kjgreen3

Wow, Really surprised to see how many people on here have been a target of ID theft, Ive been stung twice the most recent a few months back they activated 2 unauthorised D.Debits to Orange and Carphone Warehouse, (some thieves have NO taste!) got my money back but the bank refused to refund the going overdrawn charge. Ah well but it has since forced me to lock down that account (its not 1st choice account) so only appearing in person will get you your money out, just like the good old days. Anyone seeing watchdog yesterday take note about using unsecure wireless networks whilst out and about, basically ID fraudsters sit about (eg internet cafe or starbucks etc) hijacking user email logins. From which they can gather enough info to get credit cards out in your name which is much more difficult to prove that you are not to blame. You have been warned, Oh anyone got any credit card cloning machines the last one I left with a mate who works at shell

Gears of war 2 anybody..........

Ok first thing this is NSFW without spoiling this link as the surprise is what increases the impact, do not watch with girlfriend/missus etc. http://visit-x.net/rammstein/ Ok don't click just yet, Im a metal fan although never really been a massive fan of german metal. However Rammstein have always intrigued me and I have been following them from a distance. They released a new album and this link is the UNCENSORED version of their first single titled "pussy" think that says it all. Would like to get fellow metal heads opinions on Rammstein and particularly this track and music video, personally I think Germans have a sense of humour based on this!

steady dave, I live in netheredge too. Just off montgomery rd infact so if you see a black Jspec (stock bodykit) supra knocking about that would be me! 2 car parking spaces is really good however I have the use of a gated shared car park behind the block I live in

Hi, Have you experienced this after the car has warmed up ie all coolants are up to operating temp and then you turn off the engine then start it again? Or is it just from cold start? Need to isolate if the cold start procedure on the ECU has a fault or if the oxygen sensors (2 on an N/A) could be clogged or faulty, also could be a couple of other things that maybe other members maybe able to shed some light on.

Definately a piss take Funny though I laughed so hard when I read the last quote on the Q&A section. But worryingly it only took two passes to understand the text/chav speak. Hey I'm becoming bi-lingual!

Think of the excuses to drive back into bradford if you did move though, especially for a good chinese or indian takeaway an excuse to drive further in the supra is one thing you will come to understand if you do get one. Hell a 5 mile round trip to the shops turned into a 150 mile cruise a few weeks back Honestly it seems like the quotes are based on where you live so no matter the model of car, insurance will be pretty high, paying for storage or renting a secure lockup wopuld probably brings the costs down significantly either that or chose the highest excess you can afford based on the crossed fingers approach that it will never happen to you.

Ouch! I do live in a decent postcode though maybe thats why mine is under 1k. I really feel for you though insurance companies are robbing bastards NOT THAT I WOULD ADVISE THIS but from watching all those cops with camera programs it seems that uninsured drivers get off with hardly any punishment when caught one bloke eventually given community service after his 5th time caught uninsured, you fancy joining the 10% of people that unfairly push our premiums ever higher year on year! Failing that pal if its not your daily driver and you can pay for safe storage out of that postcode, maybe have it as a wknd car until you can move out of bradford....... Just a thought

Hi, I have a twin turbo import maunal supra and my insurance via churchill is less than a grand (just!) with 7 years no claims, maybe give them a try.

Stud locator like is a lightweight hand held mini metal detector, picks up any metalwork (pipes, metal capping, screws, and nails etc) handy when drilling holes so you know where not to drill, but if its a load bearing wall/beam i doubt anything it will pick up will be more than the metal reinforcing rods, again pics would help, don't forget the bikini clad lady it focussed my short attension span! Budd Sorry missed the point you know what a stud locator is and john has answered your question regarding studs

Took so long to type most of the others members beat me to my points! I will never win secretary of the year *sniff*. Supra aero (if indeed that is your real name ) a picture is worth a thousand words if you could upload a wide angle shot or projector location preferably with a bikini clad beauty pointing car show stylee it would be much appreciated and we should be able to resolve your problem quicker oh and a pic of the mounting plate on the projector would help to or a link the manufactures site. Budd

Hey, Gonna try and give you a hand here pal. Don't take offense to anything if its comes across as obvious and/or patronising just trying to cover all bases. As an electrician and keen DIY I think i may be able to help. A widescreen pic of your projector location on the wall may help but will try and offer advice blind for now! A few things to consider before drilling (too late I know! but please read for future hole drilling reference). Does the projector screen weigh much (>10kg), if so you will need heavier fixings than plastic wall/rawl plugs more like wall/rawl bolts which are about 100mm deep. If its lighter then 10kg plastic rawl/wall plugs are fine if you can drill to the required depth. Are your fixings inline with any electrical accessory? By this I mean look at your drilled holes and imagining a vertical and horizonal strip (look up/down and left/right level with your holes) and see if that line passes over a wall socket or light switch or fused spur, if so you may have drilled through the plaster and may be hitting metal capping that protects the mains cables feeding an electrical accessory! You could try to borrow/buy one of those metal stud locator things (mini-metal detector less than 10 bob from DIY store) to make sure your holes aren't running over water pipes or electrical wires, last thing you want is a leak but its more preferable than a bang and waking up on the other side of the room! Ok assuming the above is correct and no hidden cables or pipes are funning behide your holes then it could be that the drill you are using isn't a hammer/percussion drill? If so then you may have drilled the plaster and redering normally 3/4 to an inch thick on the average wall and are hitting the brick/block work behind. A normal drill won't get through this (Also here's a thought are you using a masonary bit specifically designed to drill brick/concrete) So assuming the above paragraph is true you need the appropriate masonry bit and a hammer drill, befriend a neighbour or mate to borrow their hammer drill if its red rawl plugs you need a 5.5mm masonry drill bit then you will piss going through the wall, watch out if its internal you don't drill all the way through! A quick tip is to measure what depth and put some coloured tape on the drill bit at the required depth once the wall touches the tape on the bit you know that the hole is deep enough. As an afterthought how high are your holes they are not above (on a load bearing wall) a doorway, if so you may be hitting the reinforcing bars or the door lintel (supporting solid concrete with internal metal rods to transfer the loads stresses onto either side of the door). Ok help this helps, its a lot of info just to drill a few holes, think I need to put my typing pinkies into some cold water! Any other questions feel free to ask. Budd

