kjgreen3

To me bees' look a lot like wasps/hornets, simple mistake commonly made £40 and your bees...... I mean wasps dissapear!

Really bees protected, seriously!?!?!?!? ........ God damn human,... animal.... and insect rights. By removing them 'gjp' you mean unharmed? Surely that's a costly and painstaking process. Move this to members and to the OP you have a 'thumbs up' to kill em with fire if you need to.

I would suggest get in a respectable pest control comapny, ask for previous clients who will vouch for them though. Alternatively buy some fly/bee/wasp/killer spray, puncture the side of it with a drawing pin, pull the pin out, open loft hatch chuck in and replace loft hatch. The spray will kill most, if not all currently residing bees. However professional companies use much more effective nerve agents and will remove most of the dead insects for you, that is if your loft is used much. I have plenty of experience being in lofts with my profession. The last loft I visited had 5 wasp nests!! luckily none were active although the biggest was the size of a beach ball.

I have rented 8 different properties in the last 11 years. Whilst not spotless during my tenancy the day of moving out I have left the properties as good or better than the state I have found it, including my current one. Although the living room contains 3 sets of racking (an unfortunate consequence of not having a basement or garage and being an electrician - need storage for materials!) I have free of charge re-tiled the shower cubicle and cleaned and re-sealed it as it was not done when I moved in (I know it is the landlords responsibilty but tbh it would have been less hassle and time to do it myself). The quality of tenant depends upon the quality of the selection process and more importantly the deposit! 2- 3 months in advance will insure a decent state of the property upon tenants leave. Also no pets, people on benefits and young students. Young professionals may be ok as they might have learnt how to operate the vacuum cleaner! I hope all the carpets and furniture are of a dark colour - no whites! It may be practical to invest in some throws or furniture covers of some sort as they are easily machine washable.

Do you like fish sticks?

I feel sorry for all the ligitimate owners of lithium mines trying to send money to the uk, this scam is really going to mess with their operations.

"I like you sully, I will kill you last" or "Let off some steam Bennett"

I would love to keep my TT for as long as I can, But realistically when super unleaded hits about £1.50 a litre it would be too costly to keep. So expect a for sale thread from me in about 6 weeks! However if funds dictated I would swap her for a replica cobra 427 (or buy and build one in kit form).

If the hole is either 20mm or 25mm you can use electrical blind grommits (they come in those sizes) good for 1mm to 2.5mm thick material. As I remember there are two types. Rubber (dull colour) or plastic (shiny black finish). You could probably spray it to colour match your car before installing if your car isn't black. All good electrical wholesalers stock them. Worth it if its just a temporary fix like you have stated.

Yes you are miles off......... its the ConLib government , However its the human rights aspect that have given these monsters in the making as easy time through the judicial process. Funny how the human rights lot stay quiet in situations such as these when IMO they don't apply. Hope they have a hard time in juvenile detention and learn to be better people in the future and also maybe in time the victim can move on with her life.

Well if she had swallowed it she wouldn't have gotten pregnant now and this whole mess could have been swept under the carpet. Hubby none the wiser. EDIT: Oh beaten to the pun

Thanks for your reply pedrosixfour. I think I may put that to the test. Its just a shame there was no comprehensive instructions that came with my bc racing kit. I know its an easy install but to get it to perform better than stock suspension is tricky when setting it up. I have probably spent nearly 12 hours so far faffing with adjustments over 2weekends. I just want it working as best as it can before (im saving up!!) going for a full geo. My next step was to buy 3 or 4 scales and perform a 'basic' corner weight and unsprung weight measurement by placing a large timber across the scales and measuring the corner weights individually whilst maintaing the car in a level plain. I know corner weighting can be carried out by most specialist garages but its ~150 quid and I can get that done when im doing the geo if I feel like it.

Anyone?

