Tricky-Ricky

I have had the Firefox add on loaded for some time, but my photobucket pics are still not visible?

Toyota bodywork not so prone to rust as the Nissan, the 2JZ is inherently stronger than the RB, and will take far more tuning without protest, Skyline parts used to command higher prices, but i think that has now even up, but if the Skyline look is more your taste then you need to go for that.

The more outside/cold air you can get into the intake the better, the colder the air the denser it is, which equals more fuel, however the size of the intake was designed to accommodate more than the maximum amount of air required by the engine in its normal configuration, so i doubt that adding two intakes will make a difference.

I had a similar problem with Lidl, so i found the email address of the CEO and sent him the details, received a letter back saying i would hear no more, is the parking controlled by McDonalds or the parking company?

Lets be realistic, any vehicle that is still on the road or back on the road after forty years is going to be completely restored and cherished, and if anyone is into vehicle restoration they will know that said vehicle is likely to be in better than new condition in both structural and mechanical, anything else is just going to be a pile of rust.

Seems nobody's safe from zombies!

I am surprised at the difference, though it was less, are you going for increased rev limit then? i very much doubt you would notice any difference with stock limit.

More bulk to hydraulic lifters, and sod all in it with solid/shimless, also not sure the 2jz was ever designed to run hydraulic lifters so you may find there wouldn't be enough room to drill block and head.

For hydraulic lifters you would need oil galleries drilled etc, not an easy job and i doubt you would find anyone willing to do the job, also hydraulics are usually replaced when raising the rev limit, the std shims being under bucket are designed that way to prevent shim spitting at high RPM anyway.

If you have built Ford engines you can build your 2JZ, its not rocket science, and essentially they are no different, if the crank has been properly ground and the correct bearings supplied then there should be no need to plactiguage the the journals, so should be a straightforward assembly, what is it that's bothering you about building it?

I always used to run the important sensor earths to the same earth point as the ECU this ensures there are no discrepancy in the readings due to increased resistance from bad earth paths.

By what you said about the injector leads, i would still say its down partly to that and a vacuum leak, as for the map is there a way to completely reset the ECU and just take it elsewhere to be mapped, the original mappers sound rather pathetic,after all mapping is not rocket science.

I would first try replacing the ECU coolant temp sensor, this will influence cold start considerably, i also cant see why the EMU should be a problem with lumpy cams either, although most piggybacks don't interface with the auto ECU well, but i would also expect the idle speed to be more on an auto.

Personally i always considered the level warning light not only a very useful thing to have as not many cars have them, but it did save my engine when my FMS failed, noticed it and managed to stop the engine before i lost all the oil, it can happen very quickly, so after that, i added an ultra bright LED to the circuit for safety.

Dead easy to make from a thin sheet of stainless or alloy.

The wife and i both have Yoga tab3s for over a year now, they work well with no problem, think we paid about £120 each for 8" version.

Pretty much normal then!

Mod a Skyline forum, and visit about three other car related forums, and three bike related along with two AV forums, and a daily quiz...sad really.

Quick update and some pics that will actually show (THANKS PHOTOBUCKET!:apoke:)!Did a quick tank repaint, just a rattle can job so not perfect but will do for now, also just took the misses out for the first time...loved it...apart from the large bumps, doing well, hard tails at our age.

I have used Bluprint and other third party parts for years, on lots of different cars without any issues whatsoever, by the appearance of the disc i would be inclined to say that the overheat issue was down to pads binding causing the discs to overheat long before the brakes where applied in earnest, and subsequent crash. Most brakes rotors and pads apart from carbon will end up loosing braking power once certain temps are exceeded, the same could have happened with any make including OEM.

My TT used to test in the region of 200psi, not something i would worry about.

The drop in depression could indicate a small leak, so a combination of incorrect fuel pressure and a leak could cause a lean mixture, i thought the default on any ECU for a failed or faulty lambda was to run the fueling rich for safety.

Mine is still working OK, just read the updated terms and it seems as soon as you go over you free account limit you are then liable to pay to use your account.

I have fitted then in several different orientations, it shouldn't make any difference as the oil flow is always under pressure when the engine is running.

Agreed! i would as i said before just T the two cam cover breathers together (presuming the one way valve has been removed) or if you have a catch can that can take two inlets and one outlet use both, and just run the outlet back to the turbo intake, the can if baffled or filled with stainless scourers, coupled with the long pipe runs will allow for most of the oil vapor to drop out, and not be detrimental to the combustion process. It will also help with ring seal and engine oil seals, and still comply with your country's emissions laws, here is a pic of my old setup. The catch can when emptied only contained a small amount of oil and mostly water from condensation.