Righto getting car back tomorrow. According to the dealer the crank sensor has fallen out of position but its fixed and now he says it runs well. So im gonna keep an eye on the oil level and see if it drives any different to how i had it before. But to be fair a dealer specialising in imports should have diagnosed this problem in less then 4 days but at least he only charged me 6 hours labour plus parts so I cant grumble. But £500 quid for a dropped bolt is an expensive mistake to make. Anyway will keep you all posted on what happens and thanks again to all the people who helped me out. Hopefully this will be the end of the whole fiasco lol.

Hey d&d yeah have to take middle cam cover off to access the remaining bolts on the water pump, i didn't realise until taking the cover off that the cam tensioner assembly is attached to the water pump, so i stopped right there and proceeded to put everything back together and thats when i dropped the flipping bolt behind the crank case cover. Oh im based in sheffield 123tom but the dealers have my supra in scunthorpe at the mo, stuck with driving my dads 4.7 V8 Jeep cherokee at the moment and its an auto, must remember not to use my left foot on the brake again. Emergency stop anyone Oh and yes the dealers say it doesn't rev above tickover and low compression across all 6 cylinders but especially number 6 cylinder, they are gonna do more tests tomorrow so ill post any new info that i find out then. Thanks for all your helpful hints and questions btw keep them coming

Thank you Mr Moderator and have taken your advice and deleted my email

Locked everything up and did like for like swap but when I think about it I should have made doubley sure by cutting old belt in half (in situ) along its length so I could get half the new belt on, then cut old belt off complete. Ah well hindsight is a wonderful thing, but if its a non interference engine being a couple of teeth out should'nt have caused it any compression damage when I started it. Should it?

Ok Gaz1. Yeah well im a n00b but ive copied the original post into technical now under title 'Low Compression Problems'. Cheers for pointing me in the right direction and thanks again for the welcome. God I miss her it . It's true what they say, You dont realise what you have until she develops low compression problems and wont run sweet

Thanks for the welcome and the prompt reply, you have at least put my mind at ease about my timing belt change and no valve damage. I think the old belt might have jumped when it snagged the bolt and hence when I did the swap the old belt was out anyway, well thats what I like to think

Hello, Im a proud owner of a stock grey import manual 6 speed 94 plate twin turbo black MIV (obviously cos im posting on here ) Supra. Ok I have a little problem (yes yes I can hear you sighing), well its a big problem . I'll try to explain it in as much detail as possible. Here goes, My supra is currently back at the import place from where I bought it 14 months ago after last fridays incident (ill get to that in a bit). They say after a pressure test that all 6 cylinders are down on compression and number 6 cylinder is about 60% down in compression. It starts but wont rev above idle and that the oil level is low and dont know where its gone no leaks etc (i checked the level 3 weeks prior and it was healthy). Ive not noticed any leaks or oil light on, coolant levels were good and its been driving fine no change in performance up until the day (last friday) I did the following. Reason for the dealers having my supra is due to this massive bad luck. Ok you may laugh. Noticed seepage from water pump friday morning checked coolant level was ok (much less than a litre down) so I topped it up and took it to my dads workshop to see if I could fix the leak. Checked coolant level when there (less than a pint lost) 60 miles away and car was driving fine up to my dads. So stripped rad fan etc out and then noticed water pump had cam tensioner on it so decided to live with the seepage until cambelt needed replacing for obvious reasons. Putting cam covers back on I dropped a small retaining bolt into the cavity behind the main crank pulley DOH!!!! So couldn't leave it but couldn't pull the bottom cover out enough to retrieve said bastard of a bolt. Hence main crank pulley removal (what a bitch that was) anyway got it off but had moved cambelt during process. So got bolt out and it was bent checked cambelt for damage and it was, so nipped out to get replacement. Fitted replacement put it all back together (locked cam pulleys together to stop movement and crank didn't move during cambelt replacement) and the car didn't start. No funny banging sounds compression sounded good (as starter still struggled as usual to spin the inline 6, didn't spin faster than usual basically) but no triumphant Vrrrrmmmm!!!. So decided to quit whilst behind and trailer said car to the aformentioned dealers. After a couple of days of checks they think ive cooked it, to explain lost oil, after they replaced pump and removed and replaced cambelt (when i put it on it was 1 tooth out on one cam pulley) and put hall effect sensor connector back on (fell off when i was working on it hence not starting when i tried) it started but wouldn't rev. So just wondering whether the garage has damaged the engine cos I cannot see being one tooth out or even 2 teeth out on timing causing valve or piston damage. Or whether their timing is out slightly etc causing the low compression as intake and exhaust valves aren't closed properly. I've racked my limited knowledge, my dads and the dealers are no wiser. So you experts out there can you shed any light on this matter, pretty please Regards Keelan Ps. Any more information required to help resolve this issue I will be glad to give.