kjgreen3

+1 For the Vredesteins. GREAT (as a hard compound can be compared to a softer one) in the dry, amazing in wet conditons. Best all-round tyre you can buy IMO. Have lasted 15,000 miles so far on my supe ~3 years and still have around 3mm tread left. Although my TT supe is stock and the Vredesteins are on my rear wheels. I have no idea whether they would be suitable for ~700 bhp. Although you could always just get a set for the fronts.

I had something similar losing coolant from expansion tank and having to top up system every couple of weeks depending on amount of driving. Turns out I had a couple of pin holes in the upper section of the radiator where the flange locates onto the radiator core. Only happens on long runs where the system get pressurised enough to force coolant out through the pin holes. Bought a new rad and problem solved, no more topping up coolant. Take it for a good hard run and when you switch engine off, open bonnet and check coolant pipes and radiator for any signs of leaking. Although from your post it seems your radiator may be quite new so that may rule it out, still worth checking all pipes and if possible the water pump as that has been known to leak over time.

Oh your in-laws are from chesterfield........ unlucky

If you want somewhere a little closer to chesterfield http://www.yell.com/s/wheel+alignment-sheffield.html Dexel Tyre and Auto centre do wheel alignment. I have never used them for this service, however I normally get my tyres changed there (sometimes bought from)/balanced/punctures repaired and I have always had a first class service from them. But like I said I don't know how good wheel alignment service is, so you would be possibly taking a risk.

You could try Gordons tyres located in wakefield http://www.yell.com/b/Gordons+Tyres-Tyres-Wakefield-WF29LP-900112796/index.html I had my laser wheel alignment done on the supra there around november 2007 time. Changed me less than £30 (although would think it would be nearer £40-£50 with extra VAT and inflation). They spent over an hour trying to free up the siezed rear camber adjusters and still only charged me for the half hour it normally takes for a wheel alignment. Also got them to input the bespoke wheel alignment values from this site IIRC it was the LANCE alignment data, even though they had my supra details available on the machine. I know its not that close to chesterfield but its literally just off junction 40 of the M1. Plus they have a free vend coffee machine

Maybe she looked in the mirror *sober* and turned to stone, or listened to her back catalogue and just stopped breathing at the immense feeling of shame

How long you had the alarm, if its a number of years it could be the sounder/siren (normally located under bonnet near clutch master cylinder) needs its internal ni-cad battery replacing. If you have the toad alarm users manual it may shed some light on this matter.

Sounds like you need the anti rattle SPRINGS which after braking push the pads away from the disc so to stop them catching the rotating disc and moving in the calipers and squealing either against the disc or against the piston. It is worth going to your local toyota garage and getting a new sets of; Anti rattle springs 2 per corner (thin elongated horseshoe looking links between the two pads) Anti rattle SHIMS 2 per corner (one on the back of each brake pad, normally when attaching you put a THIN! amount of copper slip/grease between it and the back of the brake pad) Brake pad retaining clips 4 per corner (2 per brake pad they hold the pads snugly against the cradle/caliper brackets) Also since you have import (Jspec) brakes check for stuck slider pins (plenty of threads on here with pics if you use the search function) as they can cause uneven pad or disc wear, even disc warping which would cause occasional squealing. Also check your dust shields aren't fouling on the discs as this will cause squealing. If you go to toyota note down the part numbers then try the traders on here to see if they can better MR T's prices however for these relatively cheap components I think MR T will win. I won't name any names but for 4 anti rattle springs I got a quote of ~£50 off a trader from here, But Mr T did them for around £5. HTH

Stolen from one of the threads you posted regarding brake clamping. Thanks go to Mr Wilson for this advise "Clamp off a caliper hose and see what happens, try all 4 in turn. You may identify where the air is like this. Don't try clamping braided hoses, they don't like it, only OE type rubber ones..."

You can edit your own post titles, click edit and go advanced. I know cos a mod told me when I wanted a thread title changing.

