NOW BEING UPDATED AS I GO>>>>>Transplant engine now knocking, help please

[Supra Gaz]

I hope it's not serious dude, keep us updated.

[DodgyRog]

Well I messaged Paul as he had been viewing the thread last night several times and again this morning

 

I knew there was no warranty from him on 2nd hand parts, he did point this out, but I took the chance stupidly, so it is down to me

 

He is unable to help as such, he has offered to do the parts at cost which is very generous, but the labour would be down to me on top, so guess it's left to me.

 

I am not intending to start a Dispute, as I knew the No Warranty thing from the start, but least to say I won't be trading with Whifbitz again

Edited July 4, 2013 by DodgyRog (see edit history)

[mellonman]

thats abit harsh you cant really blame whifbitz,

its a second hand engine who knows whats its done paul is not going to be able to know as like anyone else , can only check as much as you can without taking it apart

[marc_p]

Well I messaged Paul as he had been viewing the thread last night several times and again this morning

 

I knew there was no warranty from him on 2nd hand parts, he did point this out, but I took the chance stupidly, so it is down to me

 

He is unable to help as such, he has offered to do the parts at cost which is very generous:rolleyes:, but the labour would be down to me on top, so guess it's left to me as I won't be taking it back to Paul

 

I am not intending to start a Dispute, as I knew the No Warranty thing, but least to say I won't be trading with Whifbitz again

 

It is a sh1t situation and I do feel for you mate, but you can't do a warranty on 2nd hand parts without a pre-purchase strip down and rebuild, it could bankrupt a company, when Paul dropped the engine in, it was running fine.

 

This is why when I did my NA-TT conversion on my Aero, I had my full TT6 that I had been using to drive around in for a few months to make sure everything was perfect, also allowed for a full shell strip and swap on the cars so everything was correct for a TT, admittedly, this was a very expensive way of doing it, but the only way I could see of me getting a good engine and running gear.

[DodgyRog]

thats abit harsh you cant really blame whifbitz,

its a second hand engine who knows whats its done paul is not going to be able to know as like anyone else , can only check as much as you can without taking it apart

 

I don't really see how it's harsh

 

I have pointed out I knew about the No Warranty on 2nd Hand Parts

 

If you had spent over £4000 in total and ended up here 8 months and a couple thousand miles later, would you continue trading with the same company

 

Anyway, I don't want this to be a slagging match against or for Whifbitz, Paul has Pm'ed me back with his offer of parts at cost and I have declined

 

The thread was started as I have an Issue with my Engine not a Dispute Thread and I have tried to be careful in my wording etc to not make it sound like one

Edited July 4, 2013 by DodgyRog (see edit history)

[TT Paul]

read the whole thread so far sounds bad, i've been there 20k on a na tt don't ask!! sold it then bought my current tt eng swaps are a pain and can go south.. best of luck mate

try all the advice write em down go through it in a logical order posting what you done/found and i hope some one will go ahh thats the ...

 

i know your in a deep hole but don't make it deeper try and stay at the top, and putting an na lump in would at least get it going and then you can look at eng even learn abit

 

it could be worse and better just remeber the club will help the force is strong..

[Scooter]

thats abit harsh you cant really blame whifbitz,

its a second hand engine who knows whats its done paul is not going to be able to know as like anyone else , can only check as much as you can without taking it apart

 

...and if its a loose crank pulley or alternator pulley bearing then he'll be back in the good books?

 

Rog, I think you need to stop trying to fix it all in 10 mins and just get stuck in and do what you personally can before reassessing things...

[The Raven]

In good faith they must be willing to atleast look at it for free?

[supra joe]

In good faith they must be willing to atleast look at it for free?

[Noz]

There are currently 20 users browsing this thread.

 

Blimey dude!

 

Well I only texted you a few days ago and now this. I think without knowing what the problem is, it can't be down to whifbitz to solve. Perhaps find the fault and see if Paul would do a deal on the parts. At this stage its VERY early to ask for his help I think. He can't do much from London. He may offer some sort of help if theres parts he has to solve this issue.

 

At this time he can't come and solve it for you. So before you jump to conclusions find the fault.

 

I'm only down the road, so if you need a helping hand let me know I'll pop down on the weekend?

 

So the first plan is removing the oil? Then the belt.... I'd go belt first (maybe I read it wrong) that way you can drop the oil out and not worry about throwing it back in. Did I read correct that you now have an oil leak? As you need to find the source

 

In good faith they must be willing to atleast look at it for free?

 

Rog has already said he can't get it there dude

[Littler]

Taking on board all the advice given Rog I'd say take a day to relax and think it through, then if it was me I'd do things in this order:

 

- I'd drop the oil first to see if there's anything there as running the engine to test the other things could make it worse?

- Also cut the oil filter in half to see what's in there if anything

- Put new oil and a new filter in (really bad luck on the leaky bottle...if i've read that right?)

