Dnk

My mothers just been sick and said, who'd paint a car in that colour

Aren't you doing the boot, door shuts etc if your changing the colour ? My old shop never had that level of dust in it, extraction is the key

I'm glad he knows its potential value but sad its sat in the undergrowth un loved. Does he have any plans to get it back on the rd where it belongs ?

Didn't have any issues with mine but then i powder coated all 3 pieces in the end as i couldn't be arsed with polishing the lips.

Indeed It might not be a dog but then again it could be, at least its not been on the rd for 5 years worth of winters and salt etc A lot will depend if the owner just wants rid of it or actually knows its potential Simply to strip and sell on parts i guess the engine, box, diff, drive shafts are worth getting on for £4-5k

UK TT manual only came with a 6 speed as far as i'm aware

I would personally have them chemi stripped in phosphoric acid if there is lacquer or paint on them, this is simply washed off in water to neutralise it. After this i would have them media blasted and then get the lips polished properly by a pro polisher who at the same time as polishing them will linish out any pitting in the aluminium as long as its not too deep and powder coat the centres, if that's the look your after. I spent along time on my lips prepping them by hand which to be honest i should of just let the polisher do I would use something like tiger seal for the sealer. I did my 3 piece Equips a couple of times, once with polished lips and powder coated centres and then powder coated all Black.

Heres the pics from the thread

I'd be doing something with the headlights first

Mine lasted over 16 years and well over 100,000 miles before i replaced it with another o/e one

UK spec or 4 pot calipers don't have separate carriers

Is you rad the original ? some aftermarket rads use different caps so it would pay to check this before you buy a new cap. You can also have a simple pressure test done on the cooling system which should show if there are any leaks and shouldn't cost more than an hours labour, any proficient garage should be able to do that. Here is the cooling system pdf, page C0-18 shows the pressure test If you do decide to change the coolant it might be a good idea to also replace the thermostat unless you know its been done, again i'd use an o/e one from Toyota, (82 degrees C opening temp) i think the seal comes separate with these which you'll also need to replace CO.pdf

You possibly have a fault if your coolant is low, the rad cap is the first thing to replace unless you know its been done. use an O/E cap from Toyota. Heater matrix feed hoses are common to fail on these but can be easily replaced with either o/e hoses (expensive) or good quality silicon hoses for which there are lots of suppliers if you google it. http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk sell it and sell Samco which is one of the best A pre mixed Ethylene Glycol antifreeze is whats recommended, the system holds just under 10 litres if your thinking of changing it which again is what i'd do if you dont know how old it is or what it is Toyota sell CoolRed pre mix and discounted its approx £20 for 5 litres, do not use the Pink stuff they sell !! If you use a non pre mix don't mix it with tap water, just look at what it can do inside your kettle, you'll need distilled water if you go this route.

Top secret Give me your email address and i'll send you what i have which is pretty much all of them

Yes. Just put a loop connecting the inlet and outlet matrix feed pipes together till you replace the matrix. Page AC-24 Page AC-51 Have good diagrams of the heater matrix showing the pipes etc AC.pdf

Sorry i found a wheel that looked just like yours with plastic bolts fitted to them, just get them chemi stripped and powder coated then Cost around £200 for 4 and then keep as a good set for the winter

These are fake split rims i presume ? i'm not 100% sure but aren't the bolts in these plastic ? if they are and you have them powder coated they will melt when the wheels go in the oven. Personally if you looking for the cheapest route i'd powder coat them gloss black and get new plastic bolts to fit in them, then save you cash and buy a really nice set in the future

It'll possibly rip the chain straight out the underside of the bonnet, stay stock or fit aero catches, stock ftw

http://www.balljointboots.co.uk

Whats your email address and i'll send you all the pdf's i have which cover pretty much everything on the mkiv na & tt

Just as a heads up regarding parts i had to replace and problems i had on my uk spec a few years ago, it had done around 110k. Radiator & cap, thermostat, heater matrix, diff cooler rad, valve stem seals, cam cover seals, heater hoses, crank pulley, seizing calipers due to outer dirt seals failing, seized eccentric adjusters on lower suspension arms, main steel brake lines corrode badly up around the rear axle. shocks failed on rear, engine mounts, smic intercooler fins crumbled to bits even though it looked ok, a/c rad

With the mileage its done and age i hope you find lots of receipts for replaced parts or it could turn into a money pit rather than the bargin it first seems. All the best with it though - - - Updated - - - Who ?

Have a close look at the brakes then, if they're the originals and not been refurbed they will be on the verge if not already failing due to the outer piston dirt seals splitting or getting holes in them which will let moisture and dirt get down the side of the pistons causing them to seize. With the age and mileage on this car i'd be going over it very thoroughly and go through the bills receipts etc to see whats been changed on it over the years.

What mileage has it done ? £3250 for a straight uk tt is a bargin unless its been to the moon and back Regarding the noise i'd jack that corner up and do a few simple checks, spin the wheel and check wheel bearing for noise and play and check lower arm bushes and suspension bolts etc . Can you describe the noise ?