kjgreen3

Ok cool if its in good nick (once I see a pic) and its black I will take it off your hands.

Out of co-incidence I have a broken PASSENGER catch, so since you have the drivers one available I just thought you may also have the passenger one available to buy in good condition. If so how much but also what colour is it painted and is the plastic surround in good nick. Could you post a pic if its not too much trouble. Sorry for the sort-of thread hijack Rays the Roof. Cheers,

Ok Will take all the seatbelts off you for the price you have listed, 38£ Posted?? PM me your Paypal address and I will send you some internet money Could always use the rear seatbelts to strap the missus to the bed Cheers,

..

Haha made me smile so much im gonna buy something. I'm after just the driver and front passenger seatbelts (as mine don't retract fully anymore, annoying!!) if the winder mechanisms on both are fully operational. PM me your best price inc. postage if you are willing to split them. cheers

Good news, would probably clean the underside of the car and give all the brake lines a thorough checking over especially before the France trip, Better safe than sorry as a lot of MOT stations can miss things, especially if they are caked in muck.

Its a Colour changing LED, it should have three legs and depending on what mode the alarm is in it should change colour from red through to green. I don't know what the terminations are but I *THINK* you will have a permanent postive and two switched negatives. Maybe someone will correct me if I'm wrong. You could trial and error it by disarming the alarm and finding the combination that lights the LED up green, then arm the alarm and see if the LED goes red and flashes.

If it was 45 bang on then you may get the option of a speed seminar course, IIRC its speed limit + 10% + 1mph ie 40 + 4 + 1 = 45mph. Anything over its a fine + points and under you get the all clear. The course is 2-4h long and costs 60 quid. However its better than the points + fine. They don't care as long as they get your money. You have a long 2 weeks ahead as this is the normal time period for a notifiable from the council/constabulary to be posted to your door. Fingers crossed for you. As with the income cut from central government local councils and constabularies are cracking down on offences that can generate revenue. Just noticed this is in Wales. As they run themselves and are separate to England's Government the rules may be different, it may be worth speaking to your council or local constabulary to find out if your *MATE* would get points and a fine.

I can answer point one. All energy generated whether used by you or sent into the grid is charged at 4x unit rate as its green. Doesn't matter if you use it all and some from the grid or it all goes to the grid, Whatever is generated they have to pay you (or the company who is effectively leasing you the panels for 25 years) for all units generated. So effectively whatever is generated is charged at 4x rate and whatever you use you pay 1x rate. That is why so many companies are jumping on the install free and free electricity for the leaseholder but let have the surplus (there is no surplus its whatever is generated is charged!) As stated after 5-6 years they start to make a profit of around 1k- 1.5k a year that's what makes it so lucrutive, unfortunately for the average homeowner its a large amount to pay out if doing it themselves.

Yes the catch is they sell the units generated at 4x the normal unit cost, say its 10p per unit. Green energy (solar panel/wind generated electricity) then would be sold to the energy provider for 40p per unit. You would be best off forking out the install costs yourself and then after 5-6 years the energy sold back would have paid off the cost of the installation. One of my recent new build jobs had it installed and same terms as you have linked, he decided the way prices on energy have skyrocketed its worth paying 6-10k to get it intalled as even if unit rates go up to a £10 a unit you still sell it back at £40 per unit, doesn't matter if you use the energy or not! Remember they generate ~7-16 hours a day (depending on time of year) as long as there is light. Said client got told a value of £1500 of electricity on average (at current unit rates) per year would be sold back to the provider (that was for 6 PV panels) and would pay for itself in 6 years.

A single drop link (recommend you change both!) for the supra was cheaper than a single one for the suzuki! I got quoted £50 for ONE on the suzuki but for TWO on the supra came to ~£40 but that was in 2009 so i would expect around ~£50 for two these days what with the VAT hike. Mr T or Keron (although it may be second hand) may be your best bet unless Whifbitz do a good price. Best to wait until Paul (if it's going to Whifbitz) diagnoses the fault as it may not be what has been suggested. Btw I found a two drop links for the suzuki for £20 on EBAY as if i was going to spend £50 on one! Hope its a cheap fix either way, like you said please update this thread once the fault has been diagnosed/rectified as its useful info to other members.

