Single Shopping list - I need your input

[Scott]

You never stated SRD 269's in your original post. You said you didn't want to crank the engine open. To fit 269's you need upgraded springs and retainers. That's easier done with the head off. Or you can do it with the head on but all the time this is adding £££ in parts & £££ in labour to your build. I'm gettnig proper mixed signals as to what this build actually is. I thought you just wanted to wack on a turbo setup and have a nice low (ish) cost single setup

 

I stated 264's in my original post. I just updated them to 269's today after reading a few comments on them. I didn't realise the head needed to be lifted for the cams, springs etc to be fitted. I thought removing the camcover would give appropriate access to those bits. I actually thought you did those mods without removing the head.

 

If that is not the case then I guess I'll have to add a headgasket kit to the list as well. I guess I'll just need to talk to Lee about it nearer the time.

 

I also added the valve stem seals today so maybe lifting the head would be the most straight forward idea anyway.

[Jamesy]

Because his spec he was drawing up on page one wasn't as good as yours

 

by the time this thread has finished he'll probably have a better spec than Lee

[j_jza80]

by the time this thread has finished he'll probably have a better spec than Lee

 

 

Speak to Lee about your goals, and he'll tell you what you need to get there

[Jamesy]

I stated 264's in my original post. I just updated them to 269's today after reading a few comments on them. I didn't realise the head needed to be lifted for the cams, springs etc to be fitted. I thought removing the camcover would give appropriate access to those bits. I actually thought you did those mods without removing the head.

 

If that is not the case then I guess I'll have to add a headgasket kit to the list as well. I guess I'll just need to talk to Lee about it nearer the time.

 

I also added the valve stem seals today so maybe lifting the head would be the most straight forward idea anyway.

 

 

Getting the 269 SRD cams will help you loads mate.

 

You will need uprated springs and retainers and Lee will double check they are all sitting properly (he loves that job!!!!!!) .... you will also be able to tune in the cams (if you go with the cam gears/pulleys) to get the very best out of them.

 

Lee replaced my valve stem seals while doing this part as it seemed silly not to with everything opened up.

 

Also be good to change your water pump, mine was in good condition but again while the front is off you're gonna save about 5 hrs labour if you ever needed to do it again later!!

 

But i'd just call Lee and speak to him mate as he's got so much knowledge on it all and how things workl together that it'll give you a clear idea of the best route for you!

[jevansio]

I stated 264's in my original post. I just updated them to 269's today after reading a few comments on them. I didn't realise the head needed to be lifted for the cams, springs etc to be fitted. I thought removing the camcover would give appropriate access to those bits. I actually thought you did those mods without removing the head.

 

If that is not the case then I guess I'll have to add a headgasket kit to the list as well. I guess I'll just need to talk to Lee about it nearer the time.

 

I also added the valve stem seals today so maybe lifting the head would be the most straight forward idea anyway.

Please don't take my short tone on here in offence either, I'm at work, and my visits to the site are short, I tend to say what i have to say in the shortest time possible which sometimes comes across as being a bit off.

 

You don't *have* to lift the head, but it's sounding more & more like it's be easier. You have to weigh up the cost of labour to do it all with the head on, with the cost of removing the head

[Scott]

Please don't take my short tone on here in offence either, I'm at work, and my visits to the site are short, I tend to say what i have to say in the shortest time possible which sometimes comes across as being a bit off.

 

You don't *have* to lift the head, but it's sounding more & more like it's be easier. You have to weigh up the cost of labour to do it all with the head on, with the cost of removing the head

 

 

Not to worry mate, I enjoy a constructive discussion

[Abz]

This has been said on here by someone else recently, but sometimes I think with all the power figures banded about, we forget that even a BPU Supra is extremely fast, and will dispatch pretty much any other car on the road

 

so true people on here are in another world about bhp figures..... when i read "a conservative 600-700hp for now" etc....!!! i laugh - thats quicker than almost every supercar on the road by a long way and its considered "conservative"!!

 

gotta love the supra community

 

Very true! Mines not even proper BPU and here it is against a CarreraS

 

This thread is brilliant though, some very knowledgeable members with valid points being discussed.

