kjgreen3

Yeah I don't like to tar people with the same brush it was self-depricating humor. But yes doley's have more free time on their hands to smoke fags and watch jeremy kyle, which is pretty much what I did until I got over my self pity and focussed all efforts into getting employment. But from working as a council sparky and going into unemployed tenants homes I generally found them ruder, overly selfish and arrogant compared to employed tenants. They seemed to think the world owed them something and would contantly argue about what you were doing and how you were doing it. FFS I was helping them out (for free as the council paid for the work) and a little respect wouldn't go amiss. My point stands about not getting another unemployed tenant though, however if you do get the council to pay YOU the rent instead of the tenant it can be done as when I was unemployed I had the option of entering the DD details of my landlord when applying for housing benefit.

If these don't sell, would you be willing to split? Im only after the centre console which fits around the gearstick and has the ashtray as mine has some broken retaining clips and rattles during driving. Let me know the price if you are interested. Cheers,

Doleys are scum I know I used to be one , it is sad how some people seem to have more rights than others when problems like this arise. The only thing she could do is pay for an electrician to fix this and get you to pay for it. If she is on the dole and the council..... sorry tax payers are paying her rent charges then you could politely bring this up with the local council and request her next payments are paid directly into your account for the 2 months arrears. If you are paid monthly according to the tenancy you have with her she has no rights to withhold rent from you. Can i make a suggestion for your next tenant, stay away from people on the dole unless you know them personally or they have good references from previous landlords. Get a nice young professional or a family in next time. Much more reliable and less likely to throw the council in your face if any issues arise.

Marty makes a valid point regarding the use of a portable appliance tester to make sure the earth leakage generated by your appliances isn't too much to trip an rcd (individually or combined). As a landlord to this chav tenant you are legally obliged to carry out a yearly (or change in tenancy) test of all appliances supplied by you ie. the white goods. If you haven't carried one out recently or all at then its a good idea to get a sparky out who can carry of the PAT test, covers your ass and it will prove/disprove the faulty appliance theory. Prices normally between 50p-£1 an item for over 20 items so its not expensive, less than 10 items maybe you will expect a total charge of around 30 quid to cover travel for the PAT tester, unless he drives a supra then expect double! My money is on the tumble dryer, poll anyone?

No need to do that pal unless its been wired incorrectly. That central heating pump should be on a separate circuit breaker probably marked up central heating or immersion (if you have a water heater that is) or spured off the ring main (one of your sockets circuit). You could test this by turning the heating on and turning off the faulty lighting circuit to see if the pump is on the same faulty circuit, however I very much doubt this is the case. You did say only one breaker/switch trips and not multiple ones when the fault occurs, I assume you still have power to the other circuits when that faulty one trips. It may help if you could post a picture of your fuseboard and highlight the breaker/switch that trips. Also if its labelled (eg lights, sockets etc) post that up info up or include it in a high resolution pic too.

No probs my fees are £30 per post on this thread, so that makes £60....... paypal ok with you If you don't get it sorted post them pics up and ask the tenant if anything else electrically gremlin wise has happened it may help with a quick and possibly free solution like telling her to stop wearing clothes that way no need to use the appliances.

Ok well as a precaution, you have an underlying wiring fault and I would recommend for safety reasons you leave that particular circuit breaker off, there is a fault and a large current is causing it to trip. A circuit breaker is designed to protect the electrical wiring not anything else and large currents can cause wires to overheat, so a possible fire risk. Even if its nothing serious repeated tripping of a breaker reduces its operating life so it will save you a fiver in replacing it if nothing else . Best leave it to a professional mate, like you said see if ricky 49 is up for the job. Also I would suggest you get a full test done on all the installed electrics ie. all the other circuits including the faulty one for peace of mind shouldn't cost more than 100-150 quid depending on how many circuits and sockets etc that you have.

Sadly no, its less cool than that. Im very surprised how many people remember poltergeist 2 as I found out that halloween, normally its only the first film that people recollect.

Ermm Im pretty much like my avatar

Haha Me I can't keep my responses short, Im signing up for a speedtyping course tomorrow , so I can get my responses in quicker. I need the glory from being correct in identifying a problem but it only works if I'm first to post it!

As a sparky I agree with ricky 49, based on the info you supplied and its only those two appliances running at the same time that trips out all power to the property Im guessing its on a main switch RCD. Your appliances with motors or heating elements generate tiny earth fault currents especially ones with heating elements indivdually it may not be enough to trip the RCD but with them combined it may be enough to hit the magic 30mA mark. Take a few decent quality pictures of your consumer unit, sorry fuseboard/distribution board/electric box/thing with switches and upload them on this thread when you next pop round to ask for your 2 months rent.

Damn should have kept it shorter absz beat me to it!

