Brazil Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 On this oil groove, i dont have a photo but the mechanic told me that there was glue blocking the flow of oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Im no professional but that looks rather terminal. Terrible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Looks dead to me, what's the old engine like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneW Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 OMG, even the cams aren't reusable, am I right by thinking that if the cams are damaged, it means there is no more parts ok in an engine... ?? Do you know now from where was the low oil pressure ? The bad clutch adjustment doesn't explain this, this was an other problem I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 You'll be doing well to even save the cams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtleshead Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 The 'Glue' is supposed to be there. It's silicone sealant used to stop the front main caps leaking, it's not an oil groove it's a groove to give the sealant somewhere to form a ridge. Cams looks dead to me, as does just about eveything else. Sorry for your loss bud! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 I will need to think very well I what I wish todo next now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Picture 6... You dropped your SWAG #YOLO Sorry couldn't resist. On a side note how much would Jurgen charge to import you a stock VVTI lump from Japan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Picture 6... You dropped your SWAG #YOLO Sorry couldn't resist. On a side note how much would Jurgen charge to import you a stock VVTI lump from Japan? New UK spec comes in at £10,400 according to my local parts plus vat !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 I think I need a new head too? What you guys think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 I'm no engine builder but it looks scrap to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 There was some scoring on the cam journals originally, presumably from the previous oil issues, but now I have seen the photos it looks like the engine has been run on sand, not oil! The cam journals don't see that much loading, but the scoring will lead to more oil bypass, and lower pressure for a given flow rate. I am thinking there is something contaminating the oil system, and my immediate suspect would be the cam covers. There's definitely been some abrasive material in the oil, the thing's ground itself to destruction. What's the inside of the oil pump like? If you change the head I'd be in no rush to find a VVTi one, the gains are not significant and cam choice limited. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonR24 Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 There was some scoring on the cam journals originally, presumably from the previous oil issues, but now I have seen the photos it looks like the engine has been run on sand, not oil! The cam journals don't see that much loading, but the scoring will lead to more oil bypass, and lower pressure for a given flow rate. I am thinking there is something contaminating the oil system, and my immediate suspect would be the cam covers. There's definitely been some abrasive material in the oil, the thing's ground itself to destruction. What's the inside of the oil pump like? If you change the head I'd be in no rush to find a VVTi one, the gains are not significant and cam choice limited. Can the surfaces not be smoothed out again? And the cylinders bored out to fit larger Pistons? I only ask as I'm not an engine builder and am really curious and surely that would be better than a whole new engine? Especially if that's going to be built too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 The block could take another bore, there's a further oversize piston commonly available. But the damage around the thrust faces of the main cap and block region that hold the thrust washers would be the deciding factor. Can't tell from photos, they would need measuring and checking for flatness. I don't think Toyota list oversized thrust washers but i may be wrong. let me look.... No, only standard thickness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitz Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Ah Windows '98. We meet again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 The block could take another bore, there's a further oversize piston commonly available. But the damage around the thrust faces of the main cap and block region that hold the thrust washers would be the deciding factor. Can't tell from photos, they would need measuring and checking for flatness. I don't think Toyota list oversized thrust washers but i may be wrong. let me look.... No, only standard thickness. Chris you mention about the polished cam covers but you fitted the covers yourself did you not check; how don't you know for sure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 I didn't take the rivetted in baffles out, no. I just washed them out in the Grease |Eater. I am only guessing at a possible source of contamination. I have no idea if they were bead blasted, soda blasted, walnut shell blasted, not blasted, or how they were processed and polished, just speculation and my trying to help. You have the build photos, the engine was hot tanked, then bare head and block had the oilways steamed and rifle brushed out. Then steamed again and hot air dried. I presumed the covers were OK internally, having come off a running engine, that's really the polishers job. But it certainly looks like something gritty has been through the lubrication system from the photos. That "glue" is the smear of Loctite sealant on the front cam caps, to stop the head / cap joint leaking externally, as someone has already pointed out. I may have a good crank coming in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneW Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) Is it yet possible to filter your oil ? Or to make a component test of it ? You could directly see what was the abrasive component... Sand, metal, ... EDIT : Hum there is already in your oil..., at least if you find sand, soda, ... or smth else ! Edited February 10, 2015 by WayneW (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 Good idea I will look into that; does anybody know of any labaratory that can do these tests? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneW Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Hum not in your aera.. Ask your oil reseller ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 I am almost totally convinced I will break it; looking at Mercedes AMG models e,c, sl class! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Thats such a shame. Take your time and think about it before the vultures decend and start hounding you for parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 I am almost totally convinced I will break it; looking at Mercedes AMG models e,c, sl class! Can't blame you, you have put up with more than I would have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 You can get a full Aristo VVTI Engine with auxiliaries for 1699$+shipping... Comes out at 2000-2300$ depending on company that sells the Engine. If you add tax etc it will work out at 2000-2300€ and you'd have a fully working engine and car that will hold 700bhp. IMHO that would be the cheapest option for now. After the car is running you could still upgrade the new engine if you want to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 You can get a full Aristo VVTI Engine with auxiliaries for 1699$+shipping... Comes out at 2000-2300$ depending on company that sells the Engine. If you add tax etc it will work out at 2000-2300€ and you'd have a fully working engine and car that will hold 700bhp. IMHO that would be the cheapest option for now. After the car is running you could still upgrade the new engine if you want to. The aristo engine has the sump in a different location! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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