 

I will know this will be a good build as I know how picky Scott can be!

 

Good luck and I totally understand what you mean about the 700 bhp marker.

 

Just to keep your feet on the ground, this car has "only" 650 bhp!

 

[Ian C]

I'd be happy with a T67 running 550 to 600bhp. In fact I am There are two good reasons why I've not gone for more power in the last four years (apart from 'doing different things in my life', 'hardly driving it these days', and '9 bloody points').

 

One, it'll chirp the tyres in 3rd up to 90mph. Probably don't really need more wellie than that.

Two, it's reliable and solid and has been for years, track days, TOTB's, top speed runs, and general driving.

 

If I wanted more power I'd have to:

• Double up fuel pumps and rejig the fuel system
  
• Fit bigger injectors and/or up static pressure
  
• Remap the whole thing due to the fuelling change
  
• See if the clutch survived the power hike
  
• Mess about with bigger wheels or more expensive tyres to hook up better (Pirelli P0's at the moment, 265s)
  
• Roll the arches or somesuch nonsense to make the bigger wheels fit
  
• Maybe fit phatter cams and have to a) remap for them as well and b) mess about with the valvetrain
  
• Wait for something to give up the ghost and let go
  

 

It's a lot of effort and expense to hike up 50 to 100 bhp and put it down. And it's not like the car is slow at the moment, thanks

 

You can get a relatively simple setup that'll see you 550bhp+ and that'll be drop in cams, single fuel pump, stock fuel rail etc, UK brakes, only the clutch pressure plate needs uprating, etc etc.. And it'll be fast. And noisy

 

Depends what you want really.

 

-Ian

[Bailey.]

Good advice that man!!!

[Swampy442]

so true people on here are in another world about bhp figures..... when i read "a conservative 600-700hp for now" etc....!!! i laugh - thats quicker than almost every supercar on the road by a long way and its considered "conservative"!!

 

gotta love the supra community

 

Lol Ive said the same, its mad that people say theyre only looking for 600hp

[Jamesy]

I'd be happy with a T67 running 550 to 600bhp. In fact I am There are two good reasons why I've not gone for more power in the last four years (apart from 'doing different things in my life', 'hardly driving it these days', and '9 bloody points').

 

One, it'll chirp the tyres in 3rd up to 90mph. Probably don't really need more wellie than that.

Two, it's reliable and solid and has been for years, track days, TOTB's, top speed runs, and general driving.

 

If I wanted more power I'd have to:

• Double up fuel pumps and rejig the fuel system
  
• Fit bigger injectors and/or up static pressure
  
• Remap the whole thing due to the fuelling change
  
• See if the clutch survived the power hike
  
• Mess about with bigger wheels or more expensive tyres to hook up better (Pirelli P0's at the moment, 265s)
  
• Roll the arches or somesuch nonsense to make the bigger wheels fit
  
• Maybe fit phatter cams and have to a) remap for them as well and b) mess about with the valvetrain
  
• Wait for something to give up the ghost and let go
  

 

It's a lot of effort and expense to hike up 50 to 100 bhp and put it down. And it's not like the car is slow at the moment, thanks

 

You can get a relatively simple setup that'll see you 550bhp+ and that'll be drop in cams, single fuel pump, stock fuel rail etc, UK brakes, only the clutch pressure plate needs uprating, etc etc.. And it'll be fast. And noisy

 

Depends what you want really.

 

-Ian

 

Great post and advice. Kinda wish id read all that before starting my single build and id prob not be so ridiculously skint now

[j_jza80]

We regularly hear about the Supras potential for tuning. Typing 'Supra' or '2JZ' into Google will reveal hundreds of 2JZ based builds that run X horsepower, and attached to which are often comments about how you can reliably run a 2JZ to 1000hp by bolting on an Ebay turbo kit for $2k, or how someone knows someone running 900whp. We all know to take this with a pinch of salt, and that while possible, it is an expensive game.

 

IMO the best quality of the Supra platform is that you can take it to circa 500-600hp and it can be just as reliable as stock, so long as it is maintained correctly. All without having to build the engine or transmission up (except the clutch), with much of the stock fuel system in place. All this with relatively inexpensive running costs.

