Dnk

You don't oil rad caps.

Should machine polish fine from anything finer than 1200 paper. A mate at his body shop could possibly do them if you haven't got the mop and cutting paste, i guess £10 each would probably do it

OE rad is over £300 i think plus its not bling, there's your answer to why people by aluminium ones

Get it back on the dyno and go to 1.2 bar and see, if it makes around 400 then you have your answer Or get it next to a stock tt on the rd and it should leave it for dead if its got nearly 200 hp more

I thought the only difference from a turbo to a supercharger was that the turbo needs to spool up where as the supercharger doesn't. For any given boost pressure from either you will get the same hp figure just delivered differently or have i got it wrong. So 11 psi or just under 0.8 bar is 320 hp which is what a stock tt puts out as near as damn it at the same boost pressure. My guess would be if you crank up your boost pressure to 1.2 bar you'll be near 400 hp. It would be interesting to see if this is the case then the maths would appear to be easy on what you need to do to make 500 hp I am just going by jo bloggs engineering here so just my take on it with zero investigation

guys and good to see members helping each other out

Yes mate, the uk calipers front and rear have opposed pistons that squeeze the pads together The j specs have a sliding carrier set up with the pistons being on one side Have a read through the pdf file on the brakes If you look at page BR-28 you have the 2 piston sliding carrier type known as j specs, on BR-48 is the 1 piston rear. If you look on page BR-36 you have the 4 piston caliper known as UK spec, this is the same as the rear UK spec but with just 2 opposed pistons on BR-54 BR.pdf

It would be much better to fit the complete UK 4 piston 2 piston system, these dont have sliding calipers so there's less to seize up, old j specs are not worth messing with in my opinion.

Goodridge do a kit for the mkiv or give CW a call or the traders on here. Approx £60 or there abouts Be a good idea to change your brake fluid at the same time as well, Motul RBF600 or RBF660 is very good and you buy it in half litre bottles

Needs to be flatted back with a block and 1200 paper then possibly re laquered unless theres enough laquer on it to flat it out. If theres enough depth of laquer you can then just polish it after flatting

These are powder coated Your powder coaters need to know what their doing with calipers as the threads and piston bores need to be carefully masked. Once the calipers are pre heated and the powder coat has been applied you need to remove the masking and then pop them back in the oven to bake. This is very tricky and fiddly to do as you can't touch the caliper

Did you strip the two halves apart ? I've done a few full caliper rebuilds and you have to be very careful shot blasting or media blasting as the grit gets stuck where the internal o ring seals are that link the two halves. Arrowed in blue Unless you take them apart its very hard to get it out if not impossible, i tried with the last set i did and even washing through with brake cleaner and compressed air the area by the o ring was full of grit.

Save you a xmas pressie i guess

I'd still try brake cleaner on the outside and a tooth brush

Thanks for the pointers guys. As always with couriers it appears to be a lottery.

I'm sorry to say it but they can't sit perfectly as their not the right size 18 x 10 front and rear ? 295 is too big, plain and simple for the reasons i previously mentioned. This is just like the stretched tyre argument and pretty much a waste of time commenting or giving advice

Thanks for that but they don't list send wheels just normal boxed up stuff. Have you used them to send wheels with tyres on ?

Not massively but they will move about on the rim more by simply being too big for the rim, they will also not have the correct shape once inflated. A bit like going to small, the tyre can't possibly be in its designed inflated shape and i mean in its cross section not how round it is

Yep a 235 or 245 would be better on a 8.5" wheel. This calculator will show the difference in overall wheel/tyre diameters from stock to your new set up http://www.etyres.co.uk/tyre-size-calculator.htm

265 or 275 on a 10" rim is the optimal size, 295 really should be on an 11" rim

Has anyone shipped wheels with tyres on to Europe ? Or can anyone recommend a company to do this. Thanks

I can nail my 400 hp auto tt and it just grips and goes even in this cold weather as long as the rds dry and no frost ice etc I can't see how you spin the rears in 5th to be honest unless your driving on a very low grip surface or there is something wrong with either the tyres or set up on the car. Problems at 20mph seem to imply that something is wrong with the geometry/tyres etc I'd get it booked in some where to check the geo, a lot of places will do a check for a small fee or even free. I just had my landcruiser checked at a Formula one Autocenter with the supertrack system for free. It had just been set up on another system earlier in the day and wasn't right so its worth checking yours

There isn't a gasket on the sump, just a sealer which is a pain to get off