Dnk

Google http://www.wheelbasealloys.com/alloy-wheels/dare

Welcome and good luck with the build

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bed-in-theory-definitions-and-procedures/brake-pad-bed-in

Sounds interesting, i guess it depends just how hot they really are. Im quite partial to a chicken madras even a vindaloo if i've had a few beers

Yep they do but not cheap 19" £420 + vat starting price but doesn't say if they're 2 or 3 piece http://www.lepsons.com

I've not priced up an NA head but doubt its any cheaper to buy, the only saving you'd have is on labour as it'll be quicker to change than a tt head. I'd bet you'd still be into the best part of a couple of grand if not more depending on the hourly rate of whoever did the job. You'd actually be better off finding another NA engine to exchange as they don't seem to fetch very much money

Perhaps the AA would like to comment in the thread ? So the AA guy sniffed the coolant and did nothing else ? Doesn't sound so great to me seeing as you have an aluminium head that if overheated can go soft and or warp. Then its scrap and a new one just to buy the bare head is over £1k

Yes i saw the sizes and thought on a stock set of 17's they were not far off perfect. 225 45 on the front and 255 40 on the rear. Its a shame the CR500's we use don't come in bigger sizes as they are really good.

Possibly these comments are what the AA are wanting to clarify ?

These could be worth a look They appear to come 17" & 18" as well, we use Avon CR500 race tyres on my sisters Alfa and they work really well in the wet or dry. http://www.avonmotorsport.com/road-legal/performance/zzr

I personally wouldn't use quick fit either and your experience says it all, if they have left them finger tight i'd be getting the geo done again.

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Go onto Halfords website and you can see which branch has whatever your looking for in stock

I'd wait and then you will cover a much wider range of torque and you can use whatever sockets you like with them

Check Whifbitz and SRD for the upper and lower rad pipes, they both sell silicon replacements and double check the stat seal before you order one

Not as far as i'm aware hence the separate price

There's a few old duffers who drive the same. I was in no hurry a few days ago so sauntered along at the speed limit much to an older guys disgust behind me who was gesturing shouting etc for me to get a move on, as we passed a row of shops, doctors surgery and infants school he decides to overtake very almost having a head on collision and narrowly missing my truck, at the next set of lights he's giving me the wanker sign and shouting all sorts of crap, this is with his wife in the car with him. Luckily the lights changed and he went on his way and i turned right, total moron with zero thought for anyone else

Just to add some fuel onto the fire regarding speed, the max limit is a limit not a target

The rubber bushes in the arms i doubt will be anything like they were 20 years ago and do make a huge difference. I changed all mine and the difference was very noticeable and mine seemed fine too and passed every mot without any problems. Change your ARB bushes etc if they are worn but they wont give you results your looking for as far as how the car drives. Thats more down to the condition of the suspension arms, geo set up, tyres, dampers & springs

Retail inc vat Seal £7.52 Stat £27.43 Cap £22.02 Hose £43.48 Hose £92.03 You got a decent deal if your £75 includes vat The hoses are the killer and your local motor factors or a silicon hose supplier would be a much cheaper way to go

Is it ducted ? if not i wouldn't worry about its performance too much

When you bled it the stat hadn't probably opened hence the heater is not blowing hot as its only got air in it. Try bleeding it for longer, run engine with rad cap off and heater off, get it up to temp and top up the rad as you go, turn heater on max hot, if its not blowing hot try raising the rpm of the engine to 2000 which will help raise the coolant temp to open the stat, when this happens the level in the rad will drop so top up and check heater is hot, job done. No need to jack up the car when doing this, i've bled up plenty of mkivs and all done on level ground, some are stubborn and need the rpm raised for a while to open the stat. For what they cost i would fit new stat and cap but i'd check the old stat just to know if it was working correctly or not.

Care to give us a clue as to where in the country it might be ?

I doubt you'd notice any difference with strut bars etc and imo a waste of money. Your biggest issue is you have an aerotop so it'll never be as good as coupe and you simply live with it. If your suspension has tired old bushes then this is what you need to replace and with a good geo set up will do more for how your car handles and feels