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Flys NA-T - Getting there.


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BOOM!!! the crowd goes wild!!

Firstly thank you all so so much for the help especially Noz and David \p who have been at the end of the phone even on sundays!!.

So i checked the earths to the MAP and IAT all were good as these were the codes i was getting at the 3500RPM missfire.

replaced the Walbro 255 pump and checked earths etc and all were good.

So i was at a bit off a loss!! again. So i have a copy of Nozs map so i thought sod it lets get rid of my rubbish spanner map and put something in that we know works. Now i tried this when i was on the rolling road and my car would not even start but since then i have changed the injector resistors to 6.8 Ohms rather than 10ohm as per advice given here.

So after i changed the resistors i ran her with my rubbish map and to go over the history, the missfire happened so i changed out all of my ignition bits for Noz's and still the same.

So i went back to all my bits today and loaded as i said Noz's map.

The car fired up straighht away and i could hear the fuel pump running which was odd as i havent before. The car sounded better at idle and being reved.

So i took her out for a blast....she is AMAZING!!!!!!! pulls like a train even with the stock 6psi with reasonable AFRs though i couldnt keep wathcing them too much as the gauge is below the stereo oh and no missfire or error codes at 3500rpm!!!!

So ther issue all along has been :-

Poor info on fitting 10 Ohm resistors to the 7m injectors

A very poor map!!!

I know the map isnt designed for my car but its a great starting point to go from i now need to datalog the AFRs from the WB to make sure we are in the ballpark but Noz runs some crazy 14-17psi i run 6 so we should be overfuelling really!!

 

So alot learned, just need to get booked in somewhere for a decent setup and start pushing that boost up a bit and thats me for this year, going to enjoy the car and get my ass to some meets esp if there is a pub near by and buy some well deserved beers for people. I know guys knock the NA-T route and yes its hard but then you learn and have a cracking car afterwards!!!

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Great news. I told you we'd get it sorted mate!!

 

If your going to drive it around I would highly recommend letting the mrs drive it, and watching the afr's for dead spots. As the map I gave you was tweaked by myself for road driving as it was a bit lean on anything lower than 75% throttle position. I haven't messed with the timing though.

 

Get her to drive it around, watch the AFR's and use the laptop to try and spot area's where you need more or a tiny bit less fuel. I wouldn't remove a lot of fuel, it would be safer to over fuel until the dyno. But just keep an eye out for those lean spots.

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i plugged into my MTX WB gauge and datalogged whilst i was driving. The misses wont drive the car and i wouldnt let her!!! the AFRs look alright but on the lean side but only just, nothing to worry about.

Just need some good weather now and some meets!!!!

I have also noticed she isnt running as hot as she was, probably becuase she was running super lean and the old map wasnt helping much either!!!

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I'm surprised on that, as my map has less fuel than yours. It could be a combination of the timing and those resistors.

 

If it's lean at all mate I'd definitely try and tweak it. Even if its you driving and your finding the spots on the MAP with the trace function on Emanage.

 

I let my mates drive it when I'm doing tweaks. But good mates don't drive it like they stole it, and just do whatever you tell them so you can hit the right map areas.

 

I do understand not letting her drive it though. As soon as my ex got in the seat she was giving it beans straight away lol

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Congrats dude!, :thumbs: was pretty saddened for you when I read about the mapping day fail and then all this problem with the misfire, but fair play you have gone through all the hoops (and then some) and looks like you are well on the way to having corrected things!

She will be all sorted in no time now :cool: You certainly end up learning a lot more about the engine and its components the NA-T route & with members like those offering all sorts of assistance for your NA-T setup, a great crowd to be part of :)

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UPdate coming. I expected to fight an uphill battle with this one. Ile update when I get home tomorrow. I just hope this thread is a good source of information and helps others if they have similar issues. She has one more chance then she's being ripped apart

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Right, a little update. So we got her on the rollers and plugged the laptop. All seemed well and the functions all worked however the map trace didn't show on the fuelling maps, showing which cell was active though it did on the air correction map.

So thinking that wot was the problem and lean area the guys set to work, however even setting the injector duty cycle and air correction map to 100 percent she still ran lean at 3500 rpm at 7-8 psi. So the guys suggested fuel pressure being the possible problem as I have bigger jets and bigger pump. However to check this we needed to get on the ramp fit the tester and then put her back on the rollers. The guys suggested this was a bit of a waste of time when I could do this myself. We also chatted about the fact that with the setup I should really move away from the stock fpr and run something like an aeromotive adjustable/gauged fpr. So I am now armed with this piece of kit and waiting on a whiffbitz adapter to go where the stock fpr goes.once this is it I can check the pressure of the rail at datum and them with my remove gauge watch what happens as we increase rpm, I am hoping that this finds either a broken stock fpr, or shows the pressure dropping from either a rubbish pump or blockage in the filter. Fault finding is great.

I have a back up plan which involves putting my supra in my new garage and removing the engine to start again, I also want to fit a tt head gasket and play with a design for itbs I have been working on.....and before anyone starts with the itbs are pointless I had them on my Westfield, the throttle response was brilliant and the noise even more so and I don't believe anyone runs itbs with a single turbo on here...maybe . Getting the car in a larger garage than mine also allows me to clean up the engine with it out and remove some of the pointless stuff attached to the engine bay. I'm glad this isn't my daily drive....it's a labour of love

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I would say get it running right first.

 

Remove the engine won't solve the problem. As your most likely install the problem component with the new bits, and introduce NEW possible areas for problems.

 

Solve the issues first mate!

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