 

You could easily buy a Supra and build it to this spec for £18k all in. What other car even comes close for this budget? You couldn't build a GTR with anywhere near that power for close to £18k, and even if you could, the running costs of those can be much higher.

 

While I love many of the big power builds on here and the rest of the net, I'm always more impressed with builds that are done on a relatively modest budget, where alot of enthusiasm, thought and experienced input/opinion result in a brilliant car

[Bailey.]

Jamesy I would rather be ridiculously skint and stupidly fast than quite well off and and slow!!! ;-)

[Chris Wilson]

I'd be happy with a T67 running 550 to 600bhp. In fact I am

Good advice cut.

 

Really excellent post Ian, and very sensible advice. I don't know why but when looking for some Motec stuff on You Tube I clicked a few links to US Supras with massive horsepower. The dyno runs and engine loadings were taking all of 4 or 5 seconds. No wonder these engines often go bang in a spectacular way when used in the real world. A proper dyno run involves stabilising an engine at it's load point for maybe 10 seconds or more, not just a quick dash through the revs to get a flash power reading. Temps won't have even begun to stabilise and it would be impossible to create a map of any worth for when the car is held at WOT for any length of time at all. i see huge HP cars talked of blowing up every year on the way back from a drag meeting. The engine will survive 10 seconds on the drag strip, it will fail on a WOT run up the M4 for 1 mile. Thees cars often seemed to have pretty normal rads, too. Don't people understand thermal loadings? The heat rejection needs of a genuine 1000 BHP engine are HUGE. It was the biggest issue Bugatti had with the Veyron, that alongside finding a transmission that was both torque capable and quiet. 700 BHP is a serious amount of power, and a huge amount of waste heat to handle.

Edited November 24, 2010 by Chris Wilson (see edit history)

[Abz]

Good advice cut.

 

Really excellent post Ian, and very sensible advice. I don't know why but when looking for some Motec stuff on You Tube I clicked a few links to US Supras with massive horsepower. The dyno runs and engine loadings were taking all of 4 or 5 seconds. No wonder these engines often go bang in a spectacular way when used in the real world. A proper dyno run involves stabilising an engine at it's load point for maybe 10 seconds or more, not just a quick dash through the revs to get a flash power reading. Temps won't have even begun to stabilise and it would be impossible to create a map of any worth for when the car is held at WOT for any length of time at all. i see huge HP cars talked of blowing up every year on the way back from a drag meeting. The engine will survive 10 seconds on the drag strip, it will fail on a WOT run up the M4 for 1 mile. Thees cars often seemed to have pretty normal rads, too. Don't people understand thermal loadings? The heat rejection needs of a genuine 1000 BHP engine are HUGE. It was the biggest issue Bugatti had with the Veyron, that alongside finding a transmission that was both torque capable and quiet. 700 BHP is a serious amount of power, and a huge amount of waste heat to handle.

Good points Chris, I believe the Veyron has 8 radiators? And the latest Super Sport has 10!

[Scott]

Bumping this up as I have actually made a start:

 

Already Installed:

 

FMIC

Boost Gauge

AFR Gauge

EGT Gauge

Fresh Oil Pump

Fresh Water Pump

Fresh Front Crank Seal

RSR GTII Exhaust system

HKS SSQV 2

 

 

On order:

 

Manifold - Boostlogic, Wrapped and coated

Downpipe - 4" Boostlogic

Midpipe - 4" Boostlogic

Oil feed & return lines

Cams - GSC Stage1 269/269

Injectors - Bosch 900cc High Impedance

Fuel Rail - FIC Twin Feed

Wastegate - 44mm Tial

 

 

Shopping list:

 

Turbo - Precision 6765 DBB with Antisurge & Ported Shroud

ECU - Syvecs with boost control & Trac control setup

Clutch - Southbend OFE Series Stage 3 (750ft.lbs)

FPR - Not really sure what to get?

Fuel Pump - Bosch 044 with in-tank kit

Fuel Lines - Fuel lines to split from FPR to dual rail.

Filter - I want to use my ARC induction kit, is this possible?

