Tricky-Ricky

If a fuel tank is not vented it would gradually reduce the fuel available to the injectors because the vacuum created by the fuel displacement would make it harder for the pump to produce positive pressure to the fuel system.

I think it just reflects a change in peoples attitudes, the more dissatisfied and pissed off people get with the modern world and the way we are treated in our own country, the more attitude people develop, and so they no longer care about others.

I thought that was a pic of Blackpool illuminations at first glance

Glad you finally got it sorted, its always the simple stuff that catches us out.

The second decat pipe will be fine for the WB sensor, however it needs to be horizontal or higher in the pipe to avoid water in the exhaust.

I always go the belt and braces approach...so all relevant gauges, however having said that its really down to how much you trust your mapper. Other than that things can and do go out, or fail, but its usually a rarity, air leaks during vacuum will cause a lean mixture, but an air leak during boost after the airflow has been metered, will normally cause a rich mixture, the other ways to go lean are fuel system restriction, IE bad pump, blocked fuel filter, bad injector, then you have over boost, and failed MAP or MAF. But as already said you very unlikely to know unless you have the relevant gauges fitted, of course you may notice knock/pre ignition if you have a good ear, and you can sometimes get a mild misfire or a slight drop in power, but most will not notice, combustion temps will also rise but your average coolant temp gauge will not reflect this.

The main problem with the BR is that it will cut ignition via long and short grounding pulses (so random) to the coil/dizzy at any time once the target RPM is reached so any one cylinder could be about to fire, just fired or anywhere in between, so at high RPM you can see what this could do to a motor. Its not a case of whether one engine type is stronger than another, but hey if you want pops and bangs then go for it......just wait for the final big bang.

We have another name for these over on the Skyline forum....engine killer! for a good reason.

This is the sort of kit your looking at, AFAIK the Mocal thermostatic take off plate does not have any sensor ports, so you would need to keep the one you currently have, but that's not really a problem. Not quite sure what you mean about pipes in front of the rad?? if you fit a cooler kit the small (19 row) cooler can fit in the side pods of the bumper. http://www.tomiokaracing.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/d/s/dsc_7264_v1.jpg

Personally I would be looking at fitting a stand alone ECU or at least a decent piggyback with your particular spec rather than fitting another FCD and hoping for the best, some bigger injectors too.

I am wondering if you have the signal and earth of the MAP sensor mixed up, I am not sure with the blue that you can use the Greddy sensor to scale the std ECU, I will have to check.

I am presuming that you mean a sensor take off plate attached to the oil filter housing for fitting oil temp and pressure sensors, if so you should be able to get a thermostatic take off plate with sensor take offs, personally I would use a take off plate rather than an in line oil stat. But in any case I would wait until the new oil temp gauge is fitted to determine if the high temp was indeed accurate or not, on that subject and the l;location of the sensor, the take off plate will normally show up to 5deg higher than the sump due to its location, and the readings will be less stable, the sump due to its volume will reflect a more accurate general temp, however I always feel that an adapter for the sump plug is a little vulnerable, I would rather remove the sump and weld a boss for the sensor in the side out of harms way.

OK straight away I can see that there is something really wrong with the airflow input output, its not changing at all so there is some problem with the signal, so I would recheck you have the wiring and the settings correct, I suspect this is the problem, especially since it runs OK with the MAP sensor plugged back into the std ECU. this is also verified by the lambda showing as rich as 9 AFR at idle, I wouldn't let it idle too long at that rich mixture.

It says the videos are private.

Yes its quite normal for new oil to discolour after a short period, especially if the previous maintenance has been possibly neglected, and some oils contain more detergent compounds than others which will result in the discolour, didn't mention that before as I didn't consider it a factor of the over temp. Anyway, your guy obviously thinks you oil temp guage is faulty, which is quite possible, but again as you didn't mention it I presumed that its something you had already checked. Question for your NA/T guy, did the cars converted to single turbo, and tested with different exhausts, have oil only cooling for the turbo, or water? as it will make a big difference. If you do end up fitting an oil cooler (thermostatic take of plate is a must) you will only need to remove the wheel and the arch liner to fit.

