TuneR

I think our BeSafe one fits but front seat needs to be pushed forward, unfortunately i cant confirm as car at shed and im coming off the back of Covid. https://www.madeformums.com/reviews/besafe-izi-go-modular-car-seat-review/?image=6&type=gallery&gallery=1&embedded_slideshow=1

I know you can get the brake-line brackets 3d printed, i wonder is that available somewhere.... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4745997

Oh man, not even a lick of paint to make the savagely bad welding last!

Heres my Excel list, has some of your stuff in it. Timing belt 13568-49036 TB tensioner 13540-46030 TB idler bearing 13505-46041 Accessory belt tensioner 16620-0W026 Oil pump 15100-46052 Water pump, OEM 16100-49847 Crank pulley, OEM 13407-46020 Crank pulley tool 09213-70011 Crank pulley holding tool 09330-00021 Crank pulley bolt 90119-18002 Crank timing pulley 13521-46040 Breather hose: turbo side 12262-46021 Breather hose: intake side 12261-46031 Breather hose: inner 1 12263-46010 Breather hose: inner 2 12264-46010 Plastic key blank 90999-00185 Automatic transmission filter 35330-50010 BOV pipe 1 17349-46010 BOV pipe 2 17344-46040 Boot door stopped upper 67293-14051 Boot door stopped lower 67281-14050 Engine mount 12360-46111 Coil packs VVTI 90919-02216 Coil pack connector 90980-11246 Upper rad hose bracket 90949-01B30 Centre prop support 37230-24090 Prop coupling 37511-30020 Diff drive shaft oil seals 90311-47008 Diff prop shaft oil seal 90311-44005 Rear diff mount1 41651-24020 Rear diff mount2 41651-14020 Brake line-centre Small brakes 47326-14040 Brake line-rear right 47328-14030 Brake line-rear left 47329-14030 Brake line-rear 1way valve 90413-10286 Fuel line-main 77251-14410 Fuel line-return 77255-14420 Fuel line-charcoal canister 77262-14070 Breakdown of whats in Seal and gasket set: GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD 11115-46052 GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD COVER 11213-46030 + 11214-46011 GASKET, TIMING BELT COVER, NO.2 11329-46040 GASKET(FOR OIL FILLER CAP) 12195-20020 Water outlet gasket 16343-46030 GASKET, EXHAUST MANIFOLD TO HEAD 17173-46040 GASKET, AIR SURGE TANK TO INTAKE MANIFOLD 17176-46030 GASKET, INTAKE MANIFOLD TO HEAD, NO.1 17177-46031 GASKET, EXHAUST MANIFOLD, NO.2 17198-46010 GASKET, EXHAUST GAS CONTROL VALVE 17281-46010 GASKET, THROTTLE BODY 22271-46080 INSULATOR, INJECTOR VIBRATION 23291-75010*12 + 23291-76010*6 WASHER, SEAL(FOR CYLINDER HEAD COVER) 90210-07001 WASHER, SEAL(FOR HEAD TO CAMSHAFT BEARING CAP) 90210-08033 INJECTOR ASSY, FUEL 90301-14006*6 + 90301-17007*6 SEAL, OIL(FOR CAMSHAFT) 90311-40020 GASKET(FOR FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR) 90430-16012 GASKET(FOR UNION BOLT NO.1) 90430-12026 GASKET(FOR UNION BOLT NO.2) 90430-12026 GASKET(FOR PULSATION DAMPER HOSE) 90430-12026 BOLT, UNION(FOR NOZZLE LEKAGE PIPE NO.3) 90430-12026 GASKET(FOR FUEL PIPE) 90430-14008 Oil control valve pipe washers 90430-16012 SEAL OR RING, O(FOR VALVE STEM OIL) 90913-02088*12 + 90913-02090*12 GASKET, EXHAUST PIPE 90917-06043 RING, O(FOR OIL PUMP) 96721-24022 RING, O(FOR WATER BY-PASS PIPE) 96761-24023 GASKET, TIMING BELT COVER, NO.1 11328-46041 GASKET, OIL STRAINER 15147-46010 GASKET, TURBO OIL OUTLET, NO.1 15472-46010 GASKET, WATER INLET HOUSING, NO.2 16325-46010 GASKET, WATER INLET HOUSING, NO.1 16325-62010 SEAL(FOR CRANKSHAFT) 90311-46001 SEAL, ENGINE REAR OIL 90311-90006 GASKET(FOR OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG) 90430-12031

