j_jza80

I would be very reluctant to go plugging cheap Chinese stuff into the diagnostic port, it can cause no end of trouble.

Presumably its MarcP's (old?) car? It had been painted a Suzuki blue I believe, which doesn't tally with the advert.

Where have the last few years gone?? As per this thread here, I had a big change of career. I went to college to study mechanics, and landed myself an apprenticeship with Volvo, which has gone pretty well and is coming to an end soon. In a very unexpected turn of events I also found myself a hopefully permanent partner, with whom I share an 8 week old son The Supra has, so far, managed to survive these events without being sold. It was replaced by a Volvo S60 for daily driver duties a few years ago (which has also just been replaced by somethingelse), and the Supra has sat, unloved, outside for that time. However, this weekend, she is finally going to recieve some much overdue love, and is going to live in a garage from now on. I'm addition to the full detail which will be required (she has been periodically washed to a basic standard), she also requires some cosmetics. She was lightly tapped on the rear quarter by a hit and run driver, which has mildly dented it, and smashed the rear quarter marker light. And both front and rear bumpers will require new paint due to some peeling. Also going to get a local garage to resurface the brake discs to remove the rust which has inevitably built up on the surface. Really looking forward to returning her to the standard with which she used to be accustomed to. I have no intention of selling her now. Future plans will likely focus on the gearbox, as the car is no longer a daily the tiptronic is no longer desirable, so I will likely look at a manual swap of some kind.

Hope you're doing better now - - - Updated - - - On the plus side, the car has been increasing in value while sat there, so its not all bad.

Unless you're seriously tracking the car, the larger factory brake setup is adequate for all level of power. Guys in the US run the 4 pot front brakes with the smaller j-spec rears on cars with well over 1000hp with no issues... Even the OEM pads are fine, though maybe consider Chris Wilson pads. A Supra with the larger brake setup set a stopping distance record for an American magazine, which wasn't bettered until they tested a Porsche Carrera GT many years later. That is a phenomenal achievement, and testament to just how good the factory setup is. It is a shame the calipers aren't a little lighter mind.

Absolutely brilliant cars, especially the 2004/2005 facelift Euro 3 P2 models.

Do yourself justice and write up a full description of the car. Looks amazing btw

My dad has one, and for want of a better term, it sounds glorious Its got a 6 branch, long runner exhaust manifold fitted, rear silencers deleted, and is on triple SU sidedraught carbs. Not an easy car to drive quickly though.

Lexus LFA. If all I.C.E engines are about to fall silent, the world deserves to hear that sound one last time

Fit a good, used NA bottom end, thicker head gasket turn the boost down, either enjoy the car as is or sell

Yep. And I know Chris wanted to avoid comparing his product with Whifbitz, but when I went single, I had to replace my Whifbitz smic with an FMIC, as it was incapable of cooling the charge air sufficiently. That was with Whifbitz installing the single turbo too. In hindsight I would have gone with a CW SMIC to start with.

Think NSX owners run this setup

Take it to a fabricator to weld an extra section onto that pipe. Introducing extra hose joints in the system is Introducing extra potential failure points, as would be bodging a universal piece of silicone pipe to join that gap.

Depends on budget, low end maybe something like a mk1 iS300? More expensive an E46 M3 if it can be a bit old, or a 435i/440i if newer

I would visually inspect the fuse. I would then check the resistance across the relay pins (switched!), and if that's okay, check the resistance of the wiring. Just because you have voltage doesn't mean there isn't a fault in the circuit somewhere, affecting amperage That said, I would imagine its a fault with the motor in the wiper mechanism, but there's no point spending money on a fix until you've reasonably exhausted checks/testing which don't cost a thing

If you want the feeling of parallel turbos, set it up as TTC (guides on here for that). You still only need one boost controller.

Presumably the ends are genuine TRD, the spoiler blade is aftermarket if its carbon?

Nice project I would also add a few bits to your shopping list: - lighter conrods - readily available on a budget from a vvti na 2JZ (From GS300 or IS300) - lightweight flywheel These will make the engine much more rev happy. - long branch tubular exhaust manifold Suited to high revving NA tuning, and the noise Have you decided how you're addressing measuring airflow? Personally I think I'd be looking into a custom plenum with a quality aftermarket AFM.

VVTi are non interference

OEM scuttle panel Good condition other than the usual greying, and turns black again with a bit of polish or wax. Would be a good candidate for using some g4 gtechnique or back to black on, boiled linseed oil, or even painting. I replaced with new a few years back, which was circa £100 4 years ago. £35 Collection from York. Will package for you for another couple of £ if you want to send a courier, but I want be responsible for any damage. Item will be packaged for another couple of £ if you want to send a courier, but I will not be held responsible for any damage.

These are the ones I used. They require a bit of trimming to the back of the wheel to make them sit flush. Once done and installed, they look factory. For such a small thing, they make a big difference to the way the car drives

I did, on my build thread. sadly Photobucket ruined it. On a tiptronic car it's easy, as all the wiring etc is already there. You can replace the steering wheel with a cheap alternative from a gen7 celica or similar vintage is200 or mr2, which deletes your factory tiptronic buttons, and swap the wiring over from your tiptronic wheel. Then you just need suitable paddles. After much research, I settled on the smaller AMG paddles as they looked OEM and worked on a 2 wire system.

It's too cheap, as traders swarmed it as soon as they saw the advert

On the 2 wire paddles the wire colours are irrelevant, as all they are doing is completing a broken circuit. I would imagine your 3 wire ones work the same way, but with a separate trigger wire going to a seperate module in the car. You will need to probe the wires on your 3 wire paddles with a multimeter to establish what does what, unless you have access to a wiring diagram for the car they are from.

Never mind