Dnk

No problem, happy to help having been there and had exactly this happen on my car. Is your heater still blowing out nice and hot on the max setting ?

For what they cost it would be the first thing to try, obviously check for other problems, heater matrix hoses are a common place to fail, between the engine and bulkhead, also check the footwell isnt damp as the matrix are also getting a bit prone to leaking too. Make sure you get a stock rad cap, best from Toyota at the correct bar rating

Undo the locking nut on yours and then turn the radio on which should feed yours out, its not the correct aerial mast looking at the photo in your link. Do the reverse to fit a new one but check all the nylon is intact on your old one The one royh posted above is

What rad cap is on it ? sounds very much like thats letting the pressure out the system too easily below the required running pressure hence it popped the expansion tank cap off. Unless you know its not very old i'd replace that and re fill the expansion tank to the max mark, fill up the rad and bleed out any air, if there's air in the system the coolant will boil which is pretty much what you have happening Use Ethylene glycol premix, not tap water I doubt its the water pump

Great news and way better than stretched tyres, i'm slightly surprised they don't catch on full compression though.

If i was spending this kind of money i'd be looking at cars advertised like mine or with a project thread in this club showing whats been done etc etc, taking someones word for how well a cars been looked after i couldn't do. Here's a link to my sale thread to show you what i mean, mines sold now though and i'm just using it as an example http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?275693-Black-UK-TRD-Widebody

Do not rush into buying a mkiv tt or single, lots of old unloved cars out there now that look great but alas beauty is only skin deep and its all the unseen stuff that'll will bite you in the ass.

As you go down in profile on the tyre you will make the car have a harsher ride due to there being less rubber so less give in the tyre, this could also cost you some grip but on stock suspension shouldn't be too bad, just wary especially in the wet.

If they do rub, its either roll the arches or buy new wheels in the correct offset, either way is much better than silly stretched tyres.

Great pics and a big help, is the car on stock suspension ? I think if you go up to the correct size of 255 you could well need to have the arches rolled If you fit a 255 30 19 instead of a 255 35 19 the diameter of the tyre will be 25 mm less and be the same as the stock size on 17's. It could still catch the arch though being 20mm wider than what's on now, fitting a 265 30 19 just makes the problem worse being 30mm wider and 6mm bigger in diameter

http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp http://www.etyres.co.uk/tyre-size-calculator.htm Rim width---Min tyre width----Ideal tyre width-------Max tyre width 7.0 inches-----195 mm--------205 or 215 mm-----------225 mm 7.5 inches-----205 mm--------215 or 225 mm-----------235 mm 8.0 inches-----215 mm--------225 or 235 mm-----------245 mm 8.5 inches-----225 mm--------235 or 245 mm-----------255 mm 9,0 inches-----235 mm--------245 or 255 mm-----------265 mm 9.5 inches-----245 mm--------255 or 265 mm-----------275 mm 10.0 inches----255 mm--------265 or 275 mm-----------285 mm 10.5 inches----265 mm--------275 or 285 mm-----------295 mm 11.0 inches----275 mm--------285 or 295 mm-----------305 mm 11.5 inches----285 mm--------295 or 305 mm-----------315 mm 12.0 inches----295 mm--------305 or 315 mm-----------325 mm 12.5 inches----305 mm--------315 or 325 mm-----------335 mm

The offset dictates how far out or in the edge of the rim sits away from the hub. Put a picture up of your car showing the rear wheels, rear arch's then we can give a decent guess as to what you'll get away with. A photo like this one of my car then we can see how far out your wheels are. 255 265 is the nominal size on a 9.5" wide wheel

I never had any issues with them and using stock pads and discs

I meant regarding the clattering they will take on our lovely rds, could well make the car feel very harsh too for everyday use

For a rd car i'd rather have stock o/e arms, Good quality spherical bearings aren't cheap and i doubt they'll last anything like a protected ball joint will in rd use Good for a track car though

If its not snowing i'll pop over in the beema

They have the same 12 months warranty you get on O/E parts

Toyota

I got my FMIC pipework to fit with the O/E airbox

More than likely the hoses at the back of the head that feed the heater matrix then. If your going as far as stripping the motor down it would a good call to replace all the coolant hoses with either o/e or silicon

Not if the car is the same as in his garage in his profile

Have you checked your coolant level ?

Couldn't you just get yours reconditioned

I think you've answered your own question Josh Go buy a tt is what i'd be doing, i doubt you can cure the wobbly chassis with the kits i've seen, maybe fitting a full cage would help but no ABS is like driving in the stoneage

If its original rad, matrix, hoses then that's where i'd be looking first, head gaskets are pretty good on the mkiv Run it up on the drive with the rad cap off and see if you can get the heater working, use water for now to find the leak but drain it asap and re fill with coolant