God the auto box is brutal, sounded well but lazy at the same time lol. A 6 speed or even the tip which would hold onto the gears and an LSD would've done better. Not sure about the HP figure either since its sounds stock but maybe uprated stock turbos on a standalone. If it is the correct HP, i wonder would the better box+LSD with a stock bpu circa 400BHP have just done the same time....

Have you tried refitting the stock valve? There was an issue with the VVTi engine and BOVs, i just cant think of what it is.

There was a post about an old Camry switch fitting into a 3d printed mount that looked decent iirc, not sure if here or Supraforums though. This switch

Or you could just ACF50 it which is a shorter term solution, i use it on the bikes 1/2 times a year and its easy to apply.

Very similar to myself, 30k is what i reckon i'd get for my tip as well. I've had mine for 11 years now but in the last 2-3 years i haven't used it. Thats more that i started riding bikes and was out riding them instead of working on or driving the cars. Then extra costs i could spend on the Supra have been taken by my firstborn and as i started collecting parts to get her back on the road a second is on the way. House is also in progress so worst case scenario with rising building costs I'd have to sell the car to finish it. I guess thats the only reason ill sell it but as it is i'll be keeping it, tip away at giving it a good refresh and finally using it.

Oil level normal? Car on/off? Idling/not idling? Could be the sensor is all.

Is it not still a bad time to sell cars? Not too long after Xmas and into the new year new me time.

Brake disks letting it down Looks fantastic mate and a credit to all the work you've had done, now enjoy it.

IIRC theres a Camry version with an 3d printed adapter that looked fairly good if its still available now. Could always ask Toyota heritage to make the Supra one again.

Does the EPG show what part number the pre-FL brackets are?

Ha double-D. Get the tape with the headphone connection coming out of it, connect to a Bluetooth receiver and then connect to your phone.

Yes its different but thats the way the market/demand is currently, imo i'd spray the old exhaust with heat resistant paint. It'd help with keeping the rust away, also they weigh a ton lol.

Interesting, do those need a new ecu/fueling to get the most from them?

I dunno, read an article yesterday saying that with all the quantitative easing coming to an end and interest rates set to rise that a lot of the money for these new assets will disappear and the demand could cease. Makes no diff to me, I've just started buying parts for me to do a bit of a restore...

My thoughts on it: Race control didn't want the race to end on a safety car one of the most hotly contested seasons. Decided not to allow lapped cars overtake followed by deciding only cars between the two main title contenders could overtake to allow them to race. Several of the drivers were asked before the race would they race them and they said no and they were very good at moving over when they came up behind. They would've moved aside rather than blast off when the race restarted and i think the outcome would've been the same. Race controls consistency and the teams whinging at them should be sorted and also make it a one way conversation during the race. DC on C4 said that and i totally agree.

GS300 fits too and might be more readily available...

Heres an old pic, bit of stretch on the tyre alright and nothing too serious but the lips being exposed worries me. Fronts are 9" +34 with a 235, love the way it sits.

I've 10" +34 offset rears but there was a 255 tyre on them iirc and i had no issues and no roll/Eibach springs. I do plan on sticking a 265 but wont be until its back otr next spring/summer.

Ah the old "sure while you're in there" adding to the bill ha, fantastic job though. How does it compare to the old ride? Also how come you left on the second OEM exhaust heat shield? I see a few people have this done but i left mine off due to the aftermarket exhaust i put on.

Looks like more work than just valve seals lol, lovely build too mate. Fair play.