- Run without the belt

- Check the crank pulley

- Take the cam cover off to see if the cams gears and belt are ok

- Do the screw driver check

 

 

Really sorry to read the trouble your having dude, your Supra is stunning! I'm not one for a body kitted Supra but yours is one that has started to changed my opinion

 

I've got my fingers crossed for a simple fix

Edited July 4, 2013 by Littler (see edit history)

[DodgyRog]

I am going to start looking at it, but it's raining at the moment

 

If Paul did offer to look at it free I am not sure I could take him up on it due to distances involved, it's the best part of a 500 mile round trip, it wouldn't exactly be free for me

 

That's obviously not Paul's fault in any way, I choose to go there in the first place

 

I need to try and eliminate a few things and try and narrow down the issue for a start

[JamieP]

Hard pill to swallow, but you cant blame whifbitz, nobody would supply warranty on a used 15 year old engine.

 

Things might not be as bad as you think yet, get that oil dropped.

[JasonR24]

Hard pill to swallow, but you cant blame whifbitz, nobody would supply warranty on a used 15 year old engine.

 

Did they test the engine before purchase? isnt that standard practise?

 

anyway good luck with getting this sorted. i know crap like this isnt what anybody wants

[ashbuster]

so these engines dont get checked over?

[DodgyRog]

Hard pill to swallow, but you cant blame whifbitz, nobody would supply warranty on a used 15 year old engine.

 

I agree JP

 

I am not trying to blame Paul, I took the risk, I knew that there was No Warranty

 

Paul's offer was what it was and I am in no way in a situation to be able to take him up on it.

 

If the engine does need a rebuild and I can ever afford it, it will be going to LeeP at SRD, he's never had a penny off me (yet)

 

I was planning to take it there for the Turbo's to be changed and he has been nothing but really helpful and all I keep seeing is total praise for his work

[DodgyRog]

Did they test the engine before purchase? isnt that standard practise?

 

anyway good luck with getting this sorted. i know crap like this isnt what anybody wants

 

so these engines dont get checked over?

 

I was told it was checked over and compression tested etc and everything was good

 

I tried to ask all the right questions, not sure if I did

 

I know Paul is still watching the thread on and off, as you would expect, maybe he would be better to answer what checks are generally carried out

 

Paul just so you know, I am trying not to let this get into a slagging match for and against Whifbitz, I know I took the risk on a 2nd hand engine

Edited July 4, 2013 by DodgyRog (see edit history)

[Scooter]

 

I need to try and eliminate a few things and try and narrow down the issue for a start

 

that's the spirit, get that belt off and have a good feel of each pulley before you start it up.

The crank pulley I doubt you can move by hand, but get you fingers on the top thin section nearest the block and lever it to check for play/looseness

The tensioner and aircon pulleys should be very free

The water pump, alternator and Power steering pumps slight less so but none should feel rough/loose/wobbly.

 

Then it's a start up and check with the rod etc to try and pin point the noise...just don't run it for long.

[Supra Gaz]

We are all jumping to the conclusion the engine is fubar.

Lets eliminate the crank pulley and check the oil. Nothing can be assumed until that is done.

 

I don't think Paul can be held to account here as a few have said, it's a second hand engine that has just done a little tour over the channel, you can only tell so much without stripping an engine down.

Modifying cars is expensive, we all know this, it is unfortunate when things go wrong, at the end of the day it is steel and plastic, something will eventually break down and need money spending on. You have to keep a few quid aside for those rainy days.

 

I hope it is a minor issue, pulley etc. good luck.

[ripped_fear]

Sorry to hear this rog, after your emails the other week i was hoping it would be opk now, anything i can do to help give me a pm!

[Robert]

Sorry to hear your troubles mate.

 

As a few others have said, I feel your pain too but you live and learn.

 

Im sure we could organise a few of us to come down and give a hand if you get really stuck. I'd even come down from London to help.

[TheTurtleshead]

First thing is to determine if the engine is fubar'd. Then if it is my course of action in your position would be;

 

-See if Paul would agree to swap it back to an N/A for you as a show of good faith.

-Sell all the turbo bits, I.e. Decats, intercooler etc.. Then salvage usable parts from the engine, I.e. block for rebuild, head if it's still good, etc. Sell those parts and put the money aside/ Treat Jen for a bit like you mentioned.

-Keep enjoying the car as a running N/A, then when you have the money in a year or two, look for another TT lump or a V8 and give it some power again. Or possibly build an N/A-T up to around 400HP and be done with it knowing it's a cheap fix if you nuke the N/A engine!

 

This car has real presence now it's sporting those wheels. Looked evil following Fitz and I on the road on DB.

 

Don't give up Rog. The car has come a long way an you know you still love it really

Edited July 4, 2013 by TheTurtleshead (see edit history)

[The-Plethora]

I think you need a day or two away from it to start with Rog, it's understandble to get frustrated with it all but don't lose hope. There have been 2 times when I thought it was game over and the supra was on the scrap heap. First the engine coolant was bubbling in the expansion bottle (oooh nooo head gasket gone), it was actually an air lock and no problems since. Then a really nasty sounding engine sound and again I was convinced it was curtains, turned out to be knackered bearings on the air con pump. I'm at work so can't listen to the vid bet the aux belt removal for a few mins is a good bet if you haven't already done so. Hopefully someone close by can pop in and give a quick opinion, hope you get it sorted.

[Swampy442]

Belt off first, eliminate any of the pulleys, then drop the oil, that would be my personal plan of attack.

[JamieP]

Did they test the engine before purchase? isnt that standard practise?

 

anyway good luck with getting this sorted. i know crap like this isnt what anybody wants

 

Aside from doing a full strip down and rebuild there is no way to check the condition of the big end bearings.