cracking. If we are assuming that your wheel hop is indeed created from a bush not doing it's job properly, then it is more than likely worn beyond the factory limits and the bush is allowing more movement then designed. Replacing said bush with an oem bush that is within spec will be the way to address this. If you have the majority of your suspension and bushes currently oem, then I recommend sticking with oem replacements. Oem parts are designed to work with each other. Yes using a polybush won't be the end of the world, but in my opinion unless you do the entire thing in polybush there is no point, as you start to upset the balance of the design of the car by throwing in foreign parts. Also, if you look into the design of polybush sets that are available for the supra, they are primarily made only of polyurethane, whilst oem bushes are a mixture of rubber + metal. There is a difference for a reason, and imo I'd take toyota's design over 'performance parts', unless we are talking about a car that isn't a roadcar My understanding is solid mount = better power delivery & less movement of drivetrain parts BUT a high risk of the subframe cracking. A step-down from solid mounts would be polyurethane, another step-down would be TRD, and then finally OEM. As OEM are the softest and solid mounts are the hardest, and I want to go as hard as possible without going solid, I figured polyurethane would be the best option Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 :O That is an amazing project you got there! u do know how to get the most out of it! Def want to see it one day in action! Good luck! Haha thanks dude I really can't wait Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 (edited) My understanding is solid mount = better power delivery & less movement of drivetrain parts BUT a high risk of the subframe cracking. A step-down from solid mounts would be polyurethane, another step-down would be TRD, and then finally OEM. As OEM are the softest and solid mounts are the hardest, and I want to go as hard as possible without going solid, I figured polyurethane would be the best option It becomes a question of preference I suppose then. If you want to sacrifice some noise + good road feel for harsher conditions by using a harder material then go for it. So long as you are targeting the correct bushes, then you will see an improvement. Just be wary that using harder materials for bushes will transmit more through the car, so if you have any other underlying issues (hubs, driveshafts) there is a risk that you will notice them more. I am just trying to convey that I believe the oem underbody setup is more than adequate to deal with wheelhop, even on higher power levels, assuming that the components are in good condition. Just don't go too hard with your choice of material Edited February 9, 2016 by Mike2JZ (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 It becomes a question of preference I suppose then. If you want to sacrifice some noise + good road feel for harsher conditions by using a harder material then go for it. So long as you are targeting the correct bushes, then you will see an improvement. Just be wary that using harder materials for bushes will transmit more through the car, so if you have any other underlying issues (hubs, driveshafts) there is a risk that you will notice them more. I am just trying to convey that I believe the oem underbody setup is more than adequate to deal with wheelhop, even on higher power levels, assuming that the components are in good condition. Just don't go too hard with your choice of material Good stuff, thanks for the help Mike! Hopefully the subframe & diff bushings/mounts will sort the axle tramp out and nothing will shake around anymore when launching! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 Quick headlight refurb today Much better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hitbox Junkie Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Quick headlight refurb today http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160210/3b615b5d14911548f73129bf88e94c18.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160210/9b6f19e6dadc53d9d0331045d3b5d1ac.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160210/0b2e151eb2a180996839c124f16dc889.jpg Much better http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160210/b2a6ed2aebdd6858af5fab1e8c3a4ef7.jpg Hover CAR!!!!!! Supra of the year 3000 Great build dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 Hover CAR!!!!!! Supra of the year 3000 Great build dude Haha yeah who needs wheels anyway thanks dude I cannot bloody wait for mapping day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 Just bought these two beauties Two 38mm Turbosmart Ultragates (as advised by my mapper) so hopefully these will arrive around the same time the turbo is ready to pick up, meaning there really isn't much left to buy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Good choice But isn't your manifold twin scroll, single gate? You should only need one gate and not 2. Or are you chopping that into 2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 Good choice But isn't your manifold twin scroll, single gate? You should only need one gate and not 2. Or are you chopping that into 2? It is indeed, however as the wastegate pipes are at a silly 180 degree angle we're chopping them off and relocating them at a 45 degree angle, also giving us a chance to modify it for twin gates Plus, as and when I do fit a proper manifold, it will also be twin gate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Nice one Will be a tight fit to get the gates sitting nice but should look great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 Today this arrived Unfortunately Driftworks or Turbosmart only sent one out to me, so I've still got to wait a few days for the other one. Bit of a pain but as I'm still waiting for the turbo I can't complain! Also contemplating ditching the OEM fan and radiator system and swapping it out for these: + Has anyone done something like this before? Is it as beneficial or more so than the stock system? I'm doing it mainly for aesthetics but I do also need a new radiator! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 (edited) I got a Koyo alley rad, if you want used. Fan kit an all. Speak with Lee P. Edited February 19, 2016 by JamieP (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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