Tricky-Ricky

This link as mentioned earlier in this thread http://my.is/forums/f114/tech-info-difference-between-ge-vvti-gte-vvti-oil-pump-437894/ Shows the drain holes in the VVTI pumps don't think they are any different to the non VVTI as far as the drain holes are concerned, my memory is not spot on but i think the std size of the drain is 3 or 4mm and it can be opened up to 5 or 6mm but it may be wise to check, maybe CW will know for sure. As said i think the pump goes on with sealer and you just need a new FMS but don't press this in any further than the edge of its seating aperture IE level as you risk obscuring the drain hole, it should be a good tight press fit.

The ideal type would be front and rear that are connected to a GPS system that flicks them up every time you are near a camera position...just in case;) totally illegal mind, or even better plates that could be made to go completely yellow/white.

If it is down to this how do you explain the sheer amount of oil that is expelled when the seal failed, since the oil can only escape from the around the drive gear that the crank runs through, but i see your point, if there is enough oscillation its could muller the pump veins enough to cause the leak in the first place, whoever it still leaves the question is it down to the inherent design, or is it because of a badly worn harmonic balancer pulley....and again why is it seemingly not reported on the GE and the 1JZgte?

Hallelujah he's seen the light! seriously though, either do it yourself or get someone to open the drain hole out to its either 5 or 6mm before fitting, as a precaution as i found that my pump already had this mod done and it still killed a brand new seal.

That why there is a pressure relief valve to keep oil pressure within limits, however they have been known to stick.

Unfortunately in my case my std pump had already had the drain opened up to 6mm (about as big as you can safely go) yet due to the amount of pump wear on a 50K engine my seal was just displaced by the pressure build up, Chris may remember my posts and pics on that, but i think the pics are now gone. But anyway my pump had significant wear, yet still retained the std oil pressure expected, so oil pressure is no indication of pump wear on a good engine, i would presume this is to maintain a good supply film to the mains and rod bearings, so unless these are significantly worn then there would be no tell tale signs.

Your kind of on the right track, to me the whole thing relies on the fact that if you try and force a larger quantity of oil through a 3mm drain hole there is only a limited amount that can pass before the oil backs up and pressurizes the void, which i might add is pretty small, and the only moveable thing is the seal, either the lips which results in spring displacement, or the whole seal. Add to this the fact that most owners migrate to 10w40 oil as a minimum and often 10w50 or even 10w60 which is often advocated by some tuners, and this compounds the problem with oil flow through a small hole, considering the std recommended oil by Toyota is a 10w30. I am not saying that all oil seal weeps are pressure related, as a hard seal will eventually weep either by its inflexibility or wearing the crank itself, however if you think about it logically a seal suddenly leaking enough oil to cover the underside of the car is no going to be a simple weep, as if the oil pump is not actually leaking enough oil to cause seal failure, its certainly not going to supply enough bypassed oil to cover the underside in a matter of seconds or a minute or two.

LOL! I have quite a while ago read some disturbing theory's on crank end float on the US forums causing all kinds of issues, i believe it was mostly due to the US supras needing the clutch pedal to be depressed for starting, so extra wear from lack of oil pressure etc, and a manual with a heavily sprung clutch is going to do thrust washers no favors

Well as the old saying goes you can lead a horse to water...............but hopefully i wont be back in a week or two saying i told you so, so good luck with it .

Blow by is a term for combustion gasses getting past the ring/bore seal and into the crankcase, but if this is present to any degree that the std PCV system (vacuum generated by the intake) cant cope with it usually results in the dipstick being displaced well before any effect on oil seals, The other thing to consider especially on FI engines is that the increase in boost pressure will also increase ring real properties.

Are you saying that torsional flex could be responsible for both pump leakage? but i can see it being responsible for seal failure...leakage perhaps.

For the doubters why not fit a pressure gauge as i did and check whether you have any crankcase pressure under boost/load its not hard. and i am willing to bet the result will be zero or a vacuum.

I guess its possible, but i am convinced by the testing i did that with a reasonably sound engine there is no crankcase pressure build up, but if the scenario was that the engine had bad enough ring seal then the combination of a worn pump and a little crankcase pressure woulf slow the oil from the drain hole even further and promote the seal failing faster, As for your weeping seal it could well be just that and there is no appreciable leakage from the pump, i think if there was you would have seen the seal fail by now, there was a lot of conjecture in the US because the seal either fails by the lips being pushed outwards and the spring being displaced, or the seal was just plain pushed out of its seating, therefore they decided that is was crankcase pressure without examining the pumps or testing for crankcase pressure, and as per usual try everything to fix it by using screws to hold the seal in place only to find that the lips where pushed out and the spring displaced and it than leaked like a sieve. From memory and its about 9 years ago, that i did my oil pump it cost me around £160 for the modded pump, and around £250-300 for a local garage that i knew to do the work, IE on a lift doping the sub-frame enough to get the sump off.