No worries, the police in lincolnshire were ar*eholes to me many a time, lived in a small village between scunthorpe and lincoln just off the A15 up until aged 19. Must have been stopped 30 times in 2 years of driving, only the once was I actually doing anything wrong But tbh their jobs are hard, everyone above them gives them tough targets to meet whilst trapped in red tape, health and safety, paperwork, political correctness and human rights. But yes they should act with a proper professional attitude at all times as they are representing not just themselves but the force as a whole. If they cannot act like that at all times whilst on duty then I think that they should leave the profession. Then maybe my missus might be in with a chance of applying successfully!

Damn the application process is getting ridiculous, best tell the missus as she wants to become a bobby she can practise on me

Or the 0-60 time thought it was closer to 4.8 secs

Oh I no it won't be perfect until I do it professionally along with the full geo setup. Its just after getting the ride heights sorted and levelled I jacked the rear up via the diff and the off side rear wheel came off the ground by about 2 inches before the near side rear wheel came up. In my mind the near side front isn't balanced with the off side front so I thought instead of spending a day or so playing with spring preload and ride height I would see if I could balance the car using the corner weights as I bet the RF corner weight is at least 100kg more than the LF weight. I know the spring rates so I can calculate from the corner weights roughly what preload per corner then I can adjust ride height accordingly. I do not intend to track the car or do any fast street racing so this is just a temporary measure to improve ride and handling characteristics. In a month or two when I can afford it I will let the professionals sort it out properly. Just thought if anybody has had it done already to the jspec TT they might be willing to share. Thanks for your input anyway dude.

Hi, Does anyone have the corner weights (LF, LR, RF & RR) for the jspec TT, with or without driver added. Just so I can level up my car with the BC racing suspension I fitted a while back. I will be doing a full geo and corner weight adjust at some point but I need to change the rear camber arms as a couple are seized first. But with the above info I can at least make the car handle better in the mean time by adjusting spring rates. Thanks in advance.

Must be female they keep checking themselves out in the mirror . Hope you shooed them off and cleaned the mess off quite quickly as the acid in their bird muck damages paint quite quickly. Maybe install some anti bird needles on your wing mirror so they can't land there anymore or install some 'carny house of mirrors glass' so it makes them look fat the next time they check themselves out.

As above about 8:45am today between the templeborough roundabout and the next roundabout nearest bessemer way. Very nice example was going to give you the thumbs up but you were gone before the crappy vitara's electric window could wind down.

If you are willing to collect from sheffield I may be able to help. I have a set of rear jspec TT coilovers (springs still attached to damper, top mount). I haven't split them as I don't have a spring compressor, so postage would be hefty hence collection only. Done about 60,000 miles, nothing wrong with them. Only changed suspension as one rear damper was leaking and was cheaper to do all 4 corners at once so I've fitted a BC racing coilover kit instead did it a few weeks ago. Looking for £60 for both

Maybe if you are driving on a track day or towing a caravan and braking down a hill. IMO pads don't get that hot that quickly as the metal part is quite well insulated by the brake pad material. It's the discs that get very hot under strong braking, not so much the metal part of the pads. Remember this is what I did to my suzuki vitara, not exactly a 'hard braking' machine. If the OP has thrown away the original anti squeal skims and wants a cheap fix to his rattle problem then you can either use my method or the copper grease method. Both work but obviously not as good as OEM anti squeal shims.

Or use some duck tape on the back (only 1 strip thickness, dont overlap) and a little on the edge where it meets the caliper clips. As over time the copper grease can dissapear or collect brake dust. Happened to me on my suzuki. As for the supra I always use the anti-squeal shims and anti rattle springs when replacing my pads.

I have the same problems with the N reg 2.0L V6 Vitara that I have. Runs rich so im 'guessing' its the lambda sensors with mine, check yours to see if it runs rich when warm. Unlike the supra the suzukis lose power when running rich IMO. However because I've just shelled out on new suspension for the supra the vitara can wait. Please update this thread if you find what the problem is as its probably going to be the same fix necessary for mine.

How about a range rover vogue with an LPG conversion already done. V8 grunt can pull a small carribean island and with lpg conversion prices equate to 30-35mpg on petrol. Unless you're pulling an island