BOV - HKS Weld On Flange for current BOV

Springs & Retainers - Either Brian Crower or GSC singles (7200RPM rev limit, just a little cushion)

IC Routing - Various silicone bends & 3" pipes?

Rear Crank Seal - OEM

Cam Seals - OEM

Stem seals - OEM

Service - Colder Grade Spark Plugs, Oil, Coolant, filters, the usual.

Gauges - Oil Pressure & oil temp gauge

Oil Cooling - 19 Row Oil Cooler, Filter Relocation Kit, sandwich plate

Misc - Exhaust Manifold Gasket, Exhaust Gaskets, nuts, bolts etc

Fitting - Lee P

Mapping - Ryan G

 

 

Things I'm thinking about:

 

Radiator - Depending on the state of my current one, new OEM fat rad

Fans - Thinking about the twin kit that Paul does, other than access are there other advantages?

 

 

 

Thoughts, observations and opinions greately recieved

[Bailey.]

Bumping this up as I have actually made a start:

 

Already Installed:

 

FMIC

Boost Gauge

AFR Gauge

EGT Gauge

Fresh Oil Pump

Fresh Water Pump

Fresh Front Crank Seal

RSR GTII Exhaust system

HKS SSQV 2

 

 

On order:

 

Manifold - Boostlogic, Wrapped and coated

Downpipe - 4" Boostlogic

Midpipe - 4" Boostlogic

Oil feed & return lines

Cams - GSC Stage1 269/269

Injectors - Bosch 900cc High Impedance

Fuel Rail - FIC Twin Feed

Wastegate - 44mm Tial

 

 

Shopping list:

 

Turbo - Precision 6765 DBB with Antisurge & Ported Shroud

ECU - Syvecs with boost control & Trac control setup

Clutch - Southbend OFE Series Stage 3 (750ft.lbs)

FPR - Not really sure what to get?

Fuel Pump - Bosch 044 with in-tank kit

Fuel Lines - Fuel lines to split from FPR to dual rail.

Filter - I want to use my ARC induction kit, is this possible?

BOV - HKS Weld On Flange for current BOV

Springs & Retainers - Either Brian Crower or GSC singles (7200RPM rev limit, just a little cushion)

IC Routing - Various silicone bends & 3" pipes?

Rear Crank Seal - OEM

Cam Seals - OEM

Stem seals - OEM

Service - Colder Grade Spark Plugs, Oil, Coolant, filters, the usual.

Gauges - Oil Pressure & oil temp gauge

Oil Cooling - 19 Row Oil Cooler, Filter Relocation Kit, sandwich plate

Misc - Exhaust Manifold Gasket, Exhaust Gaskets, nuts, bolts etc

Fitting - Lee P

Mapping - Ryan G

 

 

Things I'm thinking about:

 

Radiator - Depending on the state of my current one, new OEM fat rad

Fans - Thinking about the twin kit that Paul does, other than access are there other advantages?

 

 

 

Thoughts, observations and opinions greately recieved

 

thats a good spec dude, didnt realise you bought the cams and injectors too. slippery slope from here,,,,,

oh, crank pulley? coil pack clips? tensioner bracket? catch tank?

Edited January 9, 2011 by Bailey. (see edit history)

[Scott]

thats a good spec dude, didnt realise you bought the cams and injectors too. slippery slope from here,,,,,

oh, crank pulley?coil pack clips?tensioner bracket?

 

 

Would have been rude not to at that price

[JamieP]

You wont go wrong with an aeromotive FPR.

 

Id not bother with the southbend, i hear of to many people having problems with them.

 

What size is the outlet on the ARC induction kit?

 

Id go Supertech springs and retainers, great value for money and well proven.

 

Lee does a nice kenlowe fan kit, have them on mine.

[Homer]

A few things to throw out there..

 

FPR - Aeromotive unless you want to spend big money on a motorsport spec Bosch. The aeromotive is tried and tested.

