MattP Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Haha The noise it makes this is why its just not the same with a TT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted January 6, 2014 Author Share Posted January 6, 2014 (edited) My w58 finally died. With a loud bang it rattles badly in every gear and in neutral. It had a good run for it's money. I changed from first to second, hard. I'm yet to remove it for full analysis. Drag radials a few weeks back took it's toll I assume. I'll be collecting ab's R154 setup this weekend and piecing together what else is required (custom cross member, clutch, MAYBE lightweight flywheel but definitely a flywheel!). I'll be considering the marlin crawler upgrades for a gearbox rebuild. I've started installing my Aquamyst HSF-5 watermeth setup. I'll have the Co2 intercooler spray kit I have setup in the next coming months. I'm on the look out for a new, larger wastegate. Mine currently doesn't have the diameter to flow enough causing boost creep and a misfire. I didn't resolve this issue due to more power earlier killing my transmission. 417hp at midrange rpm would have killed it earlier, so I settled with full power at 7k. A laggy setup but saved the transmission, for much longer than I thought it would have. Now I have no reason for lag with a better box. With all of these sorted, I can attend back to Austec for a remap. And see if I can beat my value of 417hp on stock compression/block. I'm not aiming for anything other than something better than my old target, but most importantly I want power earlier. I want a better setup, rather than a better figure. Surely with a A01B diff and R154 I should be fine for a couple of nice upgrades. Maybe worth looking for some cheap 550cc injectors instead of my current 440's? I suppose now at this point, it's only compression and fuel injectors stopping me from bypassing 500hp? Edited January 6, 2014 by Noz (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berg Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Now youve got a proper box i imagine your right, fuel and compression are the only hold back for more, no excuse not to push it further now, good buy I thought you already had a 60mm wastegate on this? How much boost are you running for 417hp? Guess im glad my box is still alive, 6 months in, my bhp is reached by 6500 and max torque seems to be 5000rpm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 I'm still a little surprised my box is still in one piece, but it's smoother than ever Nice to see you making the upgrade to the R154 though, it's a conversion I've been eyeing up for a short while Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham1984 Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Good luck Noz Where have you been hiding too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luxluc Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Good luck mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve spedd Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Shame the W58 gave up. Do you need to cut and mate the props for the R154? If so let me know as I need to for my R154.... We might be able to get it cheaper if we get two done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Use a mk3 front prop section Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve spedd Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 I've got the Mkiii front but you need to mate with the mkiv rear for the diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco79 Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 You unbolt your Mkiv prop in the middle and bolt it onto the mk3 mate simples Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve spedd Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Pretty sure you need to cut and weld to get it to fit (box came off a 7m) but I'll happily be corrected.. I'll check when I'm at the garage this weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That_Supra_Guy Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Jumping on the NA-T bandwagon over the next 4 months myself, the list seems to grow everytime I look at the damn thing D: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pulley Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Great that you've got the box to take the power now mate! Just slap a TT headgasket and arp head studs In the mix mate, then you can go for more boost and not worry about det Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco79 Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Pretty sure you need to cut and weld to get it to fit (box came off a 7m) but I'll happily be corrected.. I'll check when I'm at the garage this weekend Following Craig's advice I just unbolted and rebolted the 2 halfs together and it fitted a treat when I did an R154 conversion for a member Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco79 Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 (edited) Double post Edited January 7, 2014 by Marco79 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 How much boost are you running for 417hp? Guess im glad my box is still alive, 6 months in, my bhp is reached by 6500 and max torque seems to be 5000rpm I'm at 18psi. Where have you been hiding too? New job mate. I moved out then moved home and now commute. Good luck mate. Thanks dude Great that you've got the box to take the power now mate! Just slap a TT headgasket and arp head studs In the mix mate, then you can go for more boost and not worry about det I had a TT gasket and everything! I've head studs ready too! And a bearing set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 glad to see youve located a new box!! its going to be a cracking build. Whilst your enigne is in bits can you do me a favor? Can you see what position the dizzy rotor arm is in when the timing marks are all aligned and the crank pulley points to 0?(a picture too would be ideal) stupidly took the cams out withou noting the rotor position, havent moved the dizzy itself yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 no cutting required. they mate in the middle , you need to fit the mkiv centre baring to the mk3 front section Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve spedd Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 no cutting required. they mate in the middle , you need to fit the mkiv centre baring to the mk3 front section Air you are correct. That's saved me one job!!! That's the box in, prop shaft installed and timing sorted. Now to get it mapped!! Thanks.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buster Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Glad you got your box in bud how much fun did you have mating up with the engine and doing the clutch Was a lot of swearing going on when I did mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 I've only just collected the setup. I'll be sorting other stuff and looking at a clutch flywheel combo before I get any boxes removed or installed. I'm also looking into getting mine rebuild. Whatever I go for, I want it more reliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMan Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 glad to see youve located a new box!! its going to be a cracking build. Whilst your enigne is in bits can you do me a favor? Can you see what position the dizzy rotor arm is in when the timing marks are all aligned and the crank pulley points to 0?(a picture too would be ideal) stupidly took the cams out withou noting the rotor position, havent moved the dizzy itself yet. Hey fly I've done this too, you need to point the rotor directly @ #1 lead with the engine at TDC (all marks lined up like you said) and you will need a timing gun. after that you Bridge e1 and te1 on that little box by your intake plenum with a wire or somthing and rotate your dizzy until you are firing at the 10deg BTDC. Note I had a guy belive that he had trashed his engine becuase it was running like a dog and eating fuel like mad, i checked the timing and he had set it to the TDC mark! Yes the 2jz will actually run with timing 10 degrees out! AS long as part of the rotor head is at the number one cylinder mark you should have enough adjustment in the dizzy to get it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 Any progress with this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 It's currently at the engine builders. Not sure what's being done though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 As far as I understand the tale, the head on the original engine is suspect and the crank on the new old engine is suspect so another engine is being assembled from the best bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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