That's the same mistake most make as its an easy assumption, and as i have already said i have proved that its the pump that's responsible, also consider this, the only connection to the seal has to the crankcase and therefor any pressure is a tiny 3mm hole that the oil pump bypass is supposed to flow through, so transferring enough pressure through that to force out the FMS would need to be quite considerable as opposed to hydraulic pressure from the oil build up.

For some reason it seems to manifest after BPU, and no there is no reason other than maybe people seem to give the engine a little more beans once BPU and perhaps some more RPM than usual which results in the oil pump pushing a little more pressure than is usual therefore creating more oil bypass from the rotors of the pump and in turn more oil in the gallery before the FMS... that's my take on it. As for all the other crankcase pressure scenarios, i have yet to see one proved, unlike the reason for my FMS failure, to add to this i also tested my engine for any crankcase pressure both with the std and modified breather systems, by fitting a low pressure peak hold gauge to the dip stick tube and monitoring and at no time did it ever record any positive pressure, in fact the was minor negative which proves the PCV system works, and proves that FMS failure is not down to crankcase pressurization as many US bods think. As i said before, the pump can have considerable wear and show no sign of loosing pressure, and pump wear is not always mileage dependent, because the ECUs run injectors at 100% during high boost and WOT the oil can get diluted with fuel, and this coupled with maybe not great oil maintenance can accelerate oil pump rotor wear, as i said mine was a fresh import with only 50K so it very difficult to tell the state of the oil pump.

I have a hard copy that i might sell, however sending to India may just might be impossible as they weigh about 5kg.

Sorry fella but you have been warned, so keep a very close eye on you oil level light as if it happens again and you dont notice you will be looking for a replacement engine, mine only had 50K on it when the pump caused the seal to fail. The job is not such a big deal if done on a lift, you just drop the front sub-frame to get enough clearance to remove the sump and then removing the pump is easy.

Having gone though this and doing a lot of research i would if i where you replace the oil pump NOW! The front main seal failing is pretty much always due to the oil pump having too much clearance which allows too much oil to go through the bypass.drain hole this then builds up behind the FMS and causes it to fail from the pressure, the hole in the pump body can be opened up to help with this as done with the PHR and Titan pumps from the states. This will help, but once the pump reaches a certain wear limit even that wont stop the seal from failing, and the pump will not show ANY signs of lower pressure either. Believe me i have been there twice and got the T shirt, mine first failed when i went BPU, i then renewed the seal and it just happened again, so after some further research i then learnt my lesson and fitted a new modified oil pump along with super bright oil level warning light as if the seal fails big time it can dump the content of the sump pretty quickly, i was lucky and caught it in time. Here is a link to one of my original posts on the subject, cant find the others, but here is another link to one that CW started and contains a lot of relevant info, unfortunately due to Photo buckets fook up most of the pics are missing. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?113789-My-Oil-pump-(crankshaft-front)-oil-seal-failure-Update&highlight=Oil+pump http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?108524-Oil-pump-(crankshaft-front)-oil-seal-failures/page9

I think your confusing bi wire and bi amp, do your speakers have two or four terminals? with bi wire able/bi amp speakers (four terminals) you can bi wire them by separating the low(woofers) and high (tweeters) by running separate wires form a normal stereo amp this is bi wire, but to bi amp which is what your manual is saying you can do you run the separate wire from the main and the surround terminals of your amp to the low and high terminals of your speakers (providing you have four) Manuals often show both options if available which leads to confusion.

Usually if you bi wire/amp the main speakers it will use the amps surround outputs to do it, so you will loose the ability to use these if you want to go 5-1 or 7-1.

I know mobiles can take some pretty good pics these days, but i just find most of them too big and half the time mine gets left at home, so thinking of a dedicated small but goo camera for the same reason ....being a lazy b ugger.

I know that there are a few hobby photographers here, so i though i would ask who is using a compact mirror-less and what do you think about it, reason i'm asking is because i am not always happy with the pictures i take and get fed up with constant tweaking and having to carry lenses around with my current DSLR kit. So i am seriously thinking of just selling up and get a compact that i can use point and shoot, but also tweak occasionally instead of all the time, as i just don't have the required patience these days,, so what have you got, and whats its like?

You really expect people not to be sceptical when a member of ten years with just 80 odd posts comes on here and starts raving about a company and product that most of us have never heard of, with no real data to back anything up.

Interesting that they don't actually list a brake kit for the Supra or Soarer on their website.

LOL sounds like he got a good deal from the suppliers and is just talking them up, personally, I have never even heard of them so quite what the myth is I don't know or care.