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SRD to the rescue...!


Brazil
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I have to say if I paid someone for a professional engine rebuild and it shat itself within a couple of thousand miles I would be expecting it to be repaired unless I was using it on the race track.

 

Unless it was an external component not handled in the rebuild then Not my fault guv is not acceptable, there has to be accountability.

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Also sorry to read this, been some bad luck in this build. But I believe the default is to refer to Mr Wilson. He's got untold years of experience, he built the engine, he knows it inside and out.

Also, if you can afford it, send the car to SRD and get it finished to a high standard, then collect, as mentioned before.

 

Thirdly, happy birthday lol.

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mate I am so very sorry to see this , after everything you have gone through !

I would have to say get rid of it there is something with that car 2 engines in 1000 miles is just sickening and a bitter pill for anyone to just swollow,

If you have the money then get chris to have a look again at it . Chris is a honourable man and im sure that if there is anything he can do to help he would.

 

have a nice birthday and try to forget all about it and enjoy your self

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Id expect the engine builder to sort this tbh. Absolutely no way this should have happened after a few thousand miles, clutch in on starting or not.......

 

What the first post doesn't make clear, and I'm making.g an assumption here, is that the engine was built in England, then shipped on a crate to Portugal. It was installed by a garage, who were responsible for installing it and running it in.

 

Now, I'm not laying the blame on anyone in particular, just explaining we shouldn't be pointing fingers without all of the facts. ;)

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Id expect the engine builder to sort this tbh. Absolutely no way this should have happened after a few thousand miles, clutch in on starting or not.......

 

You've not read the thread very carefully then. Also there are terms applied by the engine builder which the customer accepts as part of the deal. The engine builder has stated that the clutch fitment could have easily been incorrect, something that is outside of his control. And if it was fitted without slack, from what I'm reading, it would have been constantly causing an issue whilst the engine was running.

 

I think everyone feels sorry for the owner but I can't see how the engine builder is to blame. Very c*#p situation for Brazil to be in :(

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What the first post doesn't make clear, and I'm making.g an assumption here, is that the engine was built in England, then shipped on a crate to Portugal. It was installed by a garage, who were responsible for installing it and running it in.

 

Now, I'm not pointing the blame at anyone in particular, just explaining we shouldn't be pointing fingers without all of the facts. ;)

 

The same garage in Portugal are also responsible for killing the first engine, which was completely standard, and apparently healthy before the work was undertaken?

 

I believe it was something to do with the Oil cooler kit? Installing a one way valve the wrong way round or something similar, I could never make out exactly what had happened. To be honest after that, id have taken the car somewhere else.

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If i were to do this i'd go to one place with the best rep and they would do the whole job

so no third parties involved no matter how small then there's no argument regarding

who's to blame should anything go wrong

 

Keep your chin up Luiz, get on that boat and take a hot chick out for a few days ;)

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Thrust washers dont just fall out like. Sure i thought at the start of the thread it was to do with the cam covers being polished incorrectly.... #clutchingatstraws

 

The person you're talking about is the leading authority on these engines in the UK. And don't you believe that an abrasive media can be abrasive? :conf:

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I am happy to help where I can, but I feel the most likely scenario is there was no free play in the clutch release and a constant preload on the thrusts has dried out the oil film and they have picked up. Just guessing, too many parties involved now, with actual hands on, moral advice and opinion. Of course the distance factor does not assist. I never warranty part engine builds, nor builds where I do not see the whole job through, including fitting and overseeing start up and mapping. The warranty situation was made clear and although this is set in stone I am happy to see if I can help in other ways. If Luiz feels he wishes to continue I guess pulling the engine and taking off the upper sump to get at the crank is the next step.

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So sorry to read this fella. I feel your pain.

 

This is the risk with modified cars, we have a great community here that Im sure will assist in anyway they can but it is always a risk when so many parties are involved.

 

Im with what Jamie suggested, get a know running long block and put that in it so you can enjoy the car.

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I have been phoning around my contacts and I have found this issue is not as uncommon as I thought. Toyota Team Europe had a series of engine failures that were traced to race clutches being set up wrong with a permanent preload on the thrusts. they destroyed several billet cranks and trick blocks before they found a mal-machined bearing carrier had been forcing the release bearing permanently against the clutch cover, pre-loading the thrusts and wiping out the oil film. Some race Ferrari engines had similar issues when custmers failed to adjust the clutc clearance to accommodate wear. I also heard of two Skyline engines suffering thrust ejection, or huge crank end floiat for the same reason. I am 90% sure this will be the reson the thrusts picked up and were ejected. It's ESSENTIAL all clutches have float in the pedal and are not set up to leave the bearing permanently against the cover fingers. race clutches can put huge preloads on the thrusts and still not slip. If Luiz decides to proceed with a repair I feel he must ensure pedal push rod and Giken linkage are set up to give some bearing to cover clearance with the pedal up. 99% of engines I build I get to fit and set up, and I always check for free play in both mechanical and hydraulic clutch setups. If the garage is not experienced with these mega clutches they can get caught out by not checking for this. It's really the only reason thrusts will wear excessively or be ejected. In all the 2JZ-GTE engines I have built the production tolerances are such that in tolerance end float "just happens" but I always check, and Luiz, your engine was in the middle of the factory specs for end float, well within tolerance, from my notes. There really is no other feasible reason for the thrust washers to do this. With no load on the clutch cover the crank's thrust washers have a very easy life.

 

Hope this helps...

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I start cars with the clutch pedal down, I always have :blink: Including my Supra with an RPS street max clutch for the last 12 years. Not seen a problem yet...

 

That's just for a short duration, but still bad practice. With no end float in the clutch release it's like driving with pedal permanently depressed a bit *ALL THE TIME* the engine's running!

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