Tricky-Ricky

Thanks guys, yes sounds familiar, but this time its my laptop and not the wife's, its an older Acer aspire, so not really worth throwing an SSD at it, i had a really bad slow down issue, so tried to reinstall windows 7 but the Microsoft software wouldn't allow me to download an iso for it so i just picked up a generic copy of ultimate and installed that, it had home premium originally that's why this one is throwing the activation card. I have always been able to get rid of all the annoying messages and other restrictions, but this time i cannot access or fin the related files i need to stop it, i think my meddling has compounded the problem, so that's why i am in the current position, although i would much rather just get rid of the problem, it would be much less hassle. Thanks Annabella (again) for the offer of help, i will PM you the details, on an activation note i thought that the pre installed versions should auto activate when the system is re installed?

I have tried the download center but it just gives a error when my product key is typed in, and it says that some pre installed versions are no longer supported, so if that's going to be the case will i have to buy another windows disc?

Long story short, i had to download windows 7 as the original became corrupted, and for some reason i could not use the windows software to download the software, so i just used a generic and got the usual "this copy of windows is not genuine" message as it wont accept the built in license! but i can get rid of and the accompanying restrictions and message, But now its come back along with some more restrictions which i cant seem to get rid of with the usual work arounds, and the files that i need to access are either not there of i cannot change despite taking control in permissions etc, and removeWAT cant access them either, any ideas? I am damned if i am going to purchase yet another version of windows.

Interesting! i have used Innovate stuff a lot in the past, always works well and reliable, that's quite a good idea, its a stand alone boost controller then it has no interface with stock CU so no problem, it will also integrate with there data loggers.

Video link was not there when i replied, yeah! i think they fitted the turbo to the cooling system.

There is no reason for the turbo core to leak water into the intake, unless it has a problem/crack.

Yeah I'm in Norfolk, and i am just watching my fences flexing horribly, just hoping the wind dies before the fences do.

Getting a little closer:D just all the fettling and checking...and the few bits that are proving a PITA!

For what you would need to spend on the cams, you will also need some adjustable pulleys to get the best from them, and you would also need to tweak the ignition timing and fueling to see good gains, and even then it would likely be 10-20bhp at most, along with moving the peak power/torque further up the rev range, you better off with going turbo, probably cost the same.

Couple of update pics with the forks, bars and tank, also added a bit of a detail panel to where the sprung seat goes, doing the same with the gusset panels at the head stock. Please excuse the bloom on the tank, it has a couple more coats to go yet.

Think i may have found a solution, apparently the ignition system can have the polarity reversed, so i may be OK..i hope!...thanks for the input guys.

LOL! that's tiny, mind you it would need to be able to handle 12-14V 10 amp.

Sorry should have said that the current will only flow from + to -, so will only light if connected this way around, which is the opposite of the ignition system.

Current will only flow in one direction through LEDs, so far the only way i can think of is to run two totally separate circuits, one for the ignition system using + earth, and one fore the lighting, horn, stop light circuits, but the problem arises with trying to switch the two circuits as one, so its either two separate switches, or a relay for one that triggered from the ignition switch....unless i can find a dual circuit ignition switch? Or a micro relay of some kind that i can cram into the small battery box??

Just run into a problem on my bike protect, the bike has to run a + earth system due to the nature oof the electronic ignition system fitted, but in my wisdom i bought a really nice LED rear light......now as we all know LEDs are current flow direction dependent, so i need to try and come up with some way of integrating both the brake light which would be relatively simple to use a separate circuit . But i also need to be able to run the the headlight on the + earth system (or do i?) and the rear on a - earth, and all running off a single ignition switch, now i guess it could be done with relays, but i am also very limited on space for things like that, as i have a small battery box that also contains all the coils ans electronics, and theres room for little else...so if any of you guys have an idea or solution i would be grateful

Well as you can see i have finally managed to get some paint on the frame, and now the engine is back in, and other bits will soon follow, just a case of waiting for some parts to arrive, and some haven't even been ordered yet, and i still have to re make the seats, but it wont be long now, just got to try and string it out until the warmer weather gets here, more progress pics to follow.

Yes if you have a vent to atmosphere BOV and its venting at very low pressures, it will affect the MAF by dropping airflow so ECU will cut fuel, first stop the BOV from venting at lower pressures, by changing the spring and see if that improves things.

Can you tell me what the AFR is at idle, and when you hold the throttle just above idle, and when you release the throttle and the revs drop

Great actor! http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-38778145

The fact that you have changed the turbo shouldn't really affect idle control, rechecking all pressure hose connections etc may reveal the problem,however i am not sure just how the UK spec ECU handles running both MAP and MAF when it comes to idle air,, i also suspect that you will see problems with trying to run this setup at the higher airflow's, that the turbo capable of supplying enough airflow for 550BHP. as this will likely trigger fuel cut, due to this, and max out the resolution of one or the other.

Thanks Shane, i am aware of the difference in the Q contract, but believe me if i do decide to knock sky on the head, i am not worried about their contract, i will just tell them to take me to court if they don't like it, i suspect that a lot of others will di the same, it certainly wont be the first or the last time i tell a company that's taking the piss to do this....and its never happened yet. If we had the US mentality sky would have a class action on their hands by now.

I watch quite a few of the discovery channels, and no its not all fly on the wall stuff, i am pretty pissed off as i am not yet a year into a sky Q contract,, not that it will stop me should i decide i want to leave, from the responses i have seen sky are going to loose a lot of customers over this, stupid move just to try and make more money, and its going to backfire on them big time.

Coolant swirl pots are generally intended for high RPMs as the water pump can cause cavitation at high RPM which gives rise to air locks in the system, so rather over kill on a road car.

Forgot to add that i always found my supra to be one of those cars that you look down at the speedo and think shit! am i really going that quick, it always felt stable an comfortable

Have to agree with Jamie on his comment, Sorry but have to suggest you may be better off with a Micra...its a bit like buying a race horse and putting it in front of a cart.