Tricky-Ricky

Engine and frame have now parted company, the engine has had a wash and the frame is now getting some brackets removed and others re positioned ready for paint, I have been pondering on what to do about the pipes,, i like the three into two high level look but since i will be moving the passenger foot pegs, the design has to be wife friendly, i was going to make them really short, as i am also fitting a hydraulic clutch conversion, which make the slave run right next to the pipes, but i think i will just shield the cylinder instead, and keep my fingers crossed that it doesn't over heat it. Nifty little thing though, fits just right in place of the cable and retains the original adjustment. Last pic is me trying out an idea with some old fork stanchions, and i have managed to find some slightly shorter turn out extensions on the net complete with baffles for £50, which should with the heat shield i made work OK for the pillion...i hope!

Quick update, got a few bits through, so far have cut down the old fat back mudguard, and fitted one of the Harley bobber type LED under the fender rear lights, also got a new brake master cylinder to fit under the gearbox, also have one of those cheap Chines chain tensioners to make up and weld a bracket for, and see how long it lasts...not convinced so far. Also bought a little plastic front mudguard, which should just fit with a little cutting down, so in all i recon i have shead around 30lbs off the weight in all. Just got to cut a piece of stainless pipe for the turn outs, and then the motor can come out and i can give it a good clean and then get on with some bracket welding on the frame, and then hope for slightly warmer weather so i can get on with some spraying.

Was at the dentists in Watton Norfolk yesterday and cam across a sad sight of a neglected Supra in somebodys drive, unfortunately it was wearing a full Veailside kit, don't know if it was TT or N/A, but it was sliver and was on bags by the look of the resting stance, shame as it had obviously been sitting for some time by the amount of moss under it, didn't have my phone or i would have taken a pic.

It was on a 2lt VAG engine and older ford, increased exhaust size from 1.75" to 2.5" and lost around 10bhp and 12ftlb especially in the peak torque areas, and that was a so called sport/performance exhaust with good bends and less restriction, but i don't really have any further specifics as it was a long time ago, seen similar effects on bikes, although its slightly different due the the lack of a dedicated manifold.

I'm afraid i beg to differ, i have seen first hand how much power and torque an oversized exhaust can rob using the same manifold, so if it only the manifold that has any influence i must be dreaming then.

N/A exhaust design is far more than just back pressure, which is a bit of a misnomer, they are usually designed to perform as an extraction device through pulse reversion, so length and diameter are all taken into account, however they are also a compromise because of noise and length, i would shy away from anything that increases the std diameter by more than 0.5" any larger and you will probably notice a change in where peak torque is produced and power will also suffer...been there, done that on other cars.

Also think his old car was an aerotop.

Just a little update, now the bike is indoors and nice and warm, i have started to strip it down, will be changing quite a few things as i go, will keep the pictures coming for those interested.

I did say Billet, and not cheap cast which will do that if pushed with drag starts/drift etc but then so with the long stud verity if subjected to the same abuse. i have seen long studs loosen off due to the shear/stretch/movement factor, and the wheel fall off as a result. So i guess its a lottery either way, best way is wheels with the desired offset to start with...not so much to move or break that way.

I am glad to say my wife really doesn't mind me having bikes in the house, i have built quite a few over the years, and she never complains...not sure that the cat feels the same as it doubles as his room too.

For those that are into bikes, i now have a new project that i really didn't expect, with a heavy heart i have taken on this bike T160 Triumph trident chop, due to recently loosing a very good friend, and his family has asked me to take it on and rebuild it/get it running, as there is nobody else that could, or ride it for that matter. So its been passed to me with the proviso that i build it and ride it for as long as i am able and then pass it back, however in the future i may well buy it, but just don't have the resources right now. Long story short he was involved in an accident 25-30 years ago and lost his nerve with bikes, but couldn't get rid of it, and always said he would ride again, but due to suffering servers depression in recent years, he has never got any further with it. Years ago i re spayed it and despite me trying to persuade him that the colour was just wrong, he went ahead and put it together as you see it here, and then it sat in his flat until this sad time. So to me it only fitting that i build it again and ride it as he always intended, as a kind of rolling tribute, i will be changing quite a lot of things, as there is now way i would ride that colour, and some of the styling is a little questionable, plus there are some safety aspects that need addressing. Anyway i,ll keep this updated, but don't know just how long it will take me depending on the amount of new parts needed, but its already in my breakfast room sharing with the cat, as there is no way it will fit in either of my sheds, and still have room to work. I have already decided that as a light hearted tribute the new tank with have BFG on the sides as to my wife he was always known as The Big Friendly Giant, as he was 6.7 ft and weighed 300lbs, and the wife is 5ft LOL! Anyway here is a pic before it has a quick wash.