 

Clutch - good choice, but beware that you may have to do a slave cylinder mod if it's using a reground pressure plate, best to check with SB on that. Some people have had problems with the bite point on them

 

Oil filter relocation - Uneeded conveinence? These kits always tend to cause more problems than they solve (and it's not such a problem in the first place)

 

Air filter - The ARC box will be too restrictive unfortunately, it has been tried before. AEM or K&N big filter kits with a custom airbox will be a better option. It's a 3inch inlet

 

RSR exhaust - You won't like this, but this will likely caused a restriction issues at very high load. It's very free flowing, but with a 4inch kit from the turbo you really shouldn't put a restriction that far back in the system

 

Springs and retainers - Really needed? The VVTi lump revs to 7200 on the stock springs, if they are good enough for Toyota..?

 

Dual fans - Really needed? If using a stock fat rad the cooling should be fine unless you are planning extremely hard use on the track. Cheaper and easier to stick to the stock viscous and duct the IC and rad correctly.

[Scott]

You wont go wrong with an aeromotive FPR.

 

Id not bother with the southbend, i hear of to many people having problems with them.

 

What size is the outlet on the ARC induction kit?

 

Id go Supertech springs and retainers, great value for money and well proven.

 

Lee does a nice kenlowe fan kit, have them on mine.

 

 

Damn, I thought the southbends were well thought of. I definitely don't want an RPS. What other options do I have under 1k?

 

Aeromotive sounds good, will that come as a kit or will I need fittings etc to go with it?

 

Not sure on the ARC outlet, I think it's 3" but I will happily weld on a 4" tube

 

Supertech sound fine, similar price to the GSC's (I only thought of them because of the cams)

[JamieP]

 

Springs and retainers - Really needed? The VVTi lump revs to 7200 on the stock springs, if they are good enough for Toyota..?

 

GSC recommend spring upgrade with the 269/269 stage 1 cams.

[Homer]

GSC recommend spring upgrade with the 269/269 stage 1 cams.

 

Fair point

[Kirk]

Some people have had problems with the bite point on them

 

But not all, when rob wild had his single i had a feel of the clutch and it felt good to me with a nice bite point.

 

Dual fans - Really needed? If using a stock fat rad the cooling should be fine unless you are planning extremely hard use on the track. Cheaper and easier to stick to the stock viscous and duct the IC and rad correctly.

 

 

Even with hard use you wont go wrong with the stock fatty and viscous setup.

[Scott]

A few things to throw out there..

 

FPR - Aeromotive unless you want to spend big money on a motorsport spec Bosch. The aeromotive is tried and tested.

Clutch - good choice, but beware that you may have to do a slave cylinder mod if it's using a reground pressure plate, best to check with SB on that. Some people have had problems with the bite point on them

Oil filter relocation - Uneeded conveinence? These kits always tend to cause more problems than they solve (and it's not such a problem in the first place.

Air filter - The ARC box will be too restrictive unfortunately, it has been tried before. AEM or K&N big filter kits with a custom airbox will be a better option.

RSR exhaust - You won't like this, but this will likely caused a restriction issues at very high load. It's very free flowing, but with a 4inch kit from the turbo you really shouldn't put a restriction that far back in the system

Springs and retainers - Really needed? The VVTi lump revs to 7200 on the stock springs, if they are good enough for Toyota..?

 

2 votes for the Aeromotive, that’ll do me

Not really sure on other Clutch options. I’ve asked MVP for some quotes/information on my options.

 

I don’t really need the relocation on the filter, it just seems to be the done thing with the oil coolers? Can get a 19 row cooler with sandwich plate/relocation kit for around £200. Should an oil cooler be high up my list?

 

I’m hoping that by opening up the outlet of the ARC box to 4” should help a lot. The filter itself is magic. I’m getting JP’s induction setup anyway so shouldn’t be too much hassle if I need to swap over

 

I realise the RSR will be a restriction, and to be honest I am a bit gutted as I love it but I’m willing to take the hit on having to map it twice just to suck it and see. If it’s going to cost me 100hp… it’s going… if it’s only in the 10-20 bracket then it can stay

 

No idea on the springs retainers. On lots of threads I read that the limit shouldn’t be raised for fear of massive explosion. The only way to do it safely is to build the head with springs/retainers etc etc. I would like to replace them with stock anyway, just to be on the safe side, thought if there wasn’t much difference in cost I might as well go a little stiffer?