mellonman
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Everything posted by mellonman
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was it just that once or does it do it every time its cold?
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Yeah the seats was nice . Did they sell it or is that tv bs
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Wow it must have broke down straight after it was finished did you not have a come back on the fitter ? Glad to hear it's back running some faults can take time if Intermittent I was chasing down a misfire for about 2 years which turnt out to be a connector in the passenger foot well . Still hopefully that's the end of the issues and you can enjoy it
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I was using the club one and then realised it was for a us spec and every junction box was on the other side of the car wasted about 2 hours still the penny dropped lol
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behind the side boot plastic with the light , its on the inside ie between the outside rear quarter and boot frame work , check your voltages there should be 9v and 12v
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as you see on the drawing there is a ac pressure switch also in the same line as the coolent switch , if the coolent swich bypass does not work then you will have to check that switch next being its also in the system you have removed .
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I remember back in the day people would move away from the vvti heads for the none vvti . not sure why but im sure modern ecus are a factor
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I had a am2 fuse blow with a earth fault which left me with a none crank situation .
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nice to see it add a decent amount of spool, great result
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I just do the long stays as well now its just easier and less agro
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It is just a switch here is the drawing .
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Im pretty sure the sensor is just a temperature switch . You can short out the contacts in the loom plug and this should stop the fan running.if not then you might have a broken wire in the loom or a bad relay.
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when the sensor plug at the bottom of the radiator is disconnected it makes this fan run constantly . I do this to help with cooling on the track for the auto box fyi
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10.5 is very rich and you would only even want to be that rich when on full boost if at all, 14 should be most of your day to day driving part throttle , 12-11 making decent boost anything over maybe 0.4 WOT. on over run when lifting off the injectors are shut off so would go full lean then may jump back up at set rpm to stop stalling ultimately your map should not have changed but your sensors may have degraded over time , so if your map was good 10 years ago it should be still good now as long as the ecu is still good.
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surrey rolling road has long gone
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do you know what afr your running at the rpm check point? I remember seeing somewhere being too lean can lead to more hydro carbons blar blar blar but im unsure on what afr is best to pass a mot test im very sure the information is out there
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First thing I would do is check your coolant level.
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If you can spin it and stays spinning for a few seconds its dbb
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Hello
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I got a yaris tsport in mine
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If your reading it correctly then maybe the sensor has completely failed if giving no reading at all
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Hybrid/highflow twin turbos VS small single turbo setup
mellonman replied to Rashed's topic in Supra Chat
And more reliable hybrids don't tend to last in my experience -
Stock front bumpers, window rubbers,stock 17 inch wheels, pre facelift engine mounts, abs sensors ,
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are you reading right http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?35940-Narrowband-O2-Sensor
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try it and your find out