Make sure you adjust on a perfectly level surface otherwise all your adjustments will be out of alignment. Also if you have any free weights or 25kg builders bags of sand put your body weights equivalent into the drivers seat and footwell to match your displacement onto the suspension when you're driving. Say you weigh 75kg (~168 pounds) put 50kg onto the seat and 25kg onto the footwell. Then go round adjusting your suspension. I did this to mine after using a sprit level and blocks of wood to get a level surface upon which I jacked the car onto the blocks. I fitted BC racing coilovers and after setting the ride height using this method it worked a treat. As stated once happy with ride height, and after driving it for a few weeks to let the suspension settle get a full Geomentry setup done and your car shall drive much better. Edit: Oh it took me 4 hours to do this as each adjustment will affect the other 3 coirners of the car, trick is little adjustments at a time starting with the heaviest corner normally the offside front (taking into account driver ballast)

Yes as already mentioned check the front ARB and drop links for break(s) and/or play. One of our members IIRC had one snap inside the mounting brackets so it wasnt visible. Best best visual inspection then undo one of the drop links and see if you can twist the ARB. 15 minute job what with taking one of the front wheels off, which you will be doing if you are unseizing a caliper. I had a worn ball joint in my off side drop link on my suzuki vitara and it made the same clunking sound when turning right, sometimes juddering when turning near full lock as well.

Would you be willing to package and post it? If so im interested depending on total price for delivery. Cheers

Yes I know that, its unfair how a monopoly market isn't regulated enough. I could in theory be one of the 8~10% of drivers not insured and save money that way. I just can't see how they put up prices by a THIRD in a year and get away with it. Maybe they should invest some of their profits on helping to catch the unisured drivers, accident scammers and the like instead of punishing the law abiding majority. Oh wait its easier just to keep putting prices up............

Good for you that was roughly what I paid last years and I'm 29 8 years ncb 3 points (Parking offense) JSPEC TT Manual in a secure car park! So either your paying too little or I got screwed by them last year too! For me 350 -400 quid would be about right so I'm trying the classic car insurance route. Sky wanted £767 from me this year!

Because they can and they do! Legally you need insurance to drive so why not hike the prices up and blame it on the compensation culture. Brokers like Sky need to make a profit and the higher the price they can get for an insurer on their books the more money they make. In an ideal world every year of fault free driving should be rewarded by cheaper renewal quotes but sadly this isn't the case. Just be glad you aren't 17 and driving a 1L car worth £400 with no ncb. Did a test quote and the 3rd party F+T was £3300 fun times!

Don't choose sky just had my renewal and its gone up by way too much will be cancelling it as they don't seem to be trying hard enough to get cheaper quotes. Try A-PLAN, Admiral (if you can get a multicar quote), Lynbrook (if you do less than 5000 miles and are older than 25).

My Dad's TVR Cerbera 4.5L, Drove it once scared the sh*t out of me! How the hell that passed VOSA to become road legal during production, must have been a nice bung to some officials for that to make it off the drawing board. Nearly 420 bhp per tonne (think twice the power to weight of a stock TT) and no gizmos to help you out if you make a mistake. Great sound though like if God farted down a twin exhaust. After I had driven it I had the biggest smile....... Grinning now just thinking about it. Still dangerous it needed someone like cosworth, AMG etc to tame it and put in some extra safety measures.

Happy that it was a simple cheap fix like people have mentioned probably just taking your time with it made it easier to get the remaining air out of the system.

Loves the fact that the supra dash is configured around the driver, so even when the lighter decides to go ape it fires into your crotch! Imagine the fun you would have had if it fired into the back seat! I think the clips on the housing mounted into the dash become weak over time and cannot retain the lighter when it pops out you could take it out and press them together as a temporary solution but best bet is to buy a new one if you use the cigarette lighter otherwise if its just for sat nav mobile phone charger then leave the original one in.

Haha, hope it works out for you, let us know if the pressure bleeding worked.

Halfrauds but google search for 'Gunsons Pressure Bleed Kit' Link to the same model I got http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001KTFIWA/ref=asc_df_B001KTFIWA1856065?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22206&creativeASIN=B001KTFIWA

I had the same problem did it two man method (SLOWLY) twice, still the pedal hit the floor. I did some reading and found out that Air can be hard to remove from the ABS unit. I bought a Gunson pressure bleeding kit (uses the spare tyre to pressurise the brake resevoir to about 15 - 20PSI), opened the nipples one at a time bleeding furthest point to nearest. Did it first time and I did notice air bubbles whilst bleeding. So if you are lucky you still just have a little air in the system. Try buying one of those kits it only cost me £15. NOTE: Make sure the 'Universal Adapter' fits the brake reservoir, as mine didn't so I had to use a G clamp to hold the adapter onto the reservoir. Think it's because mine is a JSPEC and not a European style reservoir cap.

It is, although its cheaper overall to replace worn brake pads that to replace a clutch if you use engine braking excessively