kjgreen3

Oops can a MOD please edit my thread title and put a question mark at the end. Otherwise it looks like I'm doing a how to guide rather than asking a question. Cheers me-dears

As titled I want to know the easiest way to check for individually sticking pistons on jspec 2pot and 1 pot calipers. I have searched and found 'how to refurb' answers but nothing about how to check for it. Is it a matter of taking a caliper off to see piston movement then gently pressing brake pedal and seeing if it moves out? Or GENTLY pulling/rotating a piston with grips or pliers (maybe taping the ends to prevent scoring) and seeing if it moves freely? Or any of the above to bring piston out and checking for corrosion or leaks on the piston. I'm halfway through refurbing JUST the sliding calipers (and painting them ) just want to check the operation of the pistons before it all goes back together. Anyway with any experience of this would you be so kind as to share your thoughts. Cheers, PS. I know many people may say just refurb the seals and pistons but as this is a very important area of the car which would be very dangerous job in inexperienced hands to carry out incorrectly, I would rather check they all work before having to send them off to be professsionally refurbed. If they all work then I would rather leave it at that. Also bleeding the brakes again is a right PITA, as I've found out (Damn ABS unit and its love for hording air).

Expand the business, you already have the premises become a used car dealer. Maybe do a bit of work on the cars then flog them for a small profit or even just to break even. They should sell if you aren't making a massive mark up. Otherwise break them for parts or make a real life transformer out of the lot of them!

Thats a good find but its nearly the cost of the Eezibleed kit at ~£18. A good g-clamp can be bought for a tenner, or modifying an existing cap as suggested would surely cost less.

Yes would have thought that would work, just in my case a g-clamp was far easier and less time consuming. Its just that you would have to create a very good seal around the nozzle without compromising the existing seal of the reservoir cap if you were to modify an existing cap. It is a fair bit of pressure you are introducing into the reservoir from the spare tyre. My reservoir expanded under it but that helped put more pressure on the g-clamp, hence creating a tighter seal. Both methods will work as Bignum and me have proved its all down to what suits you. Oh and I didn't know UK and JSPEC reservoirs were the same, cheers for pointing that out bignum

Yes I've used it best bit of kit for under £20 you can buy. It should come with a universal cap that 'SHOULD' fit the UK spec supra. I have a Jspec and basically it doesn't fit on my reservoir. I used a long G-Clamp to hold the cap onto the the reservoir and it worked, Bled my brakes in less than 3 mins by myself and managed to get that stubborn bit of air out of my ABS unit after failing after 3 manual bleeds using various methods, (two man engine running etc). Just remember not to over-pressurise the reservoir. Read the instructions carefully, think its no more than 20PSI. After all you don't want to explode the reservoir and put all that paint stripping fluid over your engine bay! Oh put towels around that area to protect the paintwork in case you spill any brake fluid when topping up the gunson reservoir. HTH

Welcome Probably worth applying for trader status here if you want to specialise in supras and want business from owners. Im based in sheffield and need somewhere local to get servicing and any faults repaired. Of course only after you become a trader first. The build sounds interesting looking forward to updates and pics.

Nope entirely the councils fault. The contractors would have followed a scale drawing (architects or estimators) as any deviations would be their own fault and they would be liable for any costs, so even if the drawing was wrong they couldn't be held to account if they followed it to the letter. No doubt because it was a price job they would have carried on erecting the fence even through the goalpost to get the job done and to be paid. The council would have been at fault for not properly surveying the area first before drawing up the plans, so many armchair officials who won't leave the office and probably had the plans drawn up from the back of a napkin from a michelin star restaurant. Four years experience from doing jobs for the council has led me to conclude that half the problem is just this, not sending anyone out to properly examine jobs like these!

Boot Rubbers on the rear hatch if the sound is coming from behind or the suspension top mounts. If the sound is from the cabin its more than likely one or more of the dash panels (or something loose behind them). Try putting your hand on each panel when you hear the sound and see if its reduces or stops, if it does its the panel your hand is currently on

Just a thought but... Piston or slider pin/bolt seized? If its the slider pin its worth reconditioning it yourself if its the piston then source a decent second hand caliper or cancel christmas and and buy new from Mr T. Im currently mid way through freeing up my front Jspec caliper, but will check the sliders on the remaining calipers. To let you know new a new caliper pin/bolt is only 8 quid from Mr T (brought a set of 4 today) and the rubber dust boots (that protect the pin from dirt ingress) are around 3 quid each. Refurbing a seized pin is quite straightforward (if you can get it out without damaging it) will let you know if the pin is the problem and you intend on repairing the caliper yourself.

If you find them and they're in good nick PM me your paypal address and how much you want and I will send you some fundage. Thanks again.

