paul mac

sometimes i cant help thinking a class A drug addiction would be cheaper

good question for me i just enjoy trying to improve on what Mr T created, i realised years ago my car was nothing more than an expensive toy, it hasn't been a daily driver for years, i mod bits and think well thats that bit done but then end up modding the same part again, for example i am on my 4th set of brakes , stock, 300zx, UK spec, Mercedes AMG. For me its kinda like the Forth bridge, it will never end

you can use some grinding paste to lap the seat in if it is slightly damaged

although i can understand some of the above, a set of ARP rod bolts hardly requires an unlimited budget, from memory their around £50, i certainly would'nt go to the expense of an engine rebuild and not fit ARP throughout

i like the question someone has asked Q: the carbon fiber work looks like a 2 year old laid it. You cant be serious about the price , jesus, theres no accounting for taste is there, i'll probably see one of the local pikeys in it, what a pile of poo

great dog car mate i have an old Mitsubishi Galant estate for the dog and was looking at an upgrade but never considered the Subaru, might be worth having a look at , loose the eyebrows mate they look naff

i replaced both my rear brake pipes and ragging the existing pipes out really leaves you in no doubt getting some pre shaped Toyota pipes in would be very difficult, they are definately installed without the sub frame fitted. I bought a copper/nickel tube kit and borrowed a flaring tool off a chum, its quite a straight forward job to do, a bit fiddly but definately easier than dropping the rear subframe, the other issue with trying to force stock steel pipes in without dropping the subframe is kinking or you will probably damage the coating which leaves you open to the rusting issues again , if you use copper/nickel thats it for life, no corrosion

definately worth checking, at 0% slip and 564hp getting the rear wheels spinning should be rather easy

you have a minimum speed cut (mines 15 mph from memory) so if you are under this yes the wheels will spin

without being remotely anti N/A you could probably blank it off on an N/A but i suspect the airbox is primarily designed for the TT so would need both

certainly nothing wrong with having things as Mr T intended, you will be sucking warm/hot air from the engine bay , for what a second hand one would cost i would always have one with a stock airbox

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=51338&highlight=lock+button&page=2

i think Dudes right here mate, i can just about blag my 3200 stall into changing up by letting off the throttle but not sure this will work on a 3800, its really no big deal either way as a lock up switch is a doddle to fit IIRC its one wire on the box that needs snipping and a switch to ground, try your set up first and see how it is, i cant stress enough how important that transmission gauge is, in my car it is the most looked at gauge of all of them, i would also look at a thermostat to switch the fan on as trying to do it manually really is no good, by the time you look at the temp its usually to late and the fan should have been on about 2 minutes previous

your thinking to deep mate, she is a mentalist and apparently tries to do the old office linebacker gag on the Pope quite often

just seen this on the news, i may have had to much egg nog but this has to be the best TV comedy moment of Christmas so far, and its already on Youtube

dont know if you have it Dan but A.Graham Bells book forced induction performance tuning has a good section on this subject with some recomendations on desirable vacuum levels, i can see the obvious gains to be had at peak power but the only doubt i have with this type of set up is the lack of low speed scavenging effect which is so beneficial when using manifold vacuum, any thoughts on this

great stuff Dan, any plans to measure the vacuum that is pulled from the exhaust

the problem with covers are they will scuff the hell out of your paintwork if you allow just a millimetre of movement due to the wind, i had some bikes years ago that got badly scuffed leaving them out under covers, the other issue is if there is just the tiniest bit of grit under the cover it will scratch as the cover comes on and off and again leave a scuffed patch as the wind moves the cover, you may end up with more damage due to the cover being on that not bothering at all, imo they are really only suitable for dry storage and i apologise if this is what you intend to do

it was probably the 1000cc injectors that tipped Ian over the edge

snow mode for me is leaving the bad boy sat in his heated garage, if i had to use it as a daily driver i think i would stick 2 space savers on the back

no worries mate, i have sold a few singly and still have a few left

£30 for what mate

i think you may have a case for some good old fashioned battleship engineering here as there will be some considerable forces this bracket has to take, i think i would leave as is for now and maybe use a DTI to check for flex when under load before lightening it

how much of a hurry are you in i will have some coming off my car in the new year

i have some coil packs, £10 each delivered