Tricky-Ricky

LOL! goes off to turn off my auto spell correction:whistle: Shot myself in the foot there.

I fear that patient and eloquent little explanation will be totally wasted Chris, and go above his head, he seems to have a tenuous grasp of the Queens English at the best of times, and just another reason I have lost all patience.

Our resident "I'm going to build a 1500BHP ...correction 1600BHP 7 second Supra, wanted to know which pipe to cut to make the turbos boost more (BPU) and which wire to cut to disable boost cut, so I advised him like this, "I thought somebody who was going to build a 1500BHP 7 second Supra would have more of a grasp of the simple stuff....oh well baby steps. You don't cut pipes to go BPU, you remove the cat and fit a restrictor ring or you will over-boost, you also cannot just cut a wire at the ECU to remove fuel cut, you will need what is known as a fuel cut defender, or a piggyback ECU." I know I shouldn't, but the little twerp gets on my nerves, anyway he didn't like my advice as you can see above and threw a tantrum LOL!

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Already in progress:d

I think its a case of your sig being quite correct

I thought somebody who was going to build a 1500BHP 7 second Supra would have more of a grasp of the simple stuff....oh well baby steps. You don't cut pipes to go BPU, you remove the cat and fit a restrictor ring or you will over-boost, you also cannot just cut a wire at the ECU to remove fuel cut, you will need what is known as a fuel cut defender, or a piggyback ECU.

I would say its definitely pulse controlled, as in order to control boost pressure you cant just throw 12v at it, as all it will do is open or close fully.

One of the reasons we have a 100 post rule over on the Skyline forum, they also need to be quality/contributory posts or they get removed so we don't get rubbish, it stops most of the chancers.

Serious power but it would only take a small stone, or even a small piece of rubber from the strip and those turbos are toast.

A Z is not that quick, like most cars you have to push it to get seriously out of shape, plus its got a pretty nanny traction control even when its turned off;) The N/A supra would perhaps be slightly more predictable handling wise, an S 13 or S14 is probably the easiest to get out of shape. This is about the best UK Z forum,http://www.350z-uk.com/index

Sorry forgot the GTE sensor runs a separate signal earth rather than engine metalwork, but my comment still applies, I'll go and edit my post.

Edit: The TT uses a four wire sensor, not sure about the N/A, but if you use a one wire or non heated sensor, it may react slower at certain loads IE low and in closed loop, and cause problems with AFRs.

Can't believe nobody has mentioned these two. Tito and Tarantula, great for the type of movie.

This world is corrupt, and it will never change all the time the people who have/control all the money/assets make all the rules.

Agreed! she is one of the good ones, however the royal yacht idea would prove too expensive, because in the current climate it would need 4" guns and missiles.

EMU will handle large injectors, its just not too good at lag times, but I agree it could well be leaking injectors, as on a cold engine you would have more air coming into the engine than when hot.

Some will say that you can get a different pressure reading depending on the take off point, IE sandwich plate or Lexus bolt, but this should only happen if the sandwich plate is sub std and drilled in the wrong gallery, The sensor is fitted directly to the housing/bolt if electric type, if mechanical, a capillary tube is fitted via a union and the tube taken to the cabin for the gauge, for a garage to fit a temporary gauge to check it will be fitted to the points i mentioned above, most garages will have a Snap on gauge which are pretty accurate.

Having read the spec I must say I agree, I was expecting a fully built 700+ BHP single turbo engine and top spec Syvecs ECU etc for that sort of money.

With the ECU connected try the switched +in at the ECU plug with a meter.

Does that mean you have power to the std ECU but none to the Emanage, or both?

Ahhh right, not heard of that one...doe's it show:D oh well better edit my post.

Edit: sorry wrong ECU:innocent:.

I would also say the hot pressure needs looking into, 130+ psi is OK for cold pressure but I would want to be seeing under 100psi at high RMP when hot, if the PRV is not doing its job and limiting pressure its can cause other problems, and the one that I would be most worried about would be the over pressure getting past the pump rotors and popping the front main seal, which can quickly empty all the oil from the sump, its also not good for the bearings.

If its already been checked presumably when the new sensor was fitted, I doubt its a calibration problem, but it could be worth a double check with a mechanical gauge, which can either be T into the current sensor position (which is currently where?) or substituted temporarily, changing the oil hot viscosity will have a small effect on oil pressure, but shouldn't be used as a band aid.