3 pins and boots, not fussed about surface rust or the tiny rubber seal that goes on the bottom of the pins. As long as the pins are straight and not twisted. But the boots must have no cracks or tears in them. If you have got some let me know how much you want for them inc. postage Cheers,

After refurbing a seized caliper and trying to remove a seized slider pin I have twisted one pin and noticed the dust cover has a crack in it. I'm assuming the dust cover split allowed foreign debris into the assembly and consequently caused the pin to rust and seize. So therefore I'm after a few dust covers and pins in good condition (will keep a couple as spares) or the part numbers for new ones if you can get them from Mr T. I know this is a common problem so I'm hoping someone has been here before. Also whats best to lubricate the sliding pins to stop seizing? Copper/lithium or silicone grease? Thanks in advance.

Can't Argue with that statement! If a film was to be made of the county I think it would be called something along the lines of... 'The Flat land that Time forgot' Still best show my local patriotism, Lincs >>>> Yorkshire!!!

Agreed. Drove though it on a moonlit night about a month ago and i swear the populace were out in droves throwing rocks at the strange glowing thing in the sky. Could be worse though, Gainsborough (Lincs..) is a place that even 'Time' avoids, based on the what I've seen there over the last 20 years, or lack of......

Yeah some roads especially in and around the city centre are shocking. Unless you are born in sheffield not many people have love for it. Probably due to its high numbers of deprived areas. I used to find it interesting, but the outer suburbs and towns and villages that surround it are much better.

Like I said it would be Broomhill Crosspool and Crookes you were heading to if its an S10 postcode. The actual area of Norton near the Norton pub quite close to the A61 Sheffield to Chesterfield Bypass and Woodseats and lowedges isn't that close to either of the two Uni's a bit over 4 miles I think. Im not doubting the S10 postcode its just that you said Norton. That area if you google it will confirm what I've already said.

Norton isn't the best area which is good because that isn't a S10 postcode and no where near any of the two Uni's. The S10 postcode comprises mainly Crookes and Broomhill which is a nice area and is close to sheffield university. Not having a go but don't want the op wasting his time looking up houses in Norton if thinks its close to a university. The Norton Pub however is nice but I digress, being an ex-student I do know a lot of pubs in sheffield!

All roads that take you 'out of sheffield' are good roads Yeah I could show you about drop me a PM nearer July, plenty of decent roads leading out from dore towards castleton and the infamous snake pass isn't too far away either, good bikers road with lots of twisties and sheer 200ft drops. Seriously your best bet when viewing houses is to ignore the estate agent and speak to the neighbours of the property you're viewing. Otherwise go to the nearest pub (get the missus to drive obviously ) and ask the locals about the area over a pint or two.

As for the Supra servicing I do all minor work myself (Fluids, Brakes, basic niggles and some cosmetic and aftermarket modifications eg. Hecklers LED conversion). Major servicing I take mine to Ebony and Ivory Motors in Scunthorpe (where I bought my Supra from) its about 60 miles from Sheffield, so if you know a good place in Notts. it may be worth just taking it there as its closer to Sheffield, unless someone else can recommend a decent nearer garage.

Hi I've lived in sheffield for 9 years now sort of settled here after doing my degree at sheffield hallam university. Buying may be beneficial as you can buy to let once you have moved out after 4 years if the market hasn't recovered well enough to sell at a decent profit, plenty of demand for renting (I have rented for 8 years in many different areas of sheffield). Area to avoid; Pittsmoor Burngreave Attercliffe Shiregreen Parsons Cross Southey Green Foxhill etc etc etc etc etc Its easier to list the best areas and its a much shorter list. Dore (expensive but near the peak district only 5 miles from town centre) Netheredge (but only the areas close to ecclesall road) Ecclesall Rd Totley (Area nearest to Dore) Walkley Crookes Broomhill Basically look at postcodes S10, S11 (most of S7) for the best areas. Avoid at all costs S2 and (99% of S1). City type apartments may be your best bet for rental unless you like rural quiet areas then Dore and Totley and Netheredge are your best bet. The bad areas I found out though my early years working on council houses and my god some of those are rough 3 murders in 3 weeks including a baby in an area called upperthorpe a few years back. Any other questions just ask.

Can you let me know when you post out the Passenger door latch (didn't know if you got/read my PM) Cheers

Sod it I will take it, same offer as you were doing for Rays the Roof £10 posted ok? If so PM your Paypal addy and I will send you funds tomorrow. Cheers

Hey just thought I would bump this in case you have forgotten. I am still interested in the passenger latch if you can get a pic up. Cheers,

Methinks the resident boffin needs to go back to school, maybe he got confused over series and parallel battery systems. Two or more batteries (of the same brand, size, Ah and voltage) will be cumulative in current if wired in PARALLEL. Voltage would be the that of an individual battery ie. 12V If wired in SERIES then the voltage will be cumulative of the stated potential differences (depending on the internal resistance of each battery and other factors) and the maximum current draw would be the rated Ah of an individual battery. I hold a degree in Electronic Engineering and I'm an Electrician (Domestic but have done Automotive) in case you may like some credentials to back up my statement.