kjgreen3

You could megger the lighting circuit with it physically separate from the Consumer unit L-E, N-E and L-N after all the bulbs have been taken out and switches on 'AGAIN' lol. If you have a fault (low reading but not quite zero eg 0.1M etc) you know its on the cable somewhere and I would suggest splitting the circuit roughly halfway and testing again to see if you can isolate it to a particular feed to a switch, JB, light fitting etc. If it bells out clear (at least +7M ohm) then I would go with what danny1987 has suggested. I take it its a TT system. If so I would suggest you change it to TNCS if you are able to and at least put a split load board in 30mA RCD naturally and remove the ELCB but still be well within 17th Edition.

Ok don't panic, but you could seriously do with a full test and partial rewire But you could diagnose the fault yourself and maybe get an electrician to come and fix that. 1. Are you sure its the lighting circuit and not the ring main(sockets) as they are more likely to give earth leakage currents with appliances like washers dryers etc. 2. Unplug everything, I mean everything then unscrew every lightbulb in the property and turn on every switch (to test wiring up to lights). Redo earth to neutral voltage test and get back to me. NB. Make sure you have a torch and normally I wouldn't advocate a non-competent person (techno speak for non-electricians) to be carrying out checks like this. Please be careful!!!

10 Bad Programmer 20 Goto 10

Hey, Just thought I would start a little discussion. Just wondering how many members here are happy with their job. If so maybe they could list it with a brief description of why they are (Or if this thread dies maybe why they aren't and what job they would prefer to do). Im interested in particular with the Police and Public Sector workers due to the cuts to see if they will still find their working role satisfying under the added financial pressure. Guess I'll start; I'm an electrician and although it sounds cheesy I genuinely find satisfaction in helping others (for a small fee ) but seriously yes it is nice to go to a customer, diagnose a fault rectify it and something simple like restoring their electrical supply does mean a lot. Also some of my work may stand the test of time and for a complete rewire it may last 25-50 years or more. To me this is much more rewaRding than being an electrical engineer and not being involved hands on (that was my university degree btw, no offence to any electrical engineers). So reader of this post, your turn

Absolutely shocking behaviour and all the mechanics and counter staff should be ashamed for carrying on like that. Even though ultimately its a management decision to boost revenue. On another note I got a pair of vredesteins ultracs for 17" wheel about 18 months ago from kwik fit. I took advantage of their local price match got them for £150 (retail normally 120 quid each so £240) after I showed them an online quote - shame they didn't realise my online quote was the individual price per tyre if I bought 100 pairs. Doubt it would work again but I had to try my damndest not to smile when the assistant said yeah ok we can match that for you. What I would never do is take my car there for an mot they will fail it on advisory's just so they can get the remedial work from you albeit non-essential.

Already mentioned but streets of rage 2 how can a game be so awesome, oh I know by including the ultimate cheat. Just pick Max (the wrestler character) with combos which kill most enemies within one or two executions. I remember completing this game on the 'hardest' setting, therefore unlocking the 'insane' mode and completing it without my character losing a life. Hell this game was so popular (OR SAD!) that our meagre youth club had a megadrive and this was its only game that we could play (must have been a bundle deal). Still addictive after all these years. Just requires a quick blow on the cartridge to remove dust/oxiditation and away we go. "GRAND UPPER" anybody?

Supra enough boot space for your needs, backseat accomodates all ages up to 3-4 yrs (and midgets) after that sell your kids and buy a TT or single turbo supra. Buy the missus a cat if shes broody (A cat will most definately fit in the back seat, so win win all around). HTH

Ninja Scroll is awesome as is the tv series and mini-sequel. Fist of the North Star is awesome too. I rented Urotsukidoji (legend of the overfiend) from Blockbuster years ago after realising they had a few anime titles, thought why not maybe its another ninja scroll....... what a mistake 'tentacle rape' is not my cup of tea.

If you buy this kit you don't need a compressor it uses the spare wheel or even your offside wheel to power the bleeding kit. http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/tool-connection-eezibleed-kit/path/lubrication-fuel-transfer-equipment Just make sure the cap will fit your reservoir. I had to modify mine and use a G-clamp to hold the cap onto my reservoir as my Supe is Jspec and the fitment wasn't universal. It may be ok on UK spec models though. NB. As you are working with one of the best paint removal fluids and pressurising it!! I urge you to lay down towels or sheeting whilst carrying out this operation.

If you can rule out that it's not the seals then have you pressure bled the system? Because its a right PITA to get the air out of the ABS system. I bled mine 4 times and the pedal was still soft. Bought a Gunson Pressure bleed kit and with the use of a G -clamp pressure bled the system once and cured the spongyness immediately.

Thanks Purity 14 Hopefully I will be looking for no more than £400 which is excellent compared to Sky. Moi: 29 9Yrs NCB 3points (Stationary Parking Violation ) Might consider incurring the cancellation fees and jumping ship, obviously with the "hmmm is that the best you can do I'm not quite sure its worth the hassle of changing providers" speal.

Can anyone looking for a renewal on a jspec TT soon post up a their quote with relevant info (No claims, convictions etc) Please. As i may want to renew in the new year and just wanted a ball park figure to work with. Im currently with sky, may change though if this insurer seems to be all its cracked up to be. NB. Although I have a feeling imports may be off this insurers domain.

You want a Luton Van from Europcar, I have hired many of them from this firm however you may want to book early as these 7.5 tonne taillift trucks are in high demand especially weekends. Try this link http://www.europcar.co.uk/car-hire-HIGH_WYCOMBE.html

I think a decent garage would be able to weld a sleeve over the entire pipe from flange to where it meets the back box. Whats this for permanent fix? just for MOT? temporary until you source another backbox/exhaust system? However it may just be cheaper to get a new backbox or a decent second hand system. BTW is the HKS fully stainless or is just you want the repair to be rust free as im not 100% if you can weld stainless to mild steel. IF you want a temp fix for an MOT I can give you an amusing fix that worked for me.

