Project Supracharger

IIRC, new EU environmental rules forced the removal of the more effective chemicals from the Nitromors formula (and every other paint stripper, presumably).

Now why doesn't that surprise me? Is it any wonder China, India and Korea are forging ahead whilst we go further bankrupt? I think I'll pour some waste oil down the drain just to spite them

Have you seen the price of galvanizing nowadays, in the UK? Yep, the EU again.... It's now cheaper for may firms to ship bare steel assemblies to Poland and back again, and get it done over there.

The EU bureaucracy i have just had to deal with sending a race engine to Australia was horrendous.

Now why doesn't that surprise me? Is it any wonder China, India and Korea are forging ahead whilst we go further bankrupt? I think I'll pour some waste oil down the drain just to spite them

Have you seen the price of galvanizing nowadays, in the UK? Yep, the EU again.... It's now cheaper for may firms to ship bare steel assemblies to Poland and back again, and get it done over there.

 

The EU bureaucracy i have just had to deal with sending a race engine to Australia was horrendous.

Mate this country has become so "Can't do/Won't do" that we are quite literally refusing to work. I am out of a job basically because the company I work for have applied virtually any and every rule you can imagine on my project and rendered us incapable of actually operating. The Spanish however have the nouse to understand that Can't do= unemployed so Can do no matter how many corners you have to cut off = getting the job. The finished product will definitely not be as good but it will be delivered and on time not like any product you try and make in this Godforsaken country. I don't reckon that the indiginous working population will be happy until they are all to a person on benefits!!!!

This morning I had a 'chat' with the technical dept at Nitromors and after informing them I could quite happily massage this product onto my testicles, they admitted it was weaker than it's former version.

I then pointed out that Trading Standards would be very interested to learn why they are marketing a weaker product labelled as double the strength?

Then after a few coughs and stutters, a full refund and compensation has been agreed and the product is to be re-labelled without the Double Strength Lie.

Pic of bonnet after a steam clean and before stripper

Two litres of testicle ointment and a days hard graft with a gasket scraper later

After three litres and two full days of hard graft

I have given the remaining red bits a blathering in brake fluid and left it to soak for a couple of days.

Especially for Noz, not the pic he requested but one showing the present situation under the bonnet.

I don't have another car, so this one has to be a runner at the end of each days tinkering, currently several of the components are off and away for final 'technical adjustments'.

The two throttle-bodies bamboozle most of those curious enough to take a look and there are hoses and wires tied and tucked in orifices in readiness for a plug&play supercharger conversion fit.

Soda blasting is your friend.

Nice photos. Shame you didnt get the one i wanted. Its ok though. I forgive you big man :-)

Dave, (and anyone else who ever needs to sand anything, flat or curved), do yourself a favour. It'll be the best investment you ever made ;-)

http://www.restexpress.co.uk/acatalog/Mirka_Compact_Electric_Random_Orbital_Sander_-_CEROS.html

I'd suggest the 2.5mm orbit option for less vibration and finer polishing/buffing once painted. See above videos for details. No, I'm not on commission. I own one and know how good they are.

I have the 150mm, 5mm orbit and it's worth every penny. Then again, I'm a joiner and do a lot of sanding but who doesn't have a house that needs re-decorating at some point? You can buy 5 and 10mm foam pads for curved surfaces like a bonnet too.

The system 3 kit is the best value with the screw in hose and 4 boxes of discs but obviously you'll need some 800 grit or finer for the paint. The sanders make only a quiet hum depending on speed setting which is electronically controlled on the handle. Really easy to use between 4000 - 10,000rpm.

I found a bearing carrier that was almost the correct size and have had it machined to hold a stock size idler-pulley bearing and have supported it with 10mm rose joints on turn-buckles.

It's not painted because I have more pressing tasks, but the keyhole surgery was a complete success.

I am really pleased to have that niggling job well and truly off the list.

The last pic also shows the modifications to the top idler bracket in readiness to mount the larger pulley.

I have also stripped and rebuilt the hydrogen generators curing the leaks and tomorrow will fire them up.

If you ever sell this, the owners gonna be screwed if something breaks lol so much custom work its unreal.

Looking good though big man.

So how well do you know Heath, David?

Sorry my friend, but that is epic in its awfulness. I have to say it.

Single shear pick up points, ineffective load paths, no load paths at all in some planes, God, it's bloody `orrible

I thought you had settled on a drive set up, why are you changing it all now? Sorry if I have missed something, I am a bit distracted at the moment. There's a nice parallel twin SC drag bike engine in this months Race Engine Technology, or maybe it was Race Car Engineering, anyway the SC drive set up looks like it could give you some new ideas. IMHO your set up needs a totally divorced drive system, away from the auxiliary belt, as I have always said.

This is the drive set up I settled on, nothing has been changed other than making a bracket that actually works and to increase the size of the top idler giving more wrap on the supercharger pulley.

I am confident this bracket is up to the job and as I have posted before, not sure if the belt will be until it's given a whirl, if not, as I replied before, will develop a separate drive.

i have to agree with chris there mate the support on that bearing housing is no good and will deliver very little surports mounted that way as the housing needs to be fixed in a solid place, bye the looks of that the actual housing could still tilt inwards and wear that bearing in no time,

you would be better off making a solid mount for the bearing housing to keep it at a right angle to the shaft , similar to a grinding wheel folk/key just meatier i have in my mind at the mo

Unlikely as it may look, the triangulation gives support in the direction required, we'll find out soon enough if this and several other components are man enough.