I know its obvious but are you sure the polarity of the wires is correct? and have you selected the type of sensor on the main menu?

So all the front panel switches are zeroed, and AVV overall is adjusted to zero? If the std ECU uses both MAP and MAF that may be your problem, do you know just how the std ECU uses these signals for scaling its own fuelling maps?

So its connected properly, the jumpers are set correctly and the rotary switches have been tried in different positions, have you tried adjusting the overall fuel trim setting? given that you have tried another unit and disconnecting the emanage and allowing the std airflow to scale things works fine. This would suggest that its down to the emanage settings. As I have never owned an N/A can you tell me the airflow setup IE MAP MAF or both?

Sorry fella scrub the knock remark, I am getting confused with another thread I have been posting on that is power/dyno related, but I do think the std N/A silencer is not the best option as it would be more restrictive than a std TT item.

Your quite at liberty to believe what you like.. but my set up was not average. However your laboring under the wrong assumption that all hybrid turbos are the same! mine where certainly not your average hybrids with just a change of usually inducer size /shape, and sometimes exducer, so not all are the same spec, therefore can produce different airflow for any given boost pressure. Your also laboring under the assumption that the std 15 year old 440cc injectors are actually still flowing 440cc, a lot of people don't have them cleaned or replaced, I have seen quite a few injectors that never flowed anywhere near what they where supposed to. And your still ignoring air flow vs boost pressure issue, perhaps do a little research on the subject, and then perhaps you wont be so closed to the concept. While I am not averse to the fact that fuel flow is not as it should be IE pump/filter or injectors, and may be causing the lean condition, it doesn't alter the fact that its not flowing enough fuel for the airflow which was my point regardless of the cause.

So whats the down pipe size and the rest of the exhaust system? are you saying that you have kept the std N/A silencer? The restrictive rear silencer wont help power and will make it harder to attain the same boost pressure, and in theory should limit ultimate boost pressure, and yes make the turbo run a bit hotter by making it work much harder to make boost, however I SERIOUSLY DOUBT its the sole reason for you oil temps, I think I would be run an EGT probe as the EGTs could be high if there is too much of a restriction. I would look for a decent flowing but quiet aftermarket silencer to replace the std one.

That question doesn't make sense! as we ARE talking 1.0bar! Unless your referring to the 400BHP on other peoples BPU supras, in which case I have seen a couple of graphs knocking around here in the past, backed up by the tuner, (until then I also would not believe that 400BHP was possible on stock twins, but I'm sure it was at 1.3-4bar though. You also seem to be hung up on boost pressure rather than air flow?? you can flow very different amounts of air at 1.0 bar depending on turbos and engine spec etc, and what has the 500bhp on stock twins comment got to do with anything? sorry cant remember that far back, don't even have the dyno plots, gave them to the new owner years ago.

That's odd I could swear I already posted an answer to this... oh well, your only ever going to get different opinions as to what oil to use, its up to you, all I will say is that I have only ever used semi synth oil in all my cars the last two being a 350BHP S14, and my single turbo Supra with 550BHP, and never had a problem, and the Supra was running a big oil cooled turbo........with an oil cooler;)

I have replied to the other thread to keep things all in one place, I suspect a mod will delete this one.

Going by your other post on the same subject which I suspect will get deleted, you seem to think that the advice your being given is not correct for some reason? Anyway have a think about this.... Y You have fitted a turbo to an engine that was never designed to have one, turbos get very hot by design, turbos are either cooled by oil, or by oil and water, now I suspect that your turbo is oil cooled as its a pain to add water cooling on the N/A, this leaves the job of cooling to the oil only. If you drive at mostly off boost, the temp is not going to change much as the turbo is not super heating the oil, but put your foot down and use boost and the turbo gets VERY HOT, the N/A is fitted with an water/oil cooler but this is not sized or intended for a turbo so you can see where this all leads I'm sure, just fit an oil cooler like most other N/AT conversions and stop worrying. On the subject of your water temp, the water cooling system is by design far more efficient and is intended to cool the engine under all conditions, it is also controlled by a thermostat, which keeps a much more even temp simply because of the size of the rad, so can deal with fluctuations much quicker, apply the same theory to the oil and you will have no further problems.