If its the electrical supply to you house thats the issue then it doesn't matter what PSU you buy it will pop as they all contain sensitive electronics that don't like fluctuating supply voltages or current spikes. So....... Get a pretty decent low end PSU (Power Supply unit) from Scan.co.uk or Ebuyer for around 30-40 quid. But shell out on the best anti-surge extension lead protection device that you can. It will probably be as expensive as the Computer PSU though. Hopefully it will protect your new PSU from going to silicon heaven. HTH

"Le Mans 1955" is all I'm going to say http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1955_Le_Mans_disaster

Ok so I have a basic lock on my front door thumb screw euro style lock (the one that slides into the the door with a cam than moves the locking mechanism). My problem is that a few months ago I came home to my door being unlocked, checked around nothing moved and nothing missing. Assumed I may have forgotten to lock the door in the morning (no-one has another set of keys apart from my gf who wasn't in sheffield at the time). Then one night a month ago (I'm OCD about locking the door at night will check 2 or 3 times to make sure). My gf awoke to hearing a noise, she said someone is opening the front door. I fobbed it off as the neighbour coming in next door (Shared main door to my flat and my neighbours) but got up after she persisted. Turned out the front door was opening very slowly so I shouted "Oi motherF**ker what are you playing at?" to which a muffed "sorry wrong house". Would have given chase but I was starkers and by the time I got dressed and went out he was nowhere to be seen. Now I knew I locked my door that night and it got me thinking about the first time I came home to it being unlocked was it me was it picked like that time. Ok so today I come home and the door is unlocked my gf was the last to leave (she does have OCD btw) and she absolutely assures me it was locked when she left. So checking the flat nothing moved/stolen/misplaced I nipped to B&Q and purchased and installed a new lock plus put deadbolts in as well for extra security when I'm at home (Obviously no good when I'm out of the flat). So been reading about lock picking to access how easy it is to do to a reasonably secure 6 pin lock. Turns out its straightforward if you know about 'bumping' locks. (Google it or watch a demo on youtube) My question is has anyone experienced any unforced entry to their home or have encountered 'lock bumping' in any way, shape or form. Also can anyone recommend a decent lock that isn't too pricey. Current/Ex-policemen may be able to help here Sorry for the waffle but thought I had to let you people know the full story to this thread.

Good news. I had mine go through with no advisory's a few weeks ago even with 4 baked bean tins used as metal bandages as my exhaust mid sectioned had rusted inside out!! Well I suppose if it doesn't leak it will pass...... Sourced a decent second hand OEM system just got to clean it up and whack on some heat proof paint.

Make sure your sparky mate adheres to the current regulations regarding electrics. He will have to put everything on RCD protection including the lights, if your shower was on a split load (rcd protected) board it would have never have caught fire. Since you are getting a professional in it might as well be done right.

Why not wire the Fog light so you switch the earth instead of the live (positive). Assuming you have two wires going to the fog light that is. Use one as permanent live (fused accordingly say 10A off ignition or headlights feed so will only switch on when they're on). The other will be a switched earth via the fog light switch, the output of the switch side paralleled to 18 on your schematic as I'm sure the warning lights are switched earth to light. But don't hold me to that.

Dont think it could be that as the OP has stated its been topped up, it is worth checking the fluid sensor though as previously stated. The handbrake sensor would also cause the same set of warning lights to actuate, if the sensor return spring has become slack it would cause the same issue. Could someone correct me if I'm wrong and not just roll eyes at me

Could be handbrake sensor, when you accelerate or brake that sudden change in motion could actuate the sensor, making the handbrake light and hazrad triangle light up. Try disconnecting that sensor and driving for a few days to see if it occurs again.

I agree with Suprahuman. Also brakes and handbrake are most likely siezed. Jack up each corner take each wheel off in turn and lightly tap the calipers and discs with a RUBBER mallet to knock off any loose surface rust and to free up internals. Chock the wheels and leave it in gear with the handbrake off to free up the shoes in the rear brakes. When you have the tyres off you can check for flat spots as well. I would recommend a new battery as yours is most likely dead like the dodo.

Unlucky, pikey chav scum are like rats though. They never seem to chew (cut off) any of the live cables. Seem to sense the current and steer clear. Could have been dangerous as if anyone had got a shock none of the breakers and most of the rcd's wouldn't have tripped so its good that the fault was found and hopefully promptly rectified. For safetys sake, until the main earths, cpc's have been re-instated it isn't wise to continue using the electrics in the affected offices etc due to un-earthed equipment and structural steel containing floating voltages and hence a possible shock hazard. Although as a sparky im not massively clued up on surge protection but I imagine they would need a working earth to send the 'surge' to otherwise if the voltage spike got too high it would bypass the protector and onto the equipment, hence the damage. Simple example your laptop maybe 12V Direct current working off 230V Alternating suplly via a transformer. It's roughly a 20:1 ratio. Lets say a voltage spike of 1000V happened for a fair few milleseconds, thats approximately 50V fed to all your laptops juicy internals (Or in reality ~4x the rated voltage sent to the motherboard and cpu etc). Even though it happened for a fraction of a second its enough to cause all that damage. Hope you get everything reinstated and also that the electric plant room sees a serious security upgrade and maybe quick daily visual checks by competent onsite maintenance electricians.

Maplin, cheap abs plastic boxes. I'm sure some have rubber seals and are of a suitably 'Ingress Protection' rating as stated above. Search their online site see what you find.