Hi Im a sparky, Can't recommend anyone in that area but maybe call on friends or neighbours that have had any work done by one and whether they would recommend them, or search online I think there is a forum where you post your work and suitable sparkies will post a quote for the work without even seeing what the work entails! Me I would need to see the problem to identify and rectify the issue, however my 'guess' would be that this problem has only occured since the leak and therefore would have something to do with said leak. You could take out all the bulbs in that circuit ie if its downstairs lights and see if it trips with all the swiches set to the on position (ie power going to all fittings and switches but no load being drawn) to see if its faulty wiring, remember to bring a torch! If nothing trips then the wiring would 'APPEAR' (cant confirm without insulation resistance testing the wires in that affected circuit) to be ok then it would suggest a loading problem, if its on a ten amp breaker and you have downlighters everywhere on that circuit it could be overloading the breaker say with 13 amps which wont cause it to trip until the breaker overheats and trips after say 1-4 mins. So you need an electrician to advise you on uprating or splitting that circuit into two or you use more energy saving bulbs. Before this turns into a war of the worlds epic read I will basically say I'm speculating and a picture is worth a thousand words so try the removal of the bulbs and if it still trips I strongly advise you to get a QUALIFIED electrician out to check that particular circuit out, as another note since you recently bought the house shouldn't the electrics have been tested as part of this new scheme. You should request the test documentation from the estate agents/previous owners and then challenge them if it passed as obviously it had an underlying fault which they missed or purposely overlooked. They should then pay for an electrician (not the same one who tested it!) to come and fix it for you. If I was closer (Im in south yorkshire) I would come and have a look for free but you would have to be a southerner........ tut. HTH keep this thread updated with how you resolve this problem

I would go for the vredesteins at this time of year I currently have the cheaper wintrac version. The sessanta version is the best model they do. I have had the wintrac's on my rears for nearly a year now ~ 8000 miles and haven't disappointed. They aren't as grippy in the dry as toyo's but for the price of around 100 bin lids a corner its value for money. As long as your geo is set up correctly for evenish wear you will still see 5-6mm of tread left after 5000 miles (obviously depends on how much wheelspinning from launches you do) they really are a great all weather hard compound tyre.

Thinking about it, its probably easier and cheaper to dig out a pit. As long as your property isn't below the waterline after digging a metre and a half down. Even if it is, proper installation will make it waterproof. Bonus is you can use it as an indoor pond when its not in use maybe even get a crocodile as a pet, or swim very short lengths! I agree with AshBhp in the fact that very few modern garages use 4 post ramps as it is much easier to work under and around a 2 post especially in a confined domestic garage. Me? Ive been going for the 4 breeze blocks under each tyre method - 16 quid for my ramp, BARGAIN!! and the neighbours give you the funniest looks

You're welcome........... ramp sharing buddy

My dad has one of these able to lift 2.5 tonne very handy but ideally they need to be sunk so you can drive on and off without ramps, his cerbera and my stock (not lowered) supe couldn't get on without some 3 metre shallow angle ramps. You need to make sure its not a 3 phase electricity supply to operate the hydraulics on the pump make sure its single phase so your domestic supply can power it, unless you have a 3 phase garage supply lol. They are very stable infact my dad only rawl bolted one hole per corner with 6mmx 100mm rawl bolts! yes he's an idiot and I told him to do the job properly with 20mmx 150mm ones. Thinking about the garage floor it can take the weight of your supra ~400kg per tyre and probably an area of 20 square centimetres so you should be fine even with the weight of the equipment it shouldn't exceed 600-700kg per corner so a 300mmX300mm base plate at each post would suffice and make it easier to fix the whole thing to the floor. You could test the depth of your garages concrete floor by drilling a small hole in the centre and seeing how deep the bit goes before hitting hardcore/earth. I would suggest speaking to the planning dept at the council to get the blueprints but this method would be quicker. PS my dad has sold his business so Im a 4 post ramp down if you get it installed can I be your car ramp sharing buddy?

Yes the japanese were about performance and lightening the car hence the plastic lights, no active spoiler and ceramic turbos (although faster spool and lighter not as reliable as steel uk types). I would like to know what the stock uk TT spec weight difference is compared to the jspec I bet its nearly 100kg!!

I'm confused......... Welcome btw its nice to see a lady with good taste in cars, shame my gf doesn't have the same taste as you, although she does have great taste in men.

Are you sure you're not all dating the same lady with a wide on for supra drivers? Not that its a bad thing - the supra bit anyway......

Looking again, my method wouldn't work cheers Scott M However done a quick browse and maybe it would be worth looking at this http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?item=1046&cat=520 Don't know if it would work on your type of locking nut but maybe give them an email with a pic of your nut, the kit is a little pricey but if it does what it says on the tin I'm sure you could sell it on or rent it out to other people with the same issue. Hope this helps

Oh and nice rims btw, or they will be once you get them off and refurbed!

If you cannot get a replacement key you can try finding a hex socket (allen key socket on 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch drive) which is slightly too big for the star like configuration of your locking nut, then angle grind/file the allen key part into the pattern of your locking wheel nut. A bit labour intensive I know but I've done it before. Also you do a good enough job and it works you can keep your locking wheel nuts and chuck the modded socket into your glove compartment for future use. Halfrauds or a good motor outlet should be able to sell these hex/sockets individually, just make sure you get one bigger than the internal dimensions of your locking nut. You will have to try and drill out the centre mass of the locking nut to allow the hex socket in and get a good purchase.

Type 'supra' (boring and obvious I know) but check out the 7th one down! EDIT: I know supras aren't boring, just meant that I have typed supra many times in google search

Might be off the trend of this thread but this caught my eye http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-Lightweight-Ex-MoD_W0QQitemZ200401408118QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAutomobiles_UK?hash=item2ea8dad076 http://img177.imageshack.us/i/landrover.jpg/ This is the exact model and roughly the same colour as my first vehicle (although my camoflage paint was better done). However mine had the 2.25L 4cyl removed and a rebored 2.8-3.0L V6 Ford capri engine in