I would say that you definately have tried the best ways to get air out of your system. So thats not your problem. If the master cylinder and the brake cylinders are in good working order then next thing to check will be leaks in the actual brake lines itself. They do corrode over time especially near the rear wheels where they are protected from damage by plastic covers. These areas trap dirt and water tight against the brake lines so after a number of years they will corrode. I would suggest you throughly clean the underside of the car, get it on a ramp with a friend in the car pumping the brakes whilst you inspect all brake lines for corrosion and/or leaks. I suspect if everything else in the braking system is fine then you have a tiny pinhole leak/or loose joint/connection. Not enough to cause catastrophic brake failure 'YET' but enough to degrade the braking performance and cause the pedal travel to maximise.

Sorry I'm keeping them as I think in silver they suit a black supra, saving up for a refurb actually as they have seen better days. Mine are 17" and I think 8j front and 9j rear. I'm sure a set can be picked up on ebay/pistonheads fairly cheap, but I don't think they are in production anymore according to the AVS website.

Oh done a quick search, Yours look like "AVS Model 7" type. Check this link for a pic. http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=AVS+alloys&um=1&hl=en&safe=off&sa=N&biw=1360&bih=601&tbm=isch&tbnid=UOVPj1E2qevmtM:&imgrefurl=http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3069031.htm&docid=JPurx4_mBtoHAM&w=150&h=112&ei=-2ZJTtq5HcOs8gPR8JmxBg&zoom=1

I have some AVS advans but in silver, see my car in my garage or check this link for a picture of some in white. Don't know what yours are even though they are AVS but I prefer the split/open spoke version that I have, looks meaner IMO. http://home.exetel.com.au/users/steve/4sale/cars/supra/avs_002.jpg

Patterned concrete although looks nice isn't that good as its worse than walking on ice when it gets a little bit wet and suffers from cracking. Tarmac would be the cheapest and longest lasting option as long as it's not a large area as you may end up having to put in extra drainage to deal with rainwater. Block paving is the nicest looking but the most expensive option. As with any builders/groundworkers always get references and if possible look at previous work carried out. Any decent tradesmen of this type will have a portfolio of work that he can show you.

Sorted one from the 'Ebay' thanks to all who reesponded.

Bumpety

So bit of an update. Just finished a solar PV course, the company I work for and my boss will be doing the MCS accreditation and associated health and safety course(s) to become an approved installer of PV (photovoltaic i.e electric solar panels). I shall be approved enough to be able to undertake the installation. As the government is pushing forward for renewable and carbon neutral energies with feeder tariffs this seems to be the secure future career path for electricians.

No OEM on Whifbitz site only an aftermarket KOYO more suited to BPU/single, was thinking if someone went BPU/single and had fitted an uprated rad for the associated extra cooling issues and still had a perfectly good OEM rad in the garage/shed/etc. An OEM rad will be fine for me as I'm still stock. cheers for the reply though

Hi, As above after either STOCK new rad OR second hand rad in good condition (pressure tested ok and fins don't turn to dust when touched) OR aftermarket (alloy/aluminium) radiator. If aftermarket it will have to be a drop in type. ie. using existing OEM brackets/fan shroud/fan mounts etc and that the stock bonnet will still shut. Prices please I have PM'ed Keron too, but just thought people may have a rad knocking about which may sort me out. Kind Regards, Keelan

At least in a week or two's time the worms are gonna have one of a party nomming on her corpse!

To quote a friend's FB status; "The power of celebrity means you can openly court death through your own pitiful self abuse for years and still get more sympathy than 80 innocent teenagers." My sentiments exactly.

Thanks I see you've already edited it for me. I will remember this if there is a next time!

Cheers Mr Wilson very helpful as always, much appreciated.

If you know a little bit about seized brake pistons.... http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?249921-How-to-check-for-sticking-seized-brake-pistons I will thank you or maybe Mr Wilson