Dnk
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Everything posted by Dnk
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Silly wide 19's and lowered on Eibachs were fine on my car, handling was great but the ride was harder due to lower profile tyres so very little give in the sidewall. The car was set up at Center Gravity after the wheels, suspension and roll bars were fitted. My car wasn't a daily so i had no problems with it, if it's your only car and you have poor roads where you have to drive stick with 17's in stock profiles. A pic of my car lowered and on the 19" Equips, nuff said
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Easy enough to replace with copper if you have the brake pipe flaring tool, Halfords sell a kit for under £40
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I'd personally bin the 20 yr old j specs and get a nice uk set up on there, no sliding calipers to worry about then
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Before you start polishing you'll need to strip off the coating/paint that's on them and then remove any casting flash lines etc using a belt linisher, then you can start polishing. Your looking at around £80-£100 for the polishing + £15 to strip in phosphoric acid, if you use the acid dip you'll need to remove the valve on the inlet cover which means you'll need to replace the grommet it fits into.
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That's a damn sight better than nearly £700
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Preparing the car for the upcoming winther - Any precautions to be taken ?
Dnk replied to Mgrene's topic in Supra Chat
Perhaps that's not an option in the winter in parts of Denmark -
Preparing the car for the upcoming winther - Any precautions to be taken ?
Dnk replied to Mgrene's topic in Supra Chat
http://www.dry-it-out.com/dehumidifiers/car-storage?gclid=CMT3ltfgwLkCFaTLtAodxyYAkw -
Kin ell £700 to insure an NA
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Ditto
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Google search your postcode to see how high a risk it is
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No problem If you do have a go yourself it's not very nice stuff so don't get any in your eyes, its neutralised in water
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Its not worth doing it yourself for what chemical strippers charge, around £10 each tops I've seen it for sale on ebay but you'd need enough to be able to cover the whole of what you want to strip or at least half then turn it round. Parts need to soak for around 20-30 mins in commercial grade stuff that's pretty potent. It also loses its strength over time as you use it.
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Why not just fit O/E ?
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Bar the strut rod that fits on the rear all the arms, upper and lower have ball joints, the rear uppers are the most expensive Try Keron if your only changing one arm, see if he's got a second hand one in good condition.
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I must read posts a bit better, i see your trying to clean these and not harm the P/C which in that case i don't know but 100% not PP acid or brake cleaner.
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Why not contact one the clubs events organisers /moderators in green and start the ball rolling Or start a show thread with all the info to get it started, you'll need to get a move on though
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Lots of different shades of Gold powder coat, some look crap some quite nice http://www.prismaticpowders.com/powder-coating-colors/
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Phosphoric acid perhaps, same stuff removes powder coat and paint etc but you'll need to remove the valve on the intake side as it pushes into a rubber grommet which will disolve I've done a couple of pairs this way and seems to do the trick nicely
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or this
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I'm sure Josh won't mind, here's his car looking rather nice
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Taken from http://www.carbibles.com The ratio between the section width and the rim width is pretty important. If the rim width is too narrow, you pinch the tyre in and cause it to balloon more in cross-section. If the rim width is too wide, you run the risk of the tyre ripping away at high speed.
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Can i ask why ? 335's belong on 13" + width wheels All i can see happening is the tyre being out of shape because its too wide for the wheel
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I'd stick with the 275's personally
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I used brake cleaner when i did mine, i only did it as i had the intercooler and pipework off the car as i was doing other work to it.
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Jellybeans car is a TRD widebody
