Tricky-Ricky

Well under normal circumstances you wouldn't measure combustion temps, but pretty much all modern engine control systems use some form of AFR measurement to control fueling as std. However adding the wide-band aspect of AFR measurement is far more accurate and gives more of an idea of how the engine runs, but surely you already know this?

Depends on the specs of the Map ECU, it needs to be able to clamp the std MAP sensor voltage at just below the cut of voltage, and then be able to carry on with its own sensor to be able to map for the extra boost pressure, if it can do this then your fine.

You wouldn't, as they measure completely different aspects, one is air fuel ratio, and the other temperature.

Basically to know what the intake temp is, IE how efficiently and intercooler or intake system is functioning, also most modern ECU systems will have an IAT sensor that will fine tune mixture depending on temps. And in the exhaust to monitor that exhaust gas temps are not exceeding 950C, any more and the combustion temps are incorect, which can be caused by quite a few things.

Thermocouples are depending on construction material, much more resistant to exhaust manifold temps, and these are usually made of inconel or similar, or are you asking why use a temperature probe in a exhaust or inlet manifold? There are various types depending on application, temperature and response time, some info here.http://www.omega.co.uk/prodinfo/thermocouples.html

Are you running one of these Chris?

LOL! no chance! the GTR has a much better read intelligent gearbox and traction control, and so can get the power down far better than any Supra could.

Couldn't see any cars on that page? but it looks like the Japanese PM drew the short straw then.

As said the headlights are vented to prevent misting, check they are not blocked.

As said take it to a decent garage, its could be as simple as a heat shield or something else rattling, but at worst it could be det which will quickly kill the engine, so resist the urge to give it some beans until its been properly diagnosed.

Swear i posted on this thread last night??????? Anyway i also wish i had never sold my supra, one of the best cars i have owned, sold it to a guy from Holland who won a trophy or two with it, and then sold it on for a decent profit, AFAIK its now in Germany where i hope it gets to ter up the autobahns now and again.

Who else is the new story line really pissing off? getting so far from the original story line, and just going sensationalist,with more of the same, but i guess its it keeps you wanting to kill some of the new main characters SLOWLY! so i guess its done its job.

Yes mixing different parts calls for a thorough approach, used to do this with bike engines, and found that a small lump of Plasticine or similar was good for assessing valve to piston clearances, but don't forget to factor in expansion rates for when the engine is up to running/WOT temps.

Thanks fellas, will have a look at these suggestions and see how i get on.

Question for those that have had to do some serious interior cleaning, or valeters. The wife's sister has just given here an older Vauxhall Astra as a learner car, ......BUT its been used to transport a dog and has hardly ever been cleaned, add to that she was a smoker, so you can imagine the state of it. She has given it all a good repeated scrub, i removed the seats as well, but the plastics are still ingrained with dirt despite repeated tries, the same goes for the seats and carpets, stain's etc. So i wanted to ask if anyone could suggest a cleaner colour restorer to get the plastic back to black/grey black, and something that will shift the stubborn stains, that's not going to cost the silly money that some of the valeting products command?

I know if the lift is enough this can happen, but my understanding is that it needs considerable extra lift for this to happen, but if a cam has extended duration especially at the early opening and closing contact is more likely to happen if the belt snaps while running, especially at high RPMs. But yes i was thinking ass about face on making that comment.

Its not the lift that would make it interference...its the timing/duration that would cause this, however unless the cams where very high duration, which is not necessary with a FI engine its still unlikely.

I would suspect the chassis would start to show its weaknesses once past the 1,000-1,200 bhp/900ftlbs range. And the suspension and steering geometry after 160-180mph.

Before what happens?

Still here. although minus Supra these days, and if we are in an age competition, i am no spring chicken.

Perhaps i should add one caveat to my last comment, using very lumpy cams or higher compression and very high boost pressures will add more load to a cam belt for obvious reasons, but under normal single turbo 500 to 800BHP range a std belt should be fine.

Agreed! a std belt will be fine, BHP and engine torque output have no effect on the cam belt loading's, in fact the biggest load on a cam belt takes place at idle.

As above, just how rich are the rich AFRs?

I think you need to go and do some in depth reading on the subject of mapping, fuelling and AFRs are all to do with engine loadings as well as boost, there is no concrete AFR for a given load, there are a lot of factors that govern what any one engine will tolerate in the way of fuelling and timing advance, things like compression ratio, squish, valve timing and boost pressure all play a part in influencing how the engine behaves, Saying that an engine needs 12.5 at over 5psi is not the advice you should be listening to, most tuner's/mappers will aim for an AFR in the region of 11.2 to 11.8 at full load, however this can vary, there is quite a bit more to it.

Add only means you can only add fuel IE injector duty cycle, but if you also want to reduce the amount of fuel you need to wire for both trim/add, which on the std setup is necessary.