Sorry, I have upset you David, I nearly killed myself in a race car, years ago, when someone (supposedly a pro builder / designer) made a radius arm mount in single shear that broke, it's a bee I have in my bonnet. I'll shut the ******* up

You haven't upset me, I've never been sure the 6-rib belt will have enough grip, but I'll wager you a pint on the bracket.

From what I've seen so far and the way the blower revved on video, I don't think the compressor screws/vanes have anything like enough inertia, (mass relative resistance to acceleration), to cause any load problems atall. Seemed to run like a dream. Ok, under pressure they'll require more power from the belt drive but a waste gate will prevent overload.

Worst case, the belt slips or breaks so buy a Kevlar or glass one like the Gates timing belt ;-)

I for one, have every faith in David's judgement.

From what I've seen so far and the way the blower revved on video, I don't think the compressor screws/vanes have anything like enough inertia, (mass relative resistance to acceleration), to cause any load problems atall. Seemed to run like a dream. Ok, under pressure they'll require more power from the belt drive but a waste gate will prevent overload.

 

Worst case, the belt slips or breaks so buy a Kevlar or glass one like the Gates timing belt ;-)

 

I for one, have every faith in David's judgement.

and morph gave a brife description of a long word in brackets after he used it so i have every faith in his faith

and morph gave a brife description of a long word in brackets after he used it so i have every faith in his faith

Cue George Michael!

David, you have always in my humble opinion been over concerned with belt slippage, from my limited experience from playing around with the M90 on mine, I believe you will not suffer any problems with this. You have ample wrap around the pulleys, again imo. I think that part of things will be fine and look forward to the results.

We''ll find out soon enough.

The final remaining odds and sods are just about under control.

It appears that the stock steel idler-pulley is not as round as it might be and is causing the tensioner to chatter, so tomorrow will order a replacement.

I need to label up all the tails ready for connection to the ECU.

The larger top idler-pulley will have to be collected from Rochester on Saturday, test fitted on Sunday and then if required chase down a longer belt on Monday.

The HHO is operational but not producing much gas and the tank is leaking, tomorrow I will fix this and fiddle about to try and tune the Pulse Width Modulators to achieve maximum output, but without any information on how to achieve this it will be a suck it and see procedure.

I have had another go at stripping the bonnet in readiness for beating, but was rained off the job.

Aiming to fix the leaky rocker cover and fit the conversion on Tuesday, then load it onto the trailer ready for an early start on Wednesday.

Not having alternative transport to allow more time to build it up is a right PITA, but I've managed to work around this so far and other than the bonnet, all should be ready for the day .

Once the conversion is all on and I have the shape to work to, I will spend Tuesday evening bashing the bulge.

I've collated and labelled the ECU tails and tidied the sensor connectors into place in the bay.

That's all of the electrickery plug&play ready, except to parallel 2 relays into the gear-change 12v momentary switches to feed a momentary 5v to the AEM ECU for retarding the ignition-timing during gear-changes.

The HHO tank-connector leak is sorted, but have discovered that to achieve maximum gas production I need a flow-meter to identify the optimum wavelength and duty-cycle for the Pulse Width Modulators.

Just found and bought one on ebay which should be here for the weekend.

I've given up with stock steel idler-pulleys as not one of the three I have is round.

So ordered a Whifbitz alloy one for the job, but was very disappointed that he charged £18 plus VAT to post it.

£21.60 to post a farting little item to a fellow Club member is extracting the urine.

Final-fitted the water/meth control valves to a plug&play position in the bay to find that I need a couple of 6mm elbows to finish the job.

Little jobs are still leaping out of the woodwork and I'm really hacked off with having to undertake these works outside during constant rain.

Another day of tinkering in the rain.

I fired up the water-meth pump and discovered that 6mm plastic pipe comes in at least 3 different diameters?

So have had to replace the pipes that were either too thick or too thin for the push-fit connectors.

I have added the relays to link the Suprastick and AEM with 5v momentary signals and the passenger foot-well is presently looking like an accident in a noodle factory, but the electrickery is finally all ready to connect.

That AEM is going to be busy.

that wireing would give me a nose bleed

The Whifbitz idler pulley has turned up.

I was charged £84, yet the invoice enclosed is for £78 and the billing information on the site is complete gobbledegook that doesn't add up to anything that makes sense of either figure and my written query re this with payment has so far been ignored.

Furthermore, the pulley is fitted with a faulty bearing that will need changing before it can be used, the cir-clip is rusty and not fully engaged, the pulley is covered in dents and scratches, the bearing seat is unfinished with a swarf edge preventing the bearing from seating correctly and it's around double the weight of the OE steel version.

The best feature of this urine poor item is that Whiffsh!ts has been printed on the back instead of the front.

I have telephoned and explained most of this and Paul has agreed to replace it, but time, tide and hub-dyno appointments wait for no man.

In a nutshell, I am remarkably underwhelmed.

Whens it going on the dyno then david? Not been on the forum much so lost track with this build! I just want to see it finished now!

Wowzers, that footwell dude, chockablock!