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Flys NA-T - Getting there.


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Thanks for the input guys. I will attack tomorrow. Funny you mention moisture in the spark wells. An earliery start after I put the intake back on, I had forgotten to attach a coolant hose o the throttle body and it leaked obviously but I got most of it out. Will check that.

Failing that the intake is coming off again and leads plugs out and checked.

I wouldn't be able to drive it to the mapping place in this state.

Raging especially after she was running really well before hand

 

The blowing has stopped and turno spins at my new idle

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Funny you mention moisture in the spark wells. An earlier start after I put the intake back on, I had forgotten to attach a coolant hose to the throttle body and it leaked obviously but I got most of it out. Will check that.

 

Sounds like that could be your problem bud.

 

Try blowing the spark plug wells out with an air line to get the water out. Or alternatively, a favoured trick of mine which works a treat is to get a 5l fuel can nozzle, tape it to the end of your hoover and then push that over the top of each spark plug in turn and suck the water out! I did it on mine ages ago and with a spray of WD40 after it cured the misfire instantly.

 

Edit - oh and can I have your gearbox please :D

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Thanks rich. The misses will hang me by my dangly bits if I use the Hoover might just try and soak it up with a rag and spray some we'd on it. I will make this the priority but doesn't explain why the car was fine for two runs then develop

 

The gearbox is half the reason for the na-t seems a shame to waste it!!

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Thanks rich. The misses will hang me by my dangly bits if I use the Hoover might just try and soak it up with a rag and spray some we'd on it. I will make this the priority but doesn't explain why the car was fine for two runs then develop

 

The gearbox is half the reason for the na-t seems a shame to waste it!!

 

As it happens mate I pressure washed my engine bay, drove 20 mins absolutely fine, parked up, came to it a few hours later and it ran like a bag of spanners. Another method with the spark plug wells is to roll up a piece of A4 paper and slot it down there, you can literally watch it soak up any water :thumbs:

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As it happens mate I pressure washed my engine bay, drove 20 mins absolutely fine, parked up, came to it a few hours later and it ran like a bag of spanners. Another method with the spark plug wells is to roll up a piece of A4 paper and slot it down there, you can literally watch it soak up any water :thumbs:

 

This, this this this this!

 

I did this too! Made my car run like a right back of nails.

Also worth checking its firing right by doing a drop test on your dizzy.

 

With the engine off, remove all the black plastic clips that hold the HT Leads on the Dizzy, then with the engine running using insulated pliers and insulated gloves, remove 1 lead at a time from the dizzy.

If you remove a lead and there is no audible change in the sound of the engine, that's the culprit cylinder!:)

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The leak in the wells could be the cause of your misfire.

 

I had the same thing. Your need to remove the intake and blow air down there to clean it all out.

 

Also the stock ECU will have a right paddy with that problem. Once everythings dry do a stock ECU reset as well. I didn't do the ECU reset, and had my car mapped. Then when I had a flat battery, ECU reset and the map was seriously all over the place.

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Guys, can thank you enough for your input and help must add gaz to the list of thanks who emailed me and helped out. I removed the intake and found tha the pooling was actually quite bad. Cylinders 3/4 standing in fluid half way up the plug, cylinders 5/6 not as bad but still standing water. So cleaned it all out with the rolled up paper method reminded me of an old steam liner :)

Also cleaned the ht leads, refitted everything and reset the ecu she now runs sweet as a nut though. Didn't get to take her out as it would mean moving the other cars out the way. But she's got about an hours driving on Thursday morning to get to the mappers.

I also plugged in the laptop to the emanage as she was sitting a 10.5 afr on start up and sitting at 11.4 when warm so I changed th lag time so she now sits at 13.5 at idle which seems better than super rich!

Again thanks guys you've saved my bacon yet again.

Pics of the 2jz steam liner image

image

image

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Thanks again guys, noz thanks buddy it's just so I can look over it on the emu and understand what is meant to be going on....ile get som vids up ASAP and a dyno report Thursday night. She got some good looks when she was out the other day just need to sort my electric seat out and we are done for this year and just going to enjoy driving her and getting to doe meetings

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

P.s I apologise for any poor spelling due to iPad predictive text

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She's on the rollers!!!! It wasvthe slowest drive ever done by a supra, even an NA!!!

Pics to come though I'm not allowed in to watch.

However a little dissapointment already as early prediction is mid 350s when I was hoping for nearer the 400 mark. We will see what happens!!

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Might have counted my chickens too early . We are getting a mids fire at 3.5 rpm under load. Scres like a bitch.

Oh and we are making a huge 200bhp :( not a happy chappy. Details to come later

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Hi guys that's me home!

Well today has been a mixed bag. I took the car to dyno tune at ripely near Nottingham, having spoken with Kevin he said he had experience with mapping nat's. Kevin and the team are a really nice bunch of guys and Kevin obviously knows what he's doing.

Right firstly he did not have the emanage software so it was a good job I took mine as a back up. But after leaving the Carr with them I was called back to operate my computer and basically input values whilst Kevin's had the car on the dyno.

We found that the greddy map sensor connections were touching meaning the values were all over the place on the map trace. So some impromptu wiring modification and all was right.

We started the run and instantly found that at load about 3500 rpm 6psi we were getting the ecu light and the sound of a misfire. Which we thought could be feeling or timing so many hours later we had a workable fuel and ignition map but still the misfire although it does rev all the way to 7k even with the misfire.

Having driven it home it would seem that I can slowly build boost to a huge 4psi past 3500 rpm all the way to 7 without any misfire but as soon as I got wot and my huge 6psi it begins and the cel and ecu light come one.

Kevin came to the conclusion it's either plugs,leads dizzy thankfully noz was on the phone and being the legend he is is sending me the ignition coil leads and other stuff to problem solve.

But anyway the car is running safely it's not the power I was hoping for but running on 4/5 cylinders at wot you can't ask for much!

So here's some pics and vid.

Oh and if you can't see the figure the final dyno was a record breaking 250 bhp possibly the slowest na-t on here!!

image

image

image

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g378/callinswood/AF5941BD-CBD7-431E-B94A-1C10142C0032-725-000000691567F661_zps7d28e371.mp4

 

You can't hear the missfire in the video due to the fan but trust me she's there

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Yea once I get noz's parts ile change one out at a time and try to identify the culprit then buy the part/parts required and go for another session somewhere that knows a little more about na-ts

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Keep faith. I spent a year on a bloody misfire. And here I am over boosting. Tuning has its problems. But when it's sorted your wet yourself with happiness.

 

First things first is swap typical ignition parts over. Did he check fuel pressure when you misfire? I'd grab a look at those spark plugs ASAP.

 

The fact that yours wouldn't even fire up with my map makes me wonder about the ecu settings or those resistors on your injectors.

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Noz he didn't check the fuel pressure from wat I saw it went on the rollers and a bit of trial and error on fuelling and ignition to get her running. I've compared my parameters to yours they are pretty much identical except for my injector lag time.

The resistors are the correct ohm for the jes to function though I may pull them and check now I have my multimeter. I did think maye the ets need a service as they ave been stood a fair few months. Look over my map dude, I've just been looking at yours vs mine mine is very random

 

Oh and your map clamp is 0.5 v lower than mine

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