m12aak

Sounds odd for sure, hopefully it's something simple. Have you checked all the fuses are in/unbroken (I'm sure you would have, but just in case!) Sounds like it could just be a broken fuse not supplying any power, as I believe the stalk still provides signals even when the fuse is blown. If it's not that, I'd probably be taking a look at the 'Body Electrical' service manual for further diagnostics and failing that, the wiring diags.

Have you looked at the wiring diagrams to see what the small plug is for? I would assume that the wiring is the same between JDM and US spec cars with the amplifier so the harness you've shown will probably work. I've had a quick look and it looks like the wires match up off that plug R6 (the bigger one) which leads to the amplifier, but wiring is definitely not my strong point, so i'd check yourself too.

I haven't owned mine for very long at in comparison to many of you here (3.5 years NA, 1.5 years TT6), but I won't unless forced to do so, and even in that instance hopefully it'd only need to be one. I adore driving my NA daily, so it'd have to be an extremely difficult situation that'd change me not having at least one. I'm well aware that once I get a bit older (only turned 22 in June) i'll have to move out and 'become a proper adult' lol, but I'm already saving ahead for that etc., so fingers crossed I won't encounter anything that'll force a sale. Also, I haven't really driven my TT6 and had that experience yet as it's a stock RZ-S on 16's, whereas my NA has UK brakes, 17's, Bilsteins & Eibachs etc., so to drive it's a much more enjoyable experience (except for power). At the moment i'm just buying parts to put them all at once (hopefully spring next year) and start using her as well. The only time I could see me maybe letting go is if the TT6 hits 911 996.2/997 GT3 or Aston DBS money (fat chance of that happening, I know!) I can understand though why some who have seen their cars double, triple and even quadruple in price would be considering selling, especially if not being used often.

Cheers mate, I'll get some to keep on hand for when I next need it

I don't think they are, and they're still available new for £6.13 on Amayama (although without shipping and taxes), so £6 each posted is a fair price IMO.

Ah okay yep, thanks for the reply, much appreciated.

Nice! What did you use to remove the tiger seal? I had to remove some off some skirts and spats before I re-fit them properly with 3M LSE tape and it took me hours!

Old fluid for sure. It was black and smelt burnt, probably hadn't been done in well over a decade, same with the coolant. From what I understand my NA was in daily use since import (2003) until about 2016, then it was driven on the odd weekend until I bought it, so I think it's more lack of a service rather than sitting. I did a flush using this method (@shaz2010 - this might be helpful if you want to flush your system once you find the issue), thinking i'd caught it in time but the whining got progressively worse. White spirit etc. wouldn't shift the crud in the bottom so I just fitted a good used one and coupled with the rebuilt pump it's sorted now. If your fluid is still red/sweet and has been changed somewhat regularly I don't think it'll be an issue you'd experience.

My NA reservoir was very blocked and was starving my pump for a little while before I sent it to Chris Wilson to be rebuilt. He said there was evidence of cavitation but it was rebuildable and it’s been fine for coming up to two years now, so I think it should be okay, maybe only a rebuild at the very most (if it’s not a seal in the pump that has gone)

According to gov.uk (https://vehicleenquiry.service.gov.uk/?locale=en) the last logbook was in 2016 and it was last MOT'd last year (it's SORN now), so it's probably just tucked away in someone's garage, appreciating. I fortunately have not sold a car I've owned yet, and I certainly don't plan on parting with either of mine, but I can imagine it's a tough/annoying feeling. Have you got any plans to purchase another one in the future?

Ah ok, iirc both my JDM NA and TT are the same as on the right, the one on the left looks to be an early cap between 1993/05 to 1994/05, part no: 44305-24030. I don't think the type of cap will affect your issue though as it should screw on and seal the same and wouldn't foul the reservoir (obviously) as it's shorter, so you should be fine, ignore my previous comment. Although once the issue is sorted I'd try using your old one again as the level height does look different. Keep us posted, hopefully it all it needs is a bleed.

There's a common leak location on the return side (I fortunately haven't had this issue yet on either car though) which Keron sells a repair hose for if it is that:

The reservoir isn't very deep so I would have thought your new one would be touching the bottom and has maybe punctured the filter? And it looks like the new 'Cold' is lower than the original so the reading is different and would be wrong. I'd go back to your dealer and make sure you get a like for like replacement. You can jack the car up and turn the wheels with the engine off to help bleed it, and the same again with the engine on. The TSRM says this:

I'd advise you get the tyres fitted and balanced before they're ceramic coated (I presume that's what you're looking at), otherwise the wheel weights won't stick to the coated surface properly and you may need to compound/polish the coating off to make them stick. I don't know what the best coating is for wheels but I'm sure there are a fair few detailers about who can recommend something. I follow Obsessed Garage on YT and Matt over there recommends two coats of Carpro DLUX topped with Gliss V2 for wheels, (I have no idea how well it lasts etc., as I haven't used it yet), but it should be a good solution for a non-professional to use and apply. There will be professional only coatings that will last longer out there too, like Modesta BC-06 and Gtechniq Crystal Serum Ultra.

My TT6 (0039956) is the same as yours; a facelift non-VVTi. I had no idea there were more 'switchover' facelifts made than VVTI TT6's, interesting! It was a middle of March 1997 build. My NA (0034313) on the other hand is a very late January 1996 build so it has the black carpet and headliner, but everything else is non-facelift.

I measured mine a while back and I use 20” passenger and 21” drivers at the front and 19 inch at the rear, although I think the stock size is 18 inch. It’s not an issue though if you use a slightly larger size, if your wiper blade is more flexible and can contact the window fully. I use Bosch Aerotwin retrofit wipers on all cars, they’re great and are about £10 each on eBay.

Chris Wilson also rebuilds them, my NA PS reservoir was choking out my pump so I had CW rebuild the pump and I got a good used reservoir from Keron. I'd make sure it's 100% the pump that is the issue and it's not just a blocked reservoir first (if you haven't already). Iirc it was around £150 for CW to rebuild it.

Hi, I'll take all three of the boot plastics, and the front suspension spacer rings. Could you PM me to sort the extra shipping cost and payment please? Cheers

Mine has also started to do that on the NA (albeit not to that extent). I believe it's caused by the dash warping. I've just checked and that vent looks to be discontinued (55981-14010) so I would be extremely careful if removing it or opt to leave it as is, just in case. I've never looked into how you'd remove it but the part diag. (below) appears to show some clips that it probably slots into and then it is pressure fit into the hole in the dash/the HVAC duct. Hopefully someone can chime in and confirm/deny this and possibly offer a fix!

Thanks mate, I definitely will do!

I'm up for this! I've never attended a club organised meet so far, it'll be nice to put a face to (user) names, as long as you're okay with me bringing up the rear in the NA . I unfortunately won't have the time/money to get the brakes, wheels and suspension sorted for the TT6 by the 25th, so it doesn't make sense to bring it. I'll be interested in staying in Shrewsbury the night before also to save a two hour journey in the morning on the Saturday.

Brilliant write up, she's certainly one of the nicest almost fully stock examples on the forum. The work Paul Cheshire has been doing is incredible!

Looking great! Have you got the OEM undertrays at the front? If not, that'll probably be reason for the flex as the bumper mounts to it in many places at the bottom too. Having the undertrays should fix both the bumper and the splitter flex (although I'd imagine the splitter would still flex a tad).

The cam seals aren't affected when the covers come off as there is a bearing cap holding them in on either side, so you should have no issues. I'd probably replace the cover gaskets while your there though (if they haven't been done recently).

That'd be great, it'd definitely be useful to have a confirmed list of differences and photos to refer back to