Not quite sure why you all seem to have a preference for the type that uses a longer stud? you do realize that the longer the stud the higher the shear force is, obviously the bolt torque has a limiting factor, but i would much rather use a billet spacer with it own captive bolts, as that way the shear force is distributed between 10 much shorter bolts instead of just five long ones, and that's looking at it from an engineering point of view.

I have always used hub-centric spacers up to 25mm, decent ones are made of bilit alloy and are plenty strong, its the shear force on the studs that is the main loading, and this is offset by the quality and length of the bolts used, but in practice its should cause no real problems if the bolt length is kept low. But other than this, it is no different to using different negative offset wheels, wheel bearing load will obviously increase with large negative offsets, but they will increase the further the load point gets from the bearing.

Edited! to reflect the slight error in wording , however I'm sure people will ask questions if they intend to follow the guide to the letter.

I think you misunderstood, i was referring to those wishing to add a catch can in the simplest format, IE just to one side of the system, so i advised fitting to the low throttle side by blocking the plenum and using the cam cover that would have normally been connected to this as the source of the feed too the can, this way its not ideal but if they want to lave it vented to atmosphere its not a problem.

Just to clarify the PCV system refers to the whole system, and has nothing to do with the ECU, there seems to be some confusion here, the pcv (positive crankcase ventilation) consists of two parts, the idle/low throttle/cruse side which is covered by the right hand side cam cover which has the one way valve in that closes under boost to prevent crankcase pressurization, obviously a bad thing for gaskets/seals etc. And the high load side which is in the other cam cover, and this goes directly to the turbo intake to use the vacuum to equalize and create a small vacuum which helps with ring and oil seal sealing. If you just fit a catch can to one side and not the other then fit it to the low side 9penim side cam cover vent, and block the plenum where it connects, this may or may not help with the oil in the intake, but remember it has no vacuum if open to atmosphere. As i said the best option is to T the two cam cover breathers together and run to a sealed catch can, and use the other can outlet plumbed back into the turbo intake, this will help with excess oil mist and retain the PCV effect.

If you fit one its best to have a sealed unit and run a line back to the intake, to make the most of the engine vacum, make sure you use both the high load side and the idle/cruse, as this is the one that will produce the most oil mist. The advantages are, if properly done, keeping oil from pooling on low spots of the intake runners which gets drawn in on the first large throttle opening, and you still get the benefit of the intake vacuum effect on the oil seals etc.

I would avoid spending too much cash on a cheap stainless manifold, as if it does crack ceramic coat will be wasted, usually cracks in stainless are stress related, so make sure its well braced, and if you want to just wrap it.

Being stainless and probably quite thin, its going to get/seem hotter than a cast manifold simply because it cant dissipate the heat so well due to the mass, but in reality its not going to get any hotter than the equivalent turbo manifold.

Enjoyed it, one of the few series that kept me guessing ....for a bit! i was usually right in the direction it was going, have a hard time finding things these days that i cant see it all coming, which spoils it, liked the first series of blind spot, but its now become very predictable

My old supra and my other cars where a regular feature on google maps/earth for a couple of years, simply because they where parked on the road, somehow i don't think its a first LOL!

Could well be just condensation, but if your smelling oil it could also be turbo seals, as these will be apparent on start up and idle as there is a large vacuum in exhaust during idle, look out for smoke haze when coming off throttle after boost.

My guess is that his previous car was a 1lt 60BHP job.

Inconel comes in several grades, but is considered one of the super alloys, and has superior pressure heat and pressure capabilities.

Nice looking engine! yes set up to monitor EGTs on all cylinders, not really necessary, unless its pushing cam timing or compression limits, one at the collector, or at the turbo is usually good enough to alert you to combustion temp problems, as Chris said cam timing can play a big part in influencing